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95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

Starter good, battery good, still wont start...

Old 03-26-2012, 06:40 PM
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Starter good, battery good, still wont start...

96 4runner V6 4wd wont start... first I had the battery checked, it was fine. then I had the starter checked, it tested fine, but decided to replace it anyway just to be sure. still did not work, so I put the original starter back in and got my money back.
any other ideas from here???
Old 03-27-2012, 06:49 AM
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Just had this problem with my 94... turned out 2 wires going to the back of the ecu [in right kick panel] had gone green [corroded] and shorted out which blew up the ignitor [next to the coil]. You're problem is probably similar... major PITA you [or a skilled tech] need to start checking each wire lead and device in the ignition circuit.
fwiw I'd start at the ecu lol... and work your way out... pull all the plugs and hit them with some contact cleaner... check the condition of each wire and so on...
Good luck

a little more info would be good too ie which engine/trans you have and so on more info = better answers.

Last edited by aviator; 03-27-2012 at 06:52 AM.
Old 03-27-2012, 01:28 PM
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That's a start... I'll check the wires and see if I can find anything. thanks
auto transmission btw.
Old 03-27-2012, 02:53 PM
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hmmm not sure about yotas but some makes from that time period had {I think} a safety feature where you had to step on the brake to get the ignition to work... if that was the case here maybe the switch on the brake went bad... or was that only to get it out of P... IIRC my dad's GM Safari Van you had to step on the brake to get it to start...

Last edited by aviator; 03-27-2012 at 02:54 PM.
Old 03-27-2012, 04:12 PM
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What does it do? do your headlights work? Have you check to see if you get 12 v to the starter signal wire? If you don't have 12v to the signal wire check the relay.
Old 03-27-2012, 05:03 PM
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yeah, I have 12V to the starter, checked that earlier. When I turn the ignition it just clicks a few times, but the engine never try's turning over. all the lights and auto locks, windows work but it just wont start. as far as the brake pedal for this model I'm pretty sure it will start without being pressed.
Old 03-27-2012, 05:29 PM
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So the starter just clicks? Usually if the starter is known good its an amperage issue. Or its not getting enough juice to start. I would look to make sure all your battery wires are properly connected and have a good connection. When you say 12 v to the starter are you just checking the positive wire to the starter post? Or the are you checking the signal wire that comes from the starter relay as well?
Did it just die one day? or did you buy it dead? Can you turn the motor over by hand?

Moved thread to proper area.

Last edited by vital22re; 03-27-2012 at 05:31 PM.
Old 03-27-2012, 05:51 PM
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yeah, starter just clicks. took battery out and checked it at parts store, they said it was fine, but just to be sure I tried a friends battery also. still nothing. took the starter out to get checked at the auto store, they said it was fine also, but went ahead and bought one and put it in, still no luck. returned it and replaced the original.
then checked the positive wire to the starter post, and it was at 12v... also checked the starter relay.
I started it up last week, drove about 2 min. away and parked it for about 15 min. came back out and it would'nt start, and hasn't started since.
I haven't tried turning it over by hand, how would I go about doing that??

thanks for the help so far!
Old 03-27-2012, 06:00 PM
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To turn it over by hand, you just turn the crank bolt. You said you check the starter relay, but what about where the signal wire ends at the starter? Have you checked your engine and body grounds? How do the battery cable terminals look? If the motor turns over by hand then it has to be electrical. For a while I had a bad connection at the starter so the starter would just click once when starting. I would wiggle the + wire at the batter and it would start. Sounds like whats going on here, a bad connection.
Old 03-27-2012, 06:12 PM
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I checked the cable that runs from the battery to the starter. it reads 12v at the starter. is that the signal wire you are talking about? the battery and terminals were purchased in October, about 5 months ago, so they are good. and the ground from the battery to the vehicle is on tight. I haven't checked the engine ground, do you know where that is on this model?
at this point I'm pretty sure its wiring somewhere. do you think it could be the ignition switch?
Old 03-27-2012, 06:15 PM
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I've had this happen way too many times. It always turned out to be a bad ground wire. Start at the battery and look to see if the battery acid has migrated down the copper strands of the black wire. Disconnect the ground wire to frame/engine and clean the contact with something abrasive like a wire brush or fine sandpaper and reattach with dielectric grease. Some cars have multiple grounds not only for the battery but the ECU and other devices. Its not that you aren't getting any current, you're just not getting a good connection to power the starter.

