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Screw Removal

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Old 12-16-2003, 10:00 PM
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Screw Removal

I have run into a predicament with trying to remove 2 screw from my 1998 4Runner.

I recently had my windshield replaced and now I have water coming in to my 4Runner.

I'm not sure if it's the windshield so I'm trying to remove the screws from the assist grips that are on the front pillars.

The top 2 screws came off fine. The lower 2 screws were stripped.

I purchased a couple of screw removal tools from sears but they didn't help much.

One of the removal tools broke off in the center of the screw.

Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

Old 12-16-2003, 10:13 PM
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Vise Grips
or Drill out the screw, the problem is that thes EZ outs are rediculously strong so I hope you have a strong bit or many dull bits. Use PB Blaster or WD40 (wd40 when drilling will cool the bit)
Old 12-16-2003, 10:15 PM
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frederick,

been there, done that. i probably tried the same sear's screw extractor too. i tried pb blaster, tabasco sauce, wd-40, etc. i even used an impact wrench, but no go.

ended up cutting the assist handle off and then used my dremel tool to cut out a thick slit big enough for my BA (big ass) flatbladed screwdriver andthat worked.

the assist handle is not that expensive either.

bob
Old 12-17-2003, 03:50 AM
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The old Dremel is definately to tool for that job. Screw extractors all suck and none of them ever work! Just cut a slot for a flat blade screwdriver and that should get it out. In the future either use the dremel trick or just drill the head right off the screw and use vicegrips to unscrew out what is left after you have removed whatever it was holding. That will give you more to grab on to. My preferred method is the Dremel tho.

BTW When I worked as a mechanic the worst bolts were on brake parts and sometimes a caliper bolt would snap off (that really sucks!) In that case you just scale up the same trick by using a cutting wheel to grind a slot and then an impact driver to get it to break loose. A little heat from a torch then quench with PB Blaster will help the process too.

Rusty exhaust bolts need to just be redrilled and retapped. Did work with a guy that could melt the bolt right out of the hole but that takes some serious skilz!!! I couldn't believe he did it.

Last edited by MTL_4runner; 12-17-2003 at 03:58 AM.
Old 12-17-2003, 04:06 AM
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It may not work for your present problem, but at times I have taken a wire welder and spot welded an old screw driver (or impact driver tip) to a stubborn or stripped screw. Of course you really have to protect the area if it's around glass or painted material. Good luck!
Old 12-17-2003, 06:01 AM
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Sometimes you can use a 1/16 drill bit drill a series of holes around the screw extractor, then popping it out. If you get the screw extractor out just use a larger bit to completely drill it out.

As for your leak, most likely it's your winshield leaking. Sometimes the window installers get a bit carried away and don't get it sealed up properly. I'd take it back to the place you had it done and have them check it out.
Old 12-17-2003, 06:23 AM
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It appears that something like loctite is used on them or gets on them from some other process that is done.

Here is what I do. I simply drill the heads off and the handle falls right off. Then remove the pillar trim. You will see the shaft of the screw sticking out about 3/8". You can then grip the shaft with vice grips and that gives you enough leverage to twist them out. Then just replace the screws when you put them back in.

Gadget

www.URDUSA.com
Old 12-17-2003, 09:07 AM
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If the runner didnt leak before the windshield replacement,i would take it back to the glass shop and tell em it leaks. They will fix it . I doubt if the handle has anything to do with it.
I cant believe BOB VILA sells crap.
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