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Old 07-18-2003, 12:19 PM
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Spark Plugs

How hard is it to replace the spark plugs on a 2nd Gen. Runner? There isn't a mechanic open until the week after next around here so I am hoping that I can do it myself with the help of a repair manual for my truck.

For a novice car mechanic...how hard would this be? Do you think I can do it???? I HOPE SO!!! It will save me some money and most of all TIME!!! Thanks guys!

Also, on a totally different note...has anybody had any experience with the new Quaker State High Milegae Oil? I bought some and figured I might as well post on here asking about it before I go ahead and change my oil in the next few hundred miles.

Thanks guys!!

All input is welcome...especially tips on replacing spark plugs!!!


Last edited by Fink; 07-18-2003 at 01:10 PM.
Old 07-18-2003, 12:29 PM
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Yes you can replace your plugs. It's a PIA if you don't have small hands though. I lost a quart of blood doing mine (not really). Be careful removing the wires, sometimes they fuse themselves to the ceramic part of the plug,
Old 07-18-2003, 12:35 PM
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How do I get to the plugs? And I hear you have "gap" them or something depending on what kinda truck I have...

I'm confused...I'm a newbie !
Old 07-18-2003, 01:02 PM
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How hard you say?
I went to the dealer this morning and had my plugs changed for me.
That's how hard it was

I use to change my plugs on all of my past rigs, including my '90 trucks 22RE engine, that was easy.

I refuse to change them on my V6, and also living in an apt. complex with 80 plus degree heat, would make for a very cranky Corey trying to change them, and passing kid's might pick up a few bad words slipping from the lips

I hear with the V6 you need a 2' extension to get to a few, and it's not so bad, but I don't have the patience to do it here.

I did pick up a new cap, rotor, and air cleaner, and I will do those myself sometime next week when I can spend time with the beast.

Also, stick with genuine Toyota tune up parts, they are the best, and stick with Nippon Denso or NGK plugs for your 3.0.
They are the best, the specialty plugs are all hype for these engines, as I have tried them in my 22RE before.
Especially stay away from the Bosch 4 pronger jobs.
Simple is often always the best.
Old 07-18-2003, 01:09 PM
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Do you recommend I take it to an authorized Toyota dealer for that?

High labor charge...75/hr. Does it take them long to do it and do they usually use the good plugs that you recommend?

Thanks for the help.

Here is my concern just to let you know. When I got my rig from the dealer on Monday of this week...he said that he would need the rig back in a few days so he could take it to his guy to do the work on it and he wouldn't charge me for it. Now he says that he has 6 vehicles at the mechanic and that I have to wait for all of those to get done. He says that he takes all his cars to Moonlighting Toyota Mechanics but I can't be sure of that. My question is, would it be worth using MY money to take it to the authorized Toyota dealer/mechanics and have them do it (they will be faster) or wait a week or two and have him do it?

Thanks guys!

I am almost thinking of dropping it off at the Toyota dealer tomorrow and say...fix this da*n thing! :cry:

Old 07-18-2003, 01:15 PM
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That's up to you where you wanna go.
Many feel that they get ripped off from their delaerships, and that the mechanics don't know anything.

I think it depends on your dealer really, as I have been using hte same dealer now since '90, for both of my Toyota 4x4s, and I couldn't be happier with them.

Never been ripped off, and the work is great, and they washed my rig for me today too.
Although I am going to rewash it tomorrow and do a much better "Corey" job on it.

If indeed the moonlighters are real Toyota mechs, you might save some dough.
I know a few in my area that do this work on the side for extra $$$.
Old 07-18-2003, 01:21 PM
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See what worries me about it is I have NO idea if they really are who they say they are. Moonlighters...I dunno.

How long do you think it would take the dealer...im just wondering so I can get an idea of a Labor charge...if its gonna take them more than an hour to do the plugs and a quick tune-up then I dunno about that.

What do you think Corey? I trust your judgement.

Old 07-18-2003, 01:25 PM
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Corey, no Bosch +4? Should I scrap them? Which plugs should I get. NGK Platinum? I think the Bosch haven't added or taken away any perf, but I think my underhood temp is up a bit with them.

How hard to change the cap and rotor?

Benefits from Magnecor wires - fact or fiction? Are stock wires equal?
Old 07-18-2003, 01:28 PM
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Looks like Corey is a very popular man in this thread!
Old 07-18-2003, 01:31 PM
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He IS the all knowing
Old 07-18-2003, 01:34 PM
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My main deal is I don't want to deal with this crappy acceleration and fouled plugs for another week! I want it done on Monday. After Monday I have nobody to help me drop off the truck...I can get there but way to get back. Anyway...there is a place here locally that I have taken some cars to and I think they do a pretty good job. They are going to be MUCH cheaper than Landers (my Toyota dealer).

