Texas_Ace

First off I am NOT responsible for anything you do to your car, this is just what works for me.

Well, just figured I would post up some results with these products. Many of you have seen me promote seafoam in the gas and intake manifold before and i am a huge fan of this but i have never really suggested running it in the oil.

Well my motor has had 3 weak cylinders with low compression ever since i got the truck. Generally got around ~180psi on the good cylinders and ~135-145psi on the bad ones.

I had figured it was stuck rings but never really thought about trying to free them up. Well I was going to change my oil and saw a can of seafoam and marvel mystery oil sitting on the shelf. Figured what the heck, might as well try them. If the motor blows i will rebuild it.

So I put them in and drove the truck for a day or 2 to let them work. I then ran 2 gallons of water through the engine with my meth injection kit and then used the rest of the seafoam in the intake manifold like normal.

After all of that I changed the oil and drove it for a few days. I noticed an immediate improvement in how it ran. Lot smoother, started easier and just felt like it had better compression.

Yesterday I decided to do another compression test to see if my instincts were right. To my amazement the compression had jumped up to 190-195psi across the board! Ran the test twice cause i could not believe it.

So I have to say that done with caution I am now a believer in using these in the oil. I would not do it on a healthy/clean/new motor but when you got nothing to loose or you know there is a problem that these might help it is worth a shot.

Like usual i highly recommend the seafoam through the intake and in the gas as well.

Now for the methanol injection. I have to say it really will clean out the motor, i pulled the supercharger a few months back and it was sparkling clean inside all the intake manifold ports. It really will help clean everything out over time.

Texas_Ace

I will give you an idea on the treatment i give all new-to-me cars when i first get them besides a complete tune up.

First off Get all the stuff you will need together:

1 to 3 cans of seafoam
1 bottle of marvel mystery oil
oil change parts for your car ,filter, oil ect.
gallon of distilled water/washer fluid
Few random bottles of injector cleaner, i like to overload on that when i do it.

You can also pick and chose what parts of the treatment are right for you. You could leave out the water treatment if you wanted, it takes a lot of time. Putting the seafoam/marvel mystery oil into your oil can work great. It freed up the rings on my 4runner and bumped compression from what was ~180psi on 3 cylinders and ~135-145psi on the other 3 to an even 190-195 across the board. It does have a bigger chance of possibly hurting something then the rest of the treatments though. EDIT: I put another quart of MMO in the oil with my last oil change, after running another compression test when changing the oil recently My compression Is up again to 205psi across the board! New OEM spec is ~220psi!

Now I will first dump all the injector cleaners into a gas tank about 1/4-1/2 full. If you are going to put the seafoam/marvel mystery oil into your oil this is the time to do it as well. I do advise caution with putting these things into your oil, I have had great luck with it personally but there is a chance they could hurt something. I would not use it on a new/clean/otherwise great condition motor. On an older motor that you don't care that much about go for it.

I put a quart of MMO and ~1/3-1/2 a can of seafoam into the oil a few days before I plan to change the oil. Then drive the truck like normal until you change it to let them work. I have put them in the oil with a fresh oil change and ran then for 3000 miles with no ill effects so no need to worry, this is recommended on the bottles.

Then I like to start with the water/washer fluid first. Find a vacuum line on or near the Throttle Body that will feed all the cylinders evenly. Make sure it is not only connected to 1 intake runner or offset on the intake manifold so it would only feed some of the cylinders. If that is your only option you need to find an equal port on the other side of the manifold.

You don't want the line to be too big. If it is too big you can get a smaller vacuum line and usually shove it into the bigger line and it will seal good enough for what we need. 1/4" line (the line is generally measured by the outside diameter, the internal orifice is generally around ~1/8” or slightly larger) is a good size, slightly bigger or smaller is fine as well.

