Runner chewing through wheel bearings
#1
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Runner chewing through wheel bearings
So long story short, My runner has gone through three front drivers wheel bearings in three months. Its very expensive to replace them because you have to take them to a shop and have them do all the press work..
So now my third one is starting to creak, and I'm pretty ticked. This one was done at toyota, under warranty, with all new seals, and OEM parts. It was pressed in maybe two or three weeks ago, and has less than 150 miles on it. I haven';t jacked up the car and shook the wheel but this is how the others showed signs of failing, when I turn the wheel stopped, you can hear a creaking, clicking sound coming from the front drivers side.
Why could I be going through this many bearings? Obviously now I am just going to get a new spindle (manual hub swap maybe??) but of course I am going on a 600 mile trip Thursday, just great.
Any one have any idea as to what gives?
So now my third one is starting to creak, and I'm pretty ticked. This one was done at toyota, under warranty, with all new seals, and OEM parts. It was pressed in maybe two or three weeks ago, and has less than 150 miles on it. I haven';t jacked up the car and shook the wheel but this is how the others showed signs of failing, when I turn the wheel stopped, you can hear a creaking, clicking sound coming from the front drivers side.
Why could I be going through this many bearings? Obviously now I am just going to get a new spindle (manual hub swap maybe??) but of course I am going on a 600 mile trip Thursday, just great.
Any one have any idea as to what gives?
#2
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Any chance it could be the rack, or the CV joint failing? Have you discussed with the dealership?
I'm at 206,000 miles, and have never replaced any of the wheel bearings (original owner).
Andreas
I'm at 206,000 miles, and have never replaced any of the wheel bearings (original owner).
Andreas
#3
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if your spindle is cheesed you will blow through bearings if the inner race is no longer seating tight, if a there is a little wear on the spindle your bearing will noe be able to sit completely perpendicular to the spindle causing them to wobble a wee bit and destroying themselves, ask me how i know haha
#4
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So whats the fix?
if your spindle is cheesed you will blow through bearings if the inner race is no longer seating tight, if a there is a little wear on the spindle your bearing will noe be able to sit completely perpendicular to the spindle causing them to wobble a wee bit and destroying themselves, ask me how i know haha
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Well.. I guess I'll give some back story. It all started when I broke a CV, and had to replace it with an advance auto CV. Shortly after that I lost my first bearing.. I drove on that one for a while, while it was bad, then I had that replaced with a national bearing once I figured out it was toast, and tried to re-use all the seals and such. This was done at a mechanics Then shortly after that, the national was toast, and came out in more or less pieces. So I went and had toyota press in all new seals bearing etc... This lasted about the same amount of time as the national. So I had that replaced under warranty, and now... about two or three weeks later, the warranty replacement is creaking.
I don't know if somehow the inside of the spindle got messed up or what, but it has me at the end of my rope, I though about getting rid of the runner due to the frustrations this has caused.... (and that's pretty extreme)
Now I need to drive 600 miles on a bad bearing, and hope it doesn't blow up when I don't have my tools, or a replacement parts.
Anyone have a drivers ABS spindle they want to sell cheap? Or a manual hub swap.. cheap.. with ABS?
I don't know if somehow the inside of the spindle got messed up or what, but it has me at the end of my rope, I though about getting rid of the runner due to the frustrations this has caused.... (and that's pretty extreme)
Now I need to drive 600 miles on a bad bearing, and hope it doesn't blow up when I don't have my tools, or a replacement parts.
Anyone have a drivers ABS spindle they want to sell cheap? Or a manual hub swap.. cheap.. with ABS?
Last edited by Yukon; 09-28-2010 at 04:02 PM.
#7
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i would have the races pressed in then do the rest yourself, crqnk down the nut until you can barely turn the tire than turn the wheel a few times, this will seat them, then back it off just a hare then stake it there. after that tap the spindle with a sharp rap to release the extra pressure and test rotational torque, or preload, just my .02 but after yoiu do a few of these i guess people devolop their own way and this is mine
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Well have some more to add about this.... bought a 'new' used spindle off a low miles taco, installed it, and there is more play in the 'new' spindle than there was in my old one (which has play in it already) I'm at my wits end with this damn thing. What could I be doing wrong? the 'new' bearing spins smoothly, but has play. did I just get hosed, or what?
Sorry if this make no sense im just seriously pissed....
Sorry if this make no sense im just seriously pissed....
#9
i would have the races pressed in then do the rest yourself, crqnk down the nut until you can barely turn the tire than turn the wheel a few times, this will seat them, then back it off just a hare then stake it there. after that tap the spindle with a sharp rap to release the extra pressure and test rotational torque, or preload, just my .02 but after yoiu do a few of these i guess people devolop their own way and this is mine
Well have some more to add about this.... bought a 'new' used spindle off a low miles taco, installed it, and there is more play in the 'new' spindle than there was in my old one (which has play in it already) I'm at my wits end with this damn thing. What could I be doing wrong? the 'new' bearing spins smoothly, but has play. did I just get hosed, or what?
Sorry if this make no sense im just seriously pissed....
Sorry if this make no sense im just seriously pissed....
#10
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Should the hub assembly have play in it when the spindle nut its not tightened down?
As in CV nut off, CV tapped in a little so its not against the inside of hte hub, the hub unit has play. Normal or not?
thanks
#11
The hub and bearing should be tight, no play at all. The nut does NOT hold the bearing together. PreRunner tacomas use the EXACT same bearing as your 4Runner, but they obviously don't have a front axle. The unit hub bearings are not supposed to be sloppy.
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Thanks, now I know that I got hosed and It wasn't something on my end.
#13
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how tight are the ineer races of the bearings on the spindle? seccond how loose are the nuts that hold the bearing in? if it wobles and the inner races are snug on the spindle it sopunds like your not preloading them enough
#16
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Thanks for the constructive advice but COME ON death cougar looked up part and your right about the assembly but it also rides on a spindle does it not? so again my question how is the inner race seating on the spindle snug loose? and death cougar ive built and sold 11 trucks and 4runners, engine swaps, diesel conversions, custom fab, 4 links setups, so im not an idiot and if your not giving advice why be a jerk?
#17
I gave advice. The correct advice.
I have built and sold over 30 Toyota Trucks, 4Runners, Cars, Vans, and dismantled over 1300 of them working here at the wrecking yard. Just 4Runners I have owned 3 3rd gens, 2 2nd gens, and 5 first gens. "Mine is bigger than yours" etc etc.
If the "race" was loose in the spindle, without the axle in the hub would fall apart.
I have built and sold over 30 Toyota Trucks, 4Runners, Cars, Vans, and dismantled over 1300 of them working here at the wrecking yard. Just 4Runners I have owned 3 3rd gens, 2 2nd gens, and 5 first gens. "Mine is bigger than yours" etc etc.
If the "race" was loose in the spindle, without the axle in the hub would fall apart.
Last edited by DeathCougar; 11-03-2010 at 03:41 PM.
#18
I dunno, it's just so frustrating wading through the knee-deep poo around here sometimes...