jtmaxx7

Alright. Bought the plugs, anti-seize, ratchet extension and the plug socket. I also bought the sears "spark plug guage" because that was the only one they had that went up to .044. This might be a stupid question, but I cannot figure out how to use it to check the gaps on the new NGK plugs I just purchased. It's a circle with loops coming out to check the gaps. This is the item:

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...0&tab=des#tabs

Anyway, does anyone know how to use this "guage"? Can I use it to gap as well?

wrenchmonster

The bottle opener looking side adjusts the gap, some guys approach from the front, some from the side. If you want to close the gap, just gently tap on a flat surface, and by gently I mean gently. The wire is there as a gauge. When gapped properly you should feel just a very slight drag across the wire... like pulling a tissue out of a box of kleenex.

MTL_4runner

Those plugs should come correctly pregapped for you (ie install straight out of the box).....then just inspect them for damage. Remember to put just a little (ie enough to fill the dips in the threads, that's it) anti-seize on the threads if you do use it.

jtmaxx7

Still don't get it. How are you supposed to get the wire part into the gap to test it?
Oh well, guess I'll just have to chance it and hope they are all correctly gapped.

One more thing, do I/should I have to use dielectric grease too?

jtmaxx7

Still don't get it. How are you supposed to get the wire part into the gap to test it?
Oh well, guess I'll just have to chance it and hope they are all correctly gapped.

One more thing, do I/should I have to use dielectric grease too?

GSGALLANT

The diameter (in inches) of those little wire loops is marked by each loop. Locate the loop that says .044 inch. You should be able to fit the diameter of the loop between the side electrodes (check both of them) and the center electrode. Like Wrenchmonster said, you shouldn't have to force it through... the wire (across its diameter) should just barely be touching the side electrode and the center electrode when you pass it through.

You should use dielectric grease in any electrical connector on a vehicle. For sparkplugs, just apply a thin layer to the top metal end of the plug (where it connects to the wire), and down a bit on the ceramic portion (basically everything that gets hidden by the sparkplug wire boot.)

jtmaxx7

Thanks, I tried that. I'll try again tonite when I go home. But the one I checked was too small. I couldn't fit the .044 between. Does that mean that the gap is too small? Or is it correct because it the manual it says .043. I don't really want to have to mess with it being that I don't really know what I'm doing. I'll try the rest and let you know. Thanks again for the help.

MTL_4runner

You'll cause yourself all kinds of headaches by messing with the gap on those (esp if this is your first time doing this). Visually inspect them for electrodes being bent (ie shipping damage, etc) and install as is straight out of the box.

rimpainter.com

I have had the same issue with ALL my plugs. Had to adjust the gap myself; they were way off in some cases. The gapper should have an adjustment piece on it to make it easier for you.

While I agree with proceeding with caution as you could do more harm than good, it should be noted that I would have never installed my plugs with the gaps I found.

GSGALLANT

However, if you are unsure of what you are doing, find someone who knows exactly how to do it and have them show you. Even somebody at the dealership should be able to take 5 minutes and teach you.

jtmaxx7

I checked them, well at least 4 of them and none of them fit. The .040 does however. That sucks, I don't want to mess with it. The .044 should slide in between the side and middle electrode correct? Again the .040 barely does that. Thanks for all the advice, I guess I'll go ask someone who knows what they're doing to help me.

GSGALLANT

That is correct. They are supposed to be pre-gapped, but 5 out of the 6 of mine needed a tiny bit of adjustment when I changed mine.

jtmaxx7

Just installed new plugs last night. Not too bad with my brothers help about an hour. Didn't have a torque wrench so that was the only iffy thing but it runs fine. The old plugs looked kinda bad. I think it was in there for 60k. I checked the gap on the used ones and all was larger than .044.

As for the gapping all but one elcrode on one plug was at .044, the rest hardly fit the .040. So we changed them all to .044. I figure .044 is closer to the manuels .043 than the .040. The truck seems to run a little smoother maybe it's just in my head. Will check milage after this tank.

Thanks again for all the advice it really helped.

FingerMan20

you didnt come across the little disc-style ones? they cost about .99c at autozone/advance auto.

like this: http://www.royalenfieldusa.com/image...G%20GAPPER.jpg

they are dead easy to use. you just tap it a bit smaller, then slide the gap through the gapper to the spec you want, then you are good to go.

jtmaxx7

Never saw that one. The one i got from sears was only a few bucks anyway. not sure how much harder it would be to use though.

MTL_4runner

Keep in mind the gap opens up as the plug wears so if they are gapped 0.003 too small, that is really not going to have any effect on performance and may actually prolong the life of the plug slightly. What you want to look for is plugs that are out by 0.01 or more (often bent during shipping or install) and correct them if needed.

BTW, those disc style gappers can't be used on a dual electrode plug like the 5VZ uses:


You should ideally use one like this (but they may be very hard to find):


One like this will work but it is often hard to get an accurate measurement:


I still maintain that if you don't have a good tool for gapping the plugs, your best option is just to inspect them for damage beforehand and install them straight out of the box. The plugs are made on precision high speed machinery and often they are gapped more accurately than people are measuring so they are usually best left alone (ie use the gapper for verification of damage only....if they are way out, then adjust).