Now start the engine and drive it around to get it nice and hot. When you get back connect the vacuum line to the port you found earlier and stick it into the gallon of water. Important, you want the engine to suck the fluid in, DO NOT pour the fluid in. You will have to give the engine a lot of gas to keep it running but just let it keep sucking it down. You want to try to keep the RPM’s above ~2500-3000rpm during this process. Don’t leave it at idle, this is usually very simple once everything is setup. I usually run the whole gallon through the car in 2 or 3 treatments, broken up by me beating the heck out of it before coming back for the next one. You want to keep the engine hot for it to work.

After you finish the water go drive the car hard to clean it out. Don’t worry if it feels a little down on power, this process can foul the spark plugs which is why it is a good idea to install new ones when you finish. Or get some el cheapo Copper plugs to temporarily use during this process. Don’t swap plugs until completely done with the seafoam as well.

Now time for the seafoam, this is like the water except you need to let the car sit between treatments. Just like the water hook up the vacuum line and get ready to rev the motor up to keep it running, doesn’t need to be quite as high for this since you don’t want the seafoam to go right through, you want it to stick to everything so it can clean it. Stick the vacuum line into the can of seafoam and try to keep the motor running till it sucks up about half the can for the first treatment. Then let it bog out and die. Now let it sit for half an hour or so. Longer is better, for the first few treatments though you don't really want to let the motor get all the way cold.

Now go out and restart the car, it will take a little bit to restart, put the gas to the floor while trying to start it tends to help. Once started you should have one heck of a smoke show. The more smoke, the dirtier the engine is. You can let it idle for a little bit and have fun revving it so you smoke out the neighborhood or go for a drive and leave long trails of smoke. At some point go out and flog the car before the next treatment.

Now repeat the earlier process except use about 1/3 of a bottle at a time from now on so it lasts longer. Keep doing this a few times, you will start to notice that you have less and less smoke the more treatments you do. It will get to a point where the amount of smoke stops improving, thats when it is about as clean as it will get right now.

I generally will do one last treatment at this point, heavier this time. I will then let it sit overnight.

Dump any leftover seafoam or marvel mystery oil into the gas tank at this point.

The next morning start it up and go for a nice long drive, get the oil up to temp and keep it there for a good 10-15 mins if possible to help clean the last of the junk out of the motor. Could go to work and do it when you get home or whatever. Just don't put that many miles on it before changing the oil.

Now change the oil, and make SURE you change the oil, after all of this you will have some water and seafoam in the oil for sure, it needs to be changed. Refill the oil check all the fluids and there you go. It should now run noticeably better.

I have had GREAT luck with this regime on all of my cars but you do this at your own risk!

If you really want to clean out everything you can also get a "motorvac" treatment done. It is a snap on machine that will run cleaner though your fuel system to clean out the injectors and combustion chambers. It lacks some of the cleaning of the above treatments but it cleans other things better.

If you are scared of the above treatments this is a GREAT option. I noticed my vacuum jump from -20inhg to -22inhg after having the motorvac done, not that unlike the above treatment but like i said they clean things a little differently. Doing both would be ideal but a motorvac treatment will run you about $100.

J2F42C

Good to know for the 4runner and for every older car/truck I have as well.

I have used MMO before in the oil ten years ago and swear that I got much better gas mileage before and after using it. I know folks who use it in colder regions in order to help bring oil pressure up faster.

I also have used BG 44k with good success over the years to keep my injectors clean.

Texas_Ace

Yeah, when running the MMO you should get better gas mileage since it thins out the oil some and that in turn leads to better mileage. Thats why modern cars run 5w-20 oil, for the mileage improvements.

I am thinking about putting some in my oil to thin it out for the winter, doesn't get real cold here but might try it to see if it cleans anything else out before the next oil change.

swampfox

A friend of mine told me about how the blow by was greatly reduced in his Kabota tractor after using mmo in his oil. So I started adding it to my old riding mower, the blue smoke nearly went away at start up and I now add oil only after 5-6 uses . Before it was needing oil added after each use. This mower is a 70 model jd and the last rebuild was in the 80's.

Robb235

Do you not run the risk of hydro locking your motor with the water treatment?

Texas_Ace

No, I have ran the calculations before and you could in theory put a garden hose into your intake with the engine at 3000rpm+ and not hydrolock it (IIRC the calculations were for a 2.0l 4 cylinder as well). As the rpm's go up, it is harder and harder to hydrolock it.

