Duec66

Noticed some oil on the ground for the first time a while ago so i kept an eye on it. I looked underneith and can't pin point where its coming from cause it seems to be from everywhere. Its a 94 4-runner 3.0 v6 its got 141k on it and the guy I bought it from said the lower end of the engine was rebiult(whatever that means :newbie. So any ideas on how to pinpoint the leak on that year and model. I've had it for two years and this is the first time i've seen oil underneeth.

Duec66

NathanBERG

Well the best way to find where the leak is coming form is to clean eveyrthing up down there and then use some Fluorescent Tracing Dye as seen here http://www.autobarn.net/tratp3400060.html

dwh91102

if its all over the enging im going to have to say valve cover gaskets

wrenchmonster

Ditto on the tracer dye. You'll need a black light to see the dye, btw. What fluids are you loosing? This is a good time to check all your fluids. Start from the top of your engine and investigate downwards. Also, clean your garage floor and park over a clean spot. Look to see exactly where the leak is pooling and start from that point.

Bottom end is the everything in the block. That is, crank, crank bearings, front and rear main seals, pistons, rings, etc. A lot of folks say that the bottom end is rebuilt, but in reality they just mean that new crank bearings have been installed.

-Wrench

Duec66

I've heard that if the crank bearings have been replaced then the engine probably won't last long after that and will be plagued with problems. Is that true?

The leak seems to be dripping off where the bell housing connects to the engine. But theres other fresh dripps on other things but the pool is under the housing.

The dye sound like a good start.

dwh91102

ohh sounds like a rear main seal, i hate to say i can't recall the numbers of runners i seen blow at 140k....mine went at 148k and my buddys runner went at 141k. good luck, but it may be time to pull that motor and have it rebuilt

Duec66

NOOOOOO!!!!!! I don't even want the runner anymore I've been trying to sell it since Oct. Its 2 wheel drive so no one wants it around here.

dwh91102

damn man that sucks, you got full coverage insurance....lol

Zachariah1023

My rear seal is getting replaced as we speak. It had been leaking oil since i got it back in august and we couldnt pinpoint it but then took it to a shop and found out the problem. 850 bux out of my pocket. 144k miles

green91runner

when i bought mine the previous owner thought the rear seal was leaking, i accepted that and when i went to do an oil change found out that the drain plug and the oil filter were extremely loose! (1/4 for both and they fell out )

dunno if this is common? or just a shotty oil change by the shop that did it... either way, the leak allowed me to knock $700 off the price tag

NathanBERG

How much did you pay for it?? What are you trying to sell it for???

Duec66

I just got back from a toyota only shop and they told me it was the Valve cover gaskets. they want 350 to fix the leak and adjust the valves. Is this a good deal, or would it be worth tackling the problem myself?

Duec66

They also said it could be the rear sel also but they wouldn't know until they did the valve covers.

Jays4Runnin

I have 147K now and starting to notice some leakage....was it the valve gasket? Is that an easy thing to do? WAs it the Bell housing, GOD PLEASE DONT BE THE BELL HOUSING!!!! (sigh) sorry

Lliamh

At 132K, I'm stilll leaking even after I replaced my valve cover gaskets. Way cheaper doing it myself than the $500 quote I got (about $30.00 in parts and a few hours). I poked about underneath while it was up on a rack for brakes the other day, and the valve covers are dry. Was told to look at cam plugs (dry) oil cooler seals (going there next) and rear main seal in that order.

93bluetoyota

Mine just started to leak from the oil pan gasket. I'm sure that gasket is easy to replace. Its probably the best place to to have a leak because it leaks onto the skid plate and not on the ground! With that leak I go though about 1.5 quarts in between a 3000 mile oil change. I have 141,xxx on it too.

ROMAD

95 4Runner with 3.0 108K

At 105K oil change I noticed lots of oil on the pan, flywheel cover and transmission areas.....ran all the way up the block to points un-seen. Ended up being the drivers side valve cover gasket had a leak on the rear of the head - just where I couldn't really see it.

$20 felpro gasket set from O'Rileys and 1 hour of methodical work and its fixed. Be warned - the passenger side is more involved but if given the choice between paying $350 or DIY....I am going to DIY. Heck $350 is damn good toy money - no way in hell I am buying a mechanic a new toy if I can DIY! So I did it myself

No more leak, no more mess on the underside and believe it or not - I think its a bit quieter now even though I never let the oil level get really low.

Jays4Runnin

Hey Romad,

i have a 92 3.0, How hard was it to do the drivers side gasket. I know things , but I would classify myslef as a noob.
I would assume taking off the valve cover would include a lot of steps. I read teh tech write up section but if anyone reading this would like to go a step by step type of proceedure it would be greatly apprciated!

Thanks
Jay

YotaJunky

If you haven't already done your valve cover gasket job, here's a step by step 'how to':

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...e+cover+gasket

Troy

marcbeeme

I would pay the $ its kinda a pain in the ass unless you are really careful bc there are a ton of connections and hoses you have to remember where they go. If you do try and do it, do it all at once so you dont forget and just tie the upper intake to your hood instead of unattaching all those connections on the left side. Hope I helped, adjusting the shims is a very good idea to if you dont want a burnt valve bc that will cost even more money. Its pretty hard to adjust the valves. It consists of getting new shims if the lash is wrong.