skshepherd

My 97 4runner's having trouble when its parked with the parking break on. When you then get in and try and move it it wont budge at first and then a clank comes from the rear. I checked the bell cranks, cleaned and lubed them. Had the same problem, let off the parking brake wouldn't budge, so I went and looked and the bell cranks were free and not engaged.

Next day took off the wheel and drum and lots of moist brake dust and a little wet oil around where the hub spins. So Im thinking leaking something on the axle, inner seal, bearing, outer seal or all the above.

One post said its usually the inner seal. It said you could replace that without using a press and all to remove the bearings etc, because that all came out with the axle spindle and the inner seal stayed put in the axle housing.

I called a CDan the parts guy from the Ih8mud forum and he said I'd need all new parts because the bearing has to come out and it gets ruined on removal. New retainer clips, abs rings, exciter rings, seals, bearings, etc all add up $$.


can you just unbolt and pull the spindle and backing plate out, go to the housing and pry the seal out, put the new one in and put it all together for the price of the inner seal alone?

This 4runner has 158k miles on it, so would it be a good ideal to go ahead and replace everything? I've found a auto machine shop that will press on and off the seals/bearings if I need to go that route.

I would like to do this once and not have to do it again for another 158k miles and I really don't want to have to buy more brake shoes because they have gotten soaked with oil. Trying to save $$ in the short and long term.

Also, has anyone paid the dealer to do this, if so how much does that run?

Thanks for you thoughts and suggestions.

AZ4ME

iTrader: (1)

Replacing the inner seals on the rear axle is a piece of cake.

-get new rear seals from the dealer
-drain the diff fluid
-disconnect the ebrake cable
-disconnect the brake lines
-unbolt the 4 bolts on the backing plate
-pull the whole drum assy/axle out
-pull the old seal out (I find it easier with a seal puller)
-install new seals (pound in easier if you keep the new seals in the freezer
overnight)
-put everything back together, fill up the diff and bleed the brakes

When you are putting the axles back in, be careful not to rest the axle shaft on the new seal or it could damage it, and you will be back in the same boat. If you have oil all over the rear drums, you may want to pull the drum off and clean the rear brakes.

Maj

What happens is that the gear oil mixes with the brake dust and forms a paste which make the shoes cling to the drums. The shoes are contaminated so toss'em and buy some new ones. If you've never done brake shoes before do one side at a time so you can reference the other side on how to put it back together. The specialized brake shoe tools help but you can get by with several sets of pliers, a screwdriver assortment and some patience.

You don't need a press, that is only necessary when replacing the seal for the outer bearing. The seal you are after is the one in the axle housing. Getting the old seals out isn't too difficult but getting the new ones in without deforming the flimsy metal seal housing is a bit tricky. If I had it to do over I would buy a cheapo seal driver kit from Harbor Freight. Try checking with the local auto parts store to see if they will loan you a puller and driver.

A co-worker was quoted around $700 to replace the seals. That included new brake shoes. If I recall correctly I think I spent around $70 for seals and shoes from the local parts house.

skshepherd

Thanks guys! Thats what I needed clarification on. I am going to go ahead and replace everything. I found a auto machine shop that is going to do the outer seal and bearing for me. I definetly will try and get a seal driver and puller kit from autozone. I'll let you know how it goes. Doing all the outer stuff adds a lot of $ in parts, but I might as well do it while Im in there I guess.

Again, thanks!

toy_tek

I would do the bearings too, here's why.

I replaced the seals (and shoes) a while ago on mine with Napa. Well last week they puked out again, so I need to replace the shoes a third time. At 151k, mine has never had the bearings replaced. So I'm going to do it all this time around.

Recommendation: OEM seals & bearings. Also double check your diff breather is clear.

skshepherd

Thanks 111db, I plan on following your recommendation. I ordered the parts to do the diff breather also. Hope yours stays fixed this time around.

Ron Helmuth

I admire you guys that can actually do your own wrenching-I would never begin to attempt this myself.

AZ4ME I love that line- "piece of cake" ha I could break a lot of precious parts attempting this procedure. I

My question is this-is it wise to just go ahead and replace the rear axle seals before failure as preventative maintenance or simply wait and see if the rear axle seals ever fail?

toy_tek

Ron - not a bad idea at all. They will eventually fail. It is just a function of wear, not abuse or the day the truck rolled of the line or anything like that. The seals are 6-10 each depending where you get them, but if they fail then you need to add another $50 or so for brake shoes. I'm just fed up because I've changed the rear brakes twice already in the last two years and now I have to buy another new set since my seals failed again. I would also say go with OEM seals... This go around had napa seals in and they failed after only a couple thousand miles.

toytech76

There is an updated seal part # for the inner axle seals. The tsb says its only for the tacoma but the seal is the same seal used in the tacomas and in the 4runners from the early 90's and up. The old # is 90310-50001. The new # is 90310-50006. This seal has a better design and the rubber lip of the seal is longer giving you a better sealing area. It is designed to fix the common axle seal leak problems

Ron Helmuth

thanks 111db and toytech76 seems like a no brainer as the miles get up around 100K to go ahead and do this/have this done and avoid trouble down the road.

Appreciate the feedback and the part number

Jay204

I had the same problem man, my E-Brake had seized on the rear brake. My truck wouldnt budge unless I threw it in 4x4. Had to re-do my rear diff-seals...best bet...never use the e-brake. I used mine all the time..and it still got seized on.

deines97runnah

Happened to me. Replaced seals, rings, bearing, the whole speal. Result: No more sticking rear drums. Oh yeah i replaced the shoes as well, contaminated shoes dont work that well.

Ron Helmuth

okay what a coincidence-my drivers side rear seal has puked this evening onto my garage floor.

Right before the holiday weekend. Wow! great timing....

Just lifted my ride two weeks ago-any relationship to seal failing? (Old Man Emu springs and shocks professionally installed)

I have been watching my CV boots looking for any leakage but all is well up front.

This is not something I am capable of doing myself. Any reason not to let another mechanic shop do the work and save myself a couple of hundred bucks?

toytech76

Ship it out here, i'll do it for ya. lol

Ron Helmuth

thanks a lot ! got your part number here and on t4r appreciate that.

No relationship to the lift right? pure coincidence? Seems like the mileage is right in the range....I am at 73K miles or nearby.

toytech76

yah, its not from the lift. Its just a poor design. I think thats why they came up with a better seal that has a bigger sealing area. Chalk another one up for toyota to live and learn

Ron Helmuth

thanks for your tech knowledge-it just seemed an odd coincidence being so close in time to the change in height.

Think there was ever a TSB on this? probably should have been...

this makes me want to hurry up on my next attempt to "fix before need arises"
the starter contacts.

I have been reading up on your starter removal tips and eying it from below but haven't gotten my hands dirty on it yet.

Ron Helmuth

about $850 for the drivers side rear axle seal (new design part #ending with 6)
and bearing. New brake shoes and turned drums on both sides.



Wow! I would have thought that a seal change would include both sides but that is about another 3 hours of labor the dealership tells me.

toytech76

wow thats VERY expensive. I think doing BOTH sides at my shop is between $600-$700

Ron Helmuth

all done amazing how all it takes is money sometimes....

Shop rate now $105 per hour. Brakes feel great in the rear.

I need an automotive job....