I think its more of a time issue...how long it takes a place like Landers to do plugs & wires and a tune up. What do you guys think?
Old 07-18-2003, 01:35 PM
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Originally posted by 4x4Fink
How do I get to the plugs? And I hear you have "gap" them or something depending on what kinda truck I have...
If I were you, I would have someone else do the plugs. Bad things can happen when changing plugs.

First off, one of your spark plug wires could rip apart when pulling it off. I always pull my wires off using by holding onto the rubber cover on the wire. I've still had them come on multiple occasions even after doing so.

Second, you could cross-thread a plug when putting it back in. That is really bad.

Third, the #5 cylinder plug is a PITA to do. I've done it a few times so it isn't too bad for me. Plus I have small hands. You may not be able to get the plug back in.

If you do decide to do it, replace the wires at the same time. Make sure you use Genuine Toyota Parts. It's priced about the same as the aftermarket stuff but is of much better quality.

Use some WD-40 and anti-seize when putting the plugs back in. It will make them thread in much easier.

I hope that helps.

Old 07-18-2003, 01:41 PM
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The cap and rotor are easy -- plug and play. Changing the plugs isn't too bad, but I have small hands so I can fit in there pretty easily. I also had an assortment of ratchet extensions to get it just right. I pretty much followed the instructions in chiltons and everything came out ok.
Old 07-18-2003, 01:47 PM
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Fink - you can do this yourself. All you need is the socket and a couple of different sizes of extensions. A swivel might be handy too. The first 3 or 4 will take you about 10 minutes each. The last 2 or 3 are the tough ones. Pick up a decent gapping tool when you get the plugs. The cheap ones make it too easy to do more damage than good. Also, get the OEM plugs. Nearly everyone I know who has tried some fancy 10-tip, gold-plated-platinum plug has switched back.

Corey - 80 degrees, huh? Good thing you got rid of all that hair, the stuff just traps heat in you skull. 97 degrees here yesterday. Only 92 today.
Old 07-18-2003, 02:04 PM
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I'm taking it to a local place around here that I KNOW does good work, only gonna charge me 65 bucks with labor.

It was a 105 here today...I was out all day brushhogging my property...hot as a mother! I am a true redneck now...I forgot to sunblock on the back of my neck!

I'll let ya know how the plugs go at the shop.

Thx. for all your help!

Old 07-18-2003, 02:05 PM
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Originally posted by mtnfreak
A swivel might be handy too.
I thought swivels are bad for plugs, they tend to break the plugs in half or something. At least, that's what the chiltons says.
Old 07-18-2003, 02:07 PM
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I am not sure how long it took the dealer to do it, as they were diagnosing other stuff too.
The mech on my rig is one of their best, and I always ask for this guy when I go there.

Cebby, I would not scrap them until it's time to change them, then look at them and see how they have warn.
I have read on many forums of them fouling, and the 4 tips not burning at the same rate, thus one electrode may fire better than the other one.

I ran Bosch's in the 22RE, but not the 4 prong ones.
The single prong ones burned up fast, and the dealer told me way back then to stick with the two plugs I mentioned above.
This is why Toyotas are so reliable and run forever, as the ignition parts they put in there from the factory just work right.

Cap & rotor?
I can do both in less than five minutes.
It's just a few snaps holding the cap on, and one or two screws for the rotor.

Wires?
A little history.
I paid big $$$ several years ago for a hypo ignition for the '90 truck, and the same unit can be had for our rigs from Jacob's.
The Jacob wires sucked, and broke down fast with my Stan's Tri-y header, even though they were routed away from the header.
I put back on Toyota stock wires, and the rig ran so much better, and the are able to take the heat from a header.
I do hear Magnacore wires are good, but again, the Toy wires come with the looms, are the correct length, and just plain work right out of the box with no problems.

mtnfreak, 92, we had that about a month ago here, and I camped out in my living room with all the fans going
So hot you don't feel like doing anything.
I like it between 70 & 80 at the most for summer.
I think we are suppose to hit 85 today.
Good rig washing weather tomorrow.

Old 07-18-2003, 02:07 PM
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Changin the plugs has got to be one of the easiest things I have ever done to my runner. All you need is a 6" extension and spark plug socket. You can even pull all the plug wires at once without having to worry about sequence because they are all marked on the wires. But still best to do one at a time. It took me all of half an hour to finish with 6 plugs. And I do believe that the correct gap for the 2nd gen is 0.30. Definitely go with the stock Denso plugs, can't go wrong. Your engine will love you afterwards.
Old 07-18-2003, 02:16 PM
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Originally posted by Denk
And I do believe that the correct gap for the 2nd gen is 0.30.
Uhh, I think you're missing a zero in there somewhere.
Old 07-18-2003, 02:18 PM
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my bad....0.031.......don't wanna be puttin out the wrong specs for others.

Last edited by Denk; 07-18-2003 at 02:22 PM.


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