Hydrolocking happens either when the engine is off or if you get a massive sudden surge of fluid (like the intake going under water).

With a small 1/4" hose using vacuum to pull in the fluid combined with the higher then idle RPM's you will have to keep the engine at to keep it from dieing. There is no worry about hydrolocking it. Soon as the engine stops running, it stops pulling fluid.

Just make sure to use a nipple that feeds all the cylinders evenly, preferably on the TB. That is the most important thing.

SPARKS89

iTrader: (1)

I'm reading up on Marvel Myster Oil now. I've never heard of it before. I'm definitely looking for ways to clean up my 22re and make it run better without spending a fortune. I've done the Seafoam treatment before, but I don't understand what the water treatment is supposed to do. Can you explain that part please?

Texas_Ace

It does the same thing as the seafoam, just with steam. Ever had a head gasket blow on you? If so you will have noticed how the cylinder(s) that got coolant in them were sparkling clean compared to the rest. That is due to the steam cleaning.

In theory you could just use water but I like to use both as the seafoam does a good job of getting the little stuff the water leaves behind. Plus it is more "visually rewarding".

The water treatment is basically the same as water injection which is proven to clean out an engine over time as well, we are just trying to do it a little faster.

SPARKS89

iTrader: (1)

Haha, no. Never had a head gasket blow on me (knock on wood). I'd like to try this as I'm still trying to find ways to clean out my engine without ripping it apart. I've always been taught water in a engine is bad so it'll take me a little bit (probably until my next oil change) to get my head past the whole idea of putting water in the vacuum line. I'm assuming the washer fluid is mixed in because of the alcohol in it?

Texas_Ace

Talking about in a water injection system? Yeah, guys use washer fluid since it comes pre-mixed with some level of methanol. You can run anything from 100% water to 100% methanol. I prefer pure methanol personally for most things.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

I told a friend about marvel for his 92 integra which lost compression on the 3rd cylinder (54psi). Told him to pull the plugs add about a table spoon into each cylinder and let it sit over night and abount 3 hours into the soak to spin the crank by hand a couple times and add some more into the 3rd cylinder. He woke up turned the motor over to clear the oil and reinstalled the plugs. Shortly after he gave me call bursting out in happiness as this soak method brought his compression back up to 180psi all the way accross. This stuff works!

runnermedic

my first test with seafoam was with an old injector from a 3vze that i know it was bad it was stuck open,so i leave overnight the injector in a can full of seafoam,the result? the can was full of disolved sludge,i tested the injector and it was working like new,then i used a can with 1/4 of fuel in the tank,after the seafoam, it was a miracle the 3vze was running smoother and mpgs went up too.

now i use seafoam every time a week before changing the engine oil,and it really works.
the engine run smoother and if you look the rocker arms they look cleaner,so in theory the engine will be cleaner.

Robb235

I just threw half a can of Seafoam into my crankcase, and one and a half cans into my 3/8ths full gas tank. I'm due for an oil change, so I'll change it either Tuesday or Wednesday.

How many miles do you typically drive with Seafoam in the crankcase?

runnermedic

50-80 miles should do the work.another thing i do is before changing oil i use half quart of new oil ,then i change the oil.

Robb235

Why?








(Apparently my message length is too short)

runnermedic

[QUOTE=Robb235;51995657]Why?








i flushed the engine of my 3vze with 3 quarts a few times before changing the oil
just to make sure no seafoam stays in there remember that the seafoam will make the oil thinner.but then i realized that 1/2 or 1 quart will do the same, that's what i do now in my 984r limited,is just me i don't mean that i should be done this way but i feel more secure doing it this way.

Robb235

Ummm... I just locked my motor doing this.

Texas_Ace

LOL, so did you put the seafoam though the intake or just in the gas like you posted above? It really works best through the intake.

Robb235

Would hit the starter and the motor wouldn't even turn over. Just THUNK! Let it sit for a while and it finally restarted.