MatthewP

I just transferred my kayak cradles from my old Thule rack (on a Saab 9000 Aero) to the factory rack on my new (to me) 2000 4runner SE. The rack seems pretty flimsy in terms of its attachment to the vehicle. The roof definitely flexes under the weight of my 'yak, which is way under the the weight limit stated on the rack itself (boat weighs ~70lbs, limit is 165 lbs.).

Here's my question: anyone ever hear of a factory roof rack failing in any, way, shape or form? What have you guys lashed to these things? I'm mostly concerned about highway speeds. In my previous setup, I did not need to use bow/stern lines to the bumpers. The straps across the cradles were more than enough. Not so sure about this with the factory rack. What are your experiences?

1985 4Runner

is the weight of your kayak being distributed evenly over the roof?

MatthewP

well, no. It's being transferred to the points where the rack load bars attach to the roof. It's distributed evenly between the front and rear load bars.

What are peoples' thought about aftermarket vs. original racks? I'd like to retain the original look, so I'm hesitant to use my old Thule (which I can do, just need a different fit kit).

Tacoclimber

To be honest with you, if I were you, I would ship that Thule rack to me. Seriously.

Ok, just kidding. Seriously, use the Thule. You know it's bomber, you know you can use it, and you won't have to worry about it. Although the stock rack may be able to theoretically handle it, over time, you might be bummed. The Thule will take the abuse. Just my .02.

Roadtripr

I havn't heard of any failures.
I have had my 70+ lbs kayak on the stock roof with no problems at highway speeds, but I havn't taken long roadtrips with it though. I used Yakima saddles plus both bow and stern lines.
I am sure Thule bars would give a more steady hold, and since you have the bars it shouldn't be too expensive to add it to you runner.

dusty98

I asked something similar in this thread, maybe some of this will help you as well.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...ighlight=kayak

MatthewP

Thanks for the input, everyone. I agree that the Thule rack is great. If I use bow/stern lines, I'm sure the factory rack will do fine (e.g., I'm lazy and I hate to screw with them). If I were to use my Thule, there's two ways to mount it. One would use the existing track system, essentially just replacing the factory load bars. Don't see a real advantage to this over the factory rack. The alternative method would incorporate a bracket that hooks under the door seal (from what I can see on Thule's website). My experience says that this will be a stronger connection, but I'm not nuts about the look (stupid, I know, but..)

Guess I'll have to break down and use bow/stern lines if I want to be fussy about appearances.

creekfisher

One advantage is you can use longer bars. Longer bars stick out to the side which makes loading easier. I can't remember exactly but I have about 52" bars which are just about perfect.

I have the yakima system. I have the locking landing pads which means I can easily take the whole thing on and off. IMO, it looks better than the factory rack. Plus, it makes cleaning the truck easier.

MatthewP

Had the kayak on the 4runner all weekend, both in town and on the highway. Factory rack held up fine to a 150 mile round trip.

Bob_98SR5

matthew,

look on ebay for the 416 feet pack. i have them and they are the older, one piece style. they are CHEAP on ebay.

i think ebelen01 might have a set he's selling too

thule is better than the factory rack re load capacity too

Bob_98SR5

yes, the weight limit is higher by about 50lbs iirc, but EVERYONE hits their head on the rack bar ends! i took mine off b/c my mom almost took her eye out when she was getting in. not to mention, the bars dont spread out very far too

MatthewP

I have the 52" bars, and the head injury factor was a concern also. I also wasn't nuts about how close the bars would be spaced (which is the case with the factory rack as well).

Roadtripr

I wish they made the tracks got the whole roof length.
I don't know how easy the thule bars are to put on and off, but a bar up over the door would perhaps make for a more stable rack in combination with the roof rack. Then removed it when you don't need it.

Jason B

Here's my setup.

I've had it over 5 years, and it still looks new. One time I came home and forgot my bike was on the roof. I pulled into the garage and bang! The rack didn't move and there wasn't a mark on it. The bike ended up with some scratches though.

From what I hear Thule is just as good. I guess it just comes down to personal preference. What name sounds better to you? hehe

Btw, the faring is a MUST

SpikeStrip

Bob, do you have the factory rails? If yes, what clips did you use to attach the 416 feet to the factory rails? The thule site doesn't list the tech instructions for the 416 foot pack, anymore.... ? Or is the 416 all you need, plus bars, of course ?

Thx.

MatthewP

After using the factory rack for a week or so, I bought the track mounting system for my Thule bars (which were the 50" bars, not 52" like I thought). I needed more width than the factory rack gave me. Now I can get my kayak on top, along with my ski/rod rack. wouldn't have fit by a long shot with the factory rack. Good to the extra load capacity, too. Using the track system also eliminates the potential of hitting your head.

Anyone want to buy a used factory rack?

hupptoy

Not sure why everyone thinks the stock rack is weak. I have close to 10K miles of vacation travels (mostly interstates) with a cargo carrier on the OE roof rack and have never felt it was unsafe. And I know that it (when loaded) weighs more than a kayak.

Here is what I run (Sears 20-SV, 20 cu. ft.):


hupptoy

Bob_98SR5

yes, thule does still list the downloadable manual for the 416s. http://www.thuleracks.com/thule/tech_manual.asp select 'multipurpose roof racks' and then '416 tracker foot pack' and then youll be able to download it.

also, yes, i have the factory rails. there are three pieces to the 416 system. there is the main mount part. the mount has 2 holes in it. through those holes goes the hex bolts. those hex bolts screw into these trapezoidal pieces of metal. those pieces of metal slide into the rails of the roof rack and by tightening down the hex bolts, you create compression which locks the mounts to the rack.

i hope that makes sense

but a good tip i picked up from another member was to use the existing toyota square pieces of metal and screw the hex bolts down into them. the problem w/ the thule ones is that they are maddening to screw into. you turn it a certain way and then the metal slips up and out.

bob

MatthewP

I had a bit of pain installing mine, because the trapeziod-shaped nuts did exactly what you describe, Bob. After some fiddling, I realized it was easier to assemble the whole washer/foot/hex nut/trapeziod thing and then slip it into the track, rather than drop the trapeziod nuts in and try to hit them with the hex nut. Still a pain. I actually had a bigger issue sliding the feet assemblies onto the load bars. You had to put pressure in just the right place. Hard to describe if you haven't done it.

Hupptoy, it's not that I think the factory rack is weak (though the thule bars/feet are definitely stronger), it just wasn't wide enough for my needs. If I were just using my kayak cradles, I'd have probably stuck with the factory rack.