Fink

This is the weirdest thing that has happened to my 4R since I've had it.

I was going to lunch yesterday and tried to roll down my back passenger window using the switch on the door (rear passenger side door) and it wouldn't go down. I went over to the driver seat and tried to use the switch there and it worked...but it was REALLY slow. Now what happens is when I roll it down it seems to work fine up until about halfway or so, then it gets really slow and starts to shake slightly. On its way back up its is EXTREMELY slow. I don't think it could be the motor because I believe it was replaced about 3-3.5 months ago.

The other thing is the rear tailgate window...it goes down fine until about halfway and then it starts shaking, pretty violently too. And it just seems to be slower overall. If find it weird that BOTH of these windows would be having their motors go at the EXACT same time.

The only thing that I did that could possible make this happen would be some fishtailing and just goofing off in my pasture while it was raining. Do you think there may be some water inside of the mechanism or something?

I don't want to have the dealer look at it because they will charge an hour of labor just to take the door panels off.

What do you guys think it could be?

I'm only concerned because my rear driver side window doesn't work period and it would really suck for me to have two non-working rear windows. And if the tailgate window goes bad then I will HAVE to get it fixed because I use that back cargo area ALL the time!

HELP!!

Fink

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Fink,

Sounds like you might have a charging issue going on here, alternator not charging the battery properly or the battery is going out, or perhaps one of those weird coincidences where two power window motors are going bad at once. Definitely weird.

Fink

But if it was a charging problem wouldn't it affect ALL windows. The two front windows work fine. Haven't checked the sunroof yet but...

I would also think that it would affect stuff other than the windows...I mean it starts fine even on cold cold cold cold cold mornings.

What else could it be other than a charging issue.

I REALLY hope that the motors aren't going bad...how much do you think it would cost to get both motors replaced at $75/hr.

Thanks guys,

Fink

Thanks for the fast reply Brian...still waiting to get my Tech1's on!

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

I know the feeling. The power door on my wife's Sienna started acting up and its going to cost $200+ to replace the automatic door mechanism parts/labor. Wouldn't you know it after we just turned past 36K? I get some extra money from selling my old rims and stuff and something comes along to take it away! It never fails!

I wouldn't think getting a bit wet would have any dire affects on the motors as I would think that those motors are pretty well sealed expecting folks to have the windows down some when it is raining, as long as you didn't like put the hose pipe down the window track or something. I'm sure someone has had this happed to them before, just a matter of time for them to find your thread.

Show us some when you get your steelies on!

Fink

Its going in to the shop tonight or tomorrow so I can just have them look at it WITHOUT taking the door panel off and see if they can find anything or if they know of anything that could be causing it.

I will definately post pics when the steelies get put on...it will probably be a little bit 'cause the lugs won't be in until this coming Wednesday.

But I am hoping the starting problem will be fixed by tomorrow night.

Later guys!

Fink

Toddski

Hey there Fink....
Last year on my '88, the passenger window would roll down real slow. I didn't do anything with it until my back window started going down real slow and shake like you say.
I opened up the compartment where you can get to the mechanics of the window. I lubed at the moving parts real good with silicone spray. This did the trick for me.
I need to do the same again to both windows as they are acting up again.
See if this will help your problem.

Cebby

This is likely what will work for you Fink. In addition, use spray silicone on the rubber on the window guide channels. The rubber in the channels get dried out over time. These two dry surfaces rubbing against each other causes friction that will cause the slowdown you are speaking of. Lube it up and you should be good to go.

FYI, if you have never replaced your rear window regulator, it might be worth replacing (have a looksie first obviously). The regulator (fancy name for mechanism) is the cheap part ($75) of the rear window assembly - try to preserve the motor ($200+) Over time the regulator gets debris in the channels and in the grease that keeps it working. This stuff gets all ground together and makes your motor have to fight to get the window back up. Also, the swing on the rear window regulator gets tired over time also.

Good Luck. Don't take it to the dealer to fix this sort of stuff. It's an easy DIY fix - even if you are replacing parts...

Satchmo724

fink, i had the same problem as you about a year ago, only it was my drivers window and my rear window. i took off the door panels and noticed that it would shake due to the friction that it was causing on its way up. i sprayed a buttload of white lithium grease (lighter than wd-40) on all the parts (rail and slide wheel etc) and it did the trick. i think mine did it because the 4runner had been in relatively dry, warm weather all its life, and now was being subjected to pretty extreme cold, so the difference in climate might have caused moisture to get in there and expel the prevoious oil out. my .02

dajabr

Same here, mine was wobbling side to side, up and down, lurching and groaning. I used teflon bicycle stuff and the window FLEW open and shut. Found later that the bike stuff delivers teflon in a solution that first breaksdown previous coats of junk, then evaporates leaving the teflon to settle in a somewhat "cleaned" area. It is also rust protected by the same evaporative junk. I used it on everything I could in my truck, locks, seat rollers, door hinges, heater control push-wires, etc. etc. ad nauseum. Takes a while to "dry" to a sticky consistency but I have not had a single lube issue since.

Teflon bike lube.

Fink

How do I go about taking the stuff off to get to the internal mechanism of both the rear door and the passenger side rear window? Thanks guys!

Fink

RAZORBACKS WIN AGAIN..FINALLY!!!! GO HOGS GO!

Satchmo724

amazingly, this is something well desgined by toyota, its incredibly easy. the passenger door panels come off with just hand tools, just remove the handle and and pop the lock mechanism out, then pull off the panel and unplug the power switch still attached, (just a molex connector) everything becomes incredibly apparent here. as for the back window, essentially the same procedure, everything mostly pops off, but you'll have a plastic wrapping type sheet that helps cover everything from water. move that out of the way, spray it down real good with lubrication, and reattach everything. my glue on the sheet was still good enough to reuse, so i just pressed everything back on, but i've had to use hair spray before. (dries hard as a rock after about two minutes in the heat). any questions let me know.