If the black battery wire is corroded, make up a pasty liquid combo of baking sode and water and slather it on the post and copper wire. Once its done fizzing, rinse it off with water. It will neutralize the acid. But once the acid works its way down under the plastic wire sheath, its time to replace the ground wire. That's one reason I love my Optima RedTop battery. Its sealed and won't leak like other batteries.

Last edited by DRCOFFEE; 03-27-2012 at 06:20 PM.
Old 03-27-2012, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by toyoforunner
I checked the cable that runs from the battery to the starter. it reads 12v at the starter. is that the signal wire you are talking about? the battery and terminals were purchased in October, about 5 months ago, so they are good. and the ground from the battery to the vehicle is on tight. I haven't checked the engine ground, do you know where that is on this model?
at this point I'm pretty sure its wiring somewhere. do you think it could be the ignition switch?
No there is a smaller gage wire, it should be a grey connector that plugs into the starter. This wire gets 12v from the starter relay and thats what kicks on the starter starter. If you don't get a full 12 v to that wire it won't start. The ground wire runs from the batter and attaches to the engine block near the front lower driver side corner. If you remove the skid plate you will see it. Is there any way you can take a video of whats going on then post it to a hosting site like photobucket? That may help us.
Old 03-27-2012, 06:44 PM
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I don't really have anything to record right now... I'm away from home for a few months. I'll check all those things you posted and let you guys know, I appreciate all the help.

any chance it's the ignition switch?
Old 01-30-2013, 09:36 PM
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did you find the problem

I just replaced my starter today because my old one just clicks but wont turn over and start my engine. Well today i drove my truck and it started up just fine. Tonight I went to move my truck and it did not start up. It started that clicking noise again. I have 12V at my starter connector and main cable from battery. I know its not my start cause i ran a jumper from battery and turn my starter. While doing that though the engine just cranks over and not start. I removed the jumper and try to start it again. no luck just clicks. I need help please!!!! I'm very exhausted!!!!!
Old 01-30-2013, 11:08 PM
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Are you sure it is the starter that clicks? Starter motor usually does not click (It "groans" trying to turn if having a hard time), but the starter solenoid that piggybacks on the starter motor does, more like "clunk"

Did you take the time to look at your schematic, understand how it's supposed to work, and check each step of the process to make sure that each component is doing what it's supposed to do?

Here's starting circuit explained

do you think it could be the ignition switch?
No, it's not. If ignition switch is bad, you would not hear the starter solenoid "click". However,
1) Solenoid plunger may be stuck so it does not move all the way to close contacts.
2) Solenoid contacts may be bad (See 4Crawler's website) so even if it actuates, contacts do not close and complete the circuit to starter windings., OR
3) If your generation's starting circuit wiring is flawed like the mid-1986* to 1988 4Runners, solenoid may no be getting enough juice (because of resistance on old ignition switch ST1 contacts) to move it all the way and close the contacts.
To date, I'm not aware if anyone in the forum has verified whether or not this flaw exists on on later gens. First gen 4Runner owners already have, and we already know how to fix it.

Originally Posted by toyoforunner
I checked the cable that runs from the battery to the starter. it reads 12v at the starter. is that the signal wire you are talking about?
Originally Posted by vital22re
No there is a smaller gage wire, it should be a grey connector that plugs into the starter. This wire gets 12v from the starter relay and that's what kicks on the starter starter.
Yes, that very thick wire from batt will always have 12V. Smaller gage wire (around 12AWG) that vital22 mentions above is wire from starter relay. When starter relay clicks that wire will carry approx 12 -15 Amps to actuate starter solenoid. Solenoid plunger will close contacts inside the solenoid that will connect 12V on that THICK wire to the starter winding.

