SS#1.1 lift
11-18-2007, 11:22 AM
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SS#1.1 lift
I should be getting my Sonoran Steel 1.1 lift in the next few days for my 1997 3.4 litre 4runner. I understand that Steve has an excellent 40 something page step by step guide for the install. What I am wondering is if there is anything that I need to know that wasn't provided either in install information or materials that someone out there has experienced. The lift should be at my house within one or two days; I can hardly wait to install it. BTW, Steve has been excellent to deal with so far, and my searches on yotatech have provided really good info., (but is there more I need to know?) Looking forward to your replys.
Cheers,
Denny
Cheers,
Denny
11-18-2007, 11:45 AM
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check the nuts on the top of all the shocks, i believe steve has corrected this issue, but just make sure.
for the skid mod, im using about 5 fender washers and longer m8 bolts right now because i couldnt manage to clearance enough to get it back in with stock bolts.
not sure how rusty your vehicle is, but soak everything in PB blaster for a week prior, go out every day and put some on each bolt, this will really help. i had no rust but still did it the day before and everything went smoothly.
when i did mine i had to reuse the bushings and washers from the stock shocks. i assume its the same way. pay attention to order of parts (bolt, item, washer, nut kinda stuff)
you will have to bleed the brakes after opening up the rear brake line and installing the longer flex line.
rent some good spring compressors from an auto parts store for the front struts. i got mine at autozone. i eventually bought some from sears for about $50. if you are afraid (i see no reason to be if you use the right tools) you can take them to a shop to be assembled. pay attention to the alignment of the bottom eye to the top plate's two bolts that are perpendicular to the frame. think long and hard about that alignment to get it correct! it took me a few tries, even the second time i took them apart.
other than that, its a pretty easy install. hope i didnt scare you
for the skid mod, im using about 5 fender washers and longer m8 bolts right now because i couldnt manage to clearance enough to get it back in with stock bolts.
not sure how rusty your vehicle is, but soak everything in PB blaster for a week prior, go out every day and put some on each bolt, this will really help. i had no rust but still did it the day before and everything went smoothly.
when i did mine i had to reuse the bushings and washers from the stock shocks. i assume its the same way. pay attention to order of parts (bolt, item, washer, nut kinda stuff)
you will have to bleed the brakes after opening up the rear brake line and installing the longer flex line.
rent some good spring compressors from an auto parts store for the front struts. i got mine at autozone. i eventually bought some from sears for about $50. if you are afraid (i see no reason to be if you use the right tools) you can take them to a shop to be assembled. pay attention to the alignment of the bottom eye to the top plate's two bolts that are perpendicular to the frame. think long and hard about that alignment to get it correct! it took me a few tries, even the second time i took them apart.
other than that, its a pretty easy install. hope i didnt scare you
11-18-2007, 02:10 PM
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check the nuts on the top of all the shocks, i believe steve has corrected this issue, but just make sure.
for the skid mod, im using about 5 fender washers and longer m8 bolts right now because i couldnt manage to clearance enough to get it back in with stock bolts.
not sure how rusty your vehicle is, but soak everything in PB blaster for a week prior, go out every day and put some on each bolt, this will really help. i had no rust but still did it the day before and everything went smoothly.
when i did mine i had to reuse the bushings and washers from the stock shocks. i assume its the same way. pay attention to order of parts (bolt, item, washer, nut kinda stuff)
you will have to bleed the brakes after opening up the rear brake line and installing the longer flex line.
rent some good spring compressors from an auto parts store for the front struts. i got mine at autozone. i eventually bought some from sears for about $50. if you are afraid (i see no reason to be if you use the right tools) you can take them to a shop to be assembled. pay attention to the alignment of the bottom eye to the top plate's two bolts that are perpendicular to the frame. think long and hard about that alignment to get it correct! it took me a few tries, even the second time i took them apart.
other than that, its a pretty easy install. hope i didnt scare you
for the skid mod, im using about 5 fender washers and longer m8 bolts right now because i couldnt manage to clearance enough to get it back in with stock bolts.
not sure how rusty your vehicle is, but soak everything in PB blaster for a week prior, go out every day and put some on each bolt, this will really help. i had no rust but still did it the day before and everything went smoothly.
when i did mine i had to reuse the bushings and washers from the stock shocks. i assume its the same way. pay attention to order of parts (bolt, item, washer, nut kinda stuff)
you will have to bleed the brakes after opening up the rear brake line and installing the longer flex line.
rent some good spring compressors from an auto parts store for the front struts. i got mine at autozone. i eventually bought some from sears for about $50. if you are afraid (i see no reason to be if you use the right tools) you can take them to a shop to be assembled. pay attention to the alignment of the bottom eye to the top plate's two bolts that are perpendicular to the frame. think long and hard about that alignment to get it correct! it took me a few tries, even the second time i took them apart.
other than that, its a pretty easy install. hope i didnt scare you
Thanks seanzOrz. I will be taking my struts to a shop to be assembled. And yes my 4runner is fairly rusted underneath so I'll be soaking everything a few days earlier. I was unaware about any skid (plate?) mod, this is news to me.
Seems like a relatively straight forward job otherwise. Anyone else out there who ran into issues putting on this lift?
Cheers,
Denny
11-18-2007, 02:17 PM
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as for the skid plate modification, its required for the diff drop. since the front differential mounting bolts are now 1 inch lower, they contact the skid. you are suppose to cut and hammer out 2 sections, i did cut but apparently didnt hammer out enough. im not real fond of the sound of a 5# sledge on sheetmetal, so i just went with the washers.
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