TDiddy

Finally ordered up some Brembo rotors and ceramic pads. Hopefully just one more week or so of this!

humanoid

Tom - let us know how it all turns out for you. Which ceramic pads are you gonna use? Rotors blanks or slotted? Drilled? Both?

TDiddy

I went with Brembo Blanks and Axxis pads from Import Replacement Parts. I wasn't sure that it was worth the big jump in price to go with slotted rotors. The total was about $155 shipped.

toy_tek

I just installed the Brembo slotted and new stocker pads. Thankfully the warpage is gone.

Don't forget to check your rear brakes. I found mine required some adjusting, and the left self adjuster was rusted solid. That made quite a difference in braking feel.

midiwall

Right on Tom! I think you'll love the Brembo's. I got sick of flying through $60 NAPA rotors and finally did some slotted Brembos from Performance Rotors for $175.

They've alearedy held up FAR longer than anything that's been on the truck.

Tuhcoma

Sounds like a nice upgrade. Is the front rotor warping fairly common on Tacomas? My '03 is starting to shake under moderate to heavy braking, at ~20k miles. I'm pretty easy on the brakes (no towing or super-hard stops if I can help it); I leave the hard braking for my 911.

I know that over-torquing the lug nuts can warp the rotors, but I keep mine torqued to spec - especially after any shop touches them. Is this just inherent, and maybe the rotors are a little smaller than needed to prevent warping? I'll probably get mine turned and see what happens. Unfortunately the thinner rotors are even more susceptable to warping. Any input is appreciated. Thanks!

Cebby

Tom - I know I don't have a 3rd Gen, but the slotted rotors were a worthwhile investment for me. The improved performance with the slots is like a night day difference over standard solid (but vented) rotors.

Just my .02. For solid rotors, the Brembos are the best option.

TDiddy

I did read alot of posts (including yours) about slotted rotors. I was tempted but just couldn't pull the trigger on them! For the type of driving I do though I think solid Brembos will be fine.

FilthyRich

I have the solid Brembos with stock pads and I love them. they have been on for about 10k and I have zero complaints

TDiddy

@$##$&%$

Started this project this afternoon. Began with the RH side, and the final caliper bolt wouldn't budge to save my life. I tried EVERYTHING but had to throw in the towel. I took it up the road to a place with air tools! I'll have it back in the morning.

jh26

If it's a shake/vibration feel and not a pulsing feel, then there is a good chance your rotors aren't warped and the real problem is just uneven deposits left behind by the dust-free brake pads. Try swapping in some el-cheapo lots-o-dust brake pads and see if the problem then clears up in a week or so. I read about this "on the net", but can't find the link right now. I can say that this worked like a champ for me. My front brakes had vibrated under heavy braking since about 20k miles, and around 90k it started getting worse to the point it was a real hassle at times. I went and bought some very cheap pads, put them in and didn't even turn the rotors, and within a week it was like having a brand new truck. Of course, I have terrible brake dust all over my wheels, but what the heck, it's a 5 year old Truck - I certainly don't care.

BTW, the pads I took off at 90k miles were original, and hardly worn at that. It's amazing how you can learn to go easy on the brakes when the truck shakes if you use them very much! And yes, I do tow - up to 4000 lbs sailboats. Just don't use the brakes much.

LittleRedToyota

[QUOTE=TDiddyBegan with the RH side, and the final caliper bolt wouldn't budge to save my life. I tried EVERYTHING but had to throw in the towel.[/QUOTE]

i had a similar problem when i replaced my (frozen) calipers...couldn't get any of the bolts to come loose.

on the left hand side, it wasn't too bad because you apply downward force to the breaker bar to loosen the bolt...so i just put a long breaker bar on the bolt and jumped on the end of it a few times.

on the right hand side, though, you need to put upward force on the breaker bar so jumping on it won't work...

but, what did work for me was putting the breaker bar on the bolt then putting a floor jack under the end of the breaker bar. then just jack up the end of the breaker bar...you will either lift the truck off the ground or the bolt will break loose.

(also, "kroil" is about the best penetrating oil i have found...works great for loosening stuck bolts.)

i also used antisieze when i put the calipers back on...i was a little worried that the bolts might work loose because of it, so i kept a close eye on them for the first few months. they did not come loose.

then, a year later, i decided to repack my wheel bearings...the caliper bolts were still tight, but broke free by hand with just a regular old 18" breaker bar.

great avatar, btw...the penguins are making out so well from this whole strike/salary cap thing...they had already unloaded all their salaries, so now they have money to spend while everyone else is cutting players to get under the cap...and then they got the first pick in the draft...woohoo...the pens are going to be good again!!

KevyWevy

ok guys, quick question. i have warped rotors. im going to be buying new slotted ones. do i need to replace the pads at the same time? the pads that are on there are fairly new, maybe 3,000 miles? and if so, can somebody recommend some pad for me?

potsy

"If it's a shake/vibration feel and not a pulsing feel, then there is a good chance your rotors aren't warped and the real problem is just uneven deposits left behind by the dust-free brake pads. Try swapping in some el-cheapo lots-o-dust brake pads and see if the problem then clears up in a week or so. I read about this "on the net", but can't find the link right now. I can say that this worked like a champ for me. My front brakes had vibrated under heavy braking since about 20k miles, and around 90k it started getting worse to the point it was a real hassle at times. I went and bought some very cheap pads, put them in and didn't even turn the rotors, and within a week it was like having a brand new truck. Of course, I have terrible brake dust all over my wheels, but what the heck, it's a 5 year old Truck - I certainly don't care."

WOW...I've never heard of that. I also have a 3rd gen, and I just bought new rotors 3 days aga because of vibration, but I havent even installed them yet. I may try to swap the pads out first and see what happens...

potsy

"ok guys, quick question. i have warped rotors. im going to be buying new slotted ones. do i need to replace the pads at the same time? the pads that are on there are fairly new, maybe 3,000 miles? and if so, can somebody recommend some pad for me?"

everything i've ever heard is replace the pads when you replace the rotors, cause the old pads arent worn evenly and could warp the new rotors.

KevyWevy

thats what i assumed but wasn't positive. so any recomendations on pads guys?

humanoid

Performance Friction pads from AutoZone seem to work well. They make 'em for TRD from what I hear.

LittleRedToyota

i personally use OEM pads, but that's not to say all aftermarket pads suck.

however, i would be leary of any aftermarket pads that offer free lifetime replacement or a lifetime warranty or anything like that. the reason they can offer that is because they make the pads hard as dang diamonds...so, instead of the pad wearing away, your rotors wear away....much more expensive and PIA to periodically replace your rotors than your pads.

L33T35T 4Runner

I have brembo solid rotors and PF pads from autozone. no complaints, they're running perfectly smooth and stop on a dime. good thing i got them. if i had my old brake pad/rotors, i would have surely hit some lady, but luckly my truck stopped me in time.

Localmotion

i just go the same setup. They are perfect, a day to night difference.