*KidV on T4R confirms that early 86 4Runners do not have starter relay. It is still a flawed system but needs more intensive fix.
Old 04-06-2013, 07:10 PM
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89 22re wont crank, starter bench tested good/new battery

Rad4Runner you are the only way I have been able to get a idea how may amps the starter signal wire should be putting out.

I have a similar issue, I just put a new 22re in my 89 pickup and it will not crank. I have checked voltage at the starter on the Post and the signal wire and both check out at 12.5. I removed the signal wire and checked the current and it measured .21 amps, do I need to have the Signal wire connected to the starter to correctly test for amps? Electrically everything else seems to be ok, the injectors and fuel pump work while I have the ignition in the crank position.

The clutch sensor is good because if I don't press it in then zero volts get to the starter via the signal wire. My guess would be that I have a bad Signal wire at this point but would appreciate any advice you can provide.
Old 04-07-2013, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 33copper
Rad4Runner you are the only way I have been able to get a idea how may amps the starter signal wire should be putting out.

I have a similar issue, I just put a new 22re in my 89 pickup and it will not crank. I have checked voltage at the starter on the Post and the signal wire and both check out at 12.5. I removed the signal wire and checked the current and it measured .21 amps, do I need to have the Signal wire connected to the starter to correctly test for amps? Electrically everything else seems to be ok, the injectors and fuel pump work while I have the ignition in the crank position.

The clutch sensor is good because if I don't press it in then zero volts get to the starter via the signal wire. My guess would be that I have a bad Signal wire at this point but would appreciate any advice you can provide.
Hi 33copper,
By signal wire, you mean the thick (approx AWG 12) wire that plugs into the starter solenoid like in below, correct?

You can only check for current if it's connected, and the starter relay clicks.

To quickly check if your starter solenoid is working, contacts are closing and turning starter motor, I suggest you try this Special Service Tool . If this test does not work, then check parts upstream of your starter solenoid

It would be best if you followed by write-up on how cranking system works, follow the sequence of events and see what does not do what it's supposed to do.

If explanation is too much info thry this:
Try starting the truck. Listen to and feel relays for clicks as I explained.
Does Circuit-Opening Relay click
Then, starter relay should click at the same time.
When starter relay clicks, solenoid relay should also click.
When solenoid clicks, starter should turn.

Let us know what does not do what it's supposed to do, and we'll go from there.
Old 08-27-2013, 02:16 PM
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Im having the same issue. did the op find the prob. I have an 85 22re and i get the click but noithing turns over. Everything else works, lights radio.....And its totally random which is frustrating when it comes to trouble shooting. It always starts at home and does not at random places. Sometimes it wont start then I come back to it 15-20 min later and starts up. Sometimes it wont start at first then holding the key on for about 10-15 sec it suddenly starts up. Atleast im getting exercise pushing it then "popping" the clutch to start.
btw i did replace the starter last week and did not fix prob.

Last edited by bryan34w; 08-27-2013 at 02:17 PM. Reason: addition
Old 08-27-2013, 03:06 PM
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Your Problem is caused by resistance in wiring and ignition switch contacts...

Originally Posted by bryan34w
Im having the same issue. ... I have an 85 22re and i get the click but noithing turns over... its totally random...
btw i did replace the starter last week and did not fix prob.
bryan34w,
Replacing the starter will not fix this problem, because the problem is not the starter but the voltage drops upstream of it. With any luck, your problem may "disappear", but root cause is not really eliminated- it will still there waiting to bite you again. Read my write-up about cranking system flaw.
In mid-96's Toyota added the starter relay but did not wire it properly, hence the flaw. Therefore, the mid-86's and later are no better than your 85 22RE, until the flaw is fixed (see my signature).

Possible solution for yours (trucks without starter relay) could be:
  1. The "hotshot" kit. This is equivalent to adding a starter relay that is wired properly, OR
  2. Adding a starter relay yourself like KidV on tr4.org did.

Last edited by RAD4Runner; 08-27-2013 at 04:03 PM.
Old 08-27-2013, 03:54 PM
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Poorly designed circuits. I have added old ford starter solenoids to many trucks, including my own 89.

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