Reepicheep

Gentlemen,
I am going to replace the front rotors and pads on my 1994 4runner (4wd, 3.slow). I have searched and read the other rotor/brake posts here (and the ones at 4x4 wire.com). But I need to verify a few things:

1 - What kind of hubs do I have? I assume they are some form of auto hubs, but I shift into 4wd on the fly (so obviously, I don't have the type of auto hub that requires you to be sitting still to engage, and go into reverse to disengage).

2 - considering the hubs I have, are there any major differences between my hubs, and the instructions that are on 4x4 wire.com?

3 - will the hub grease/oil seals need to be replaced, or can I leave them? (my bearings are fine and I don't want to repack them if I don't have to... or is it one of those "might as well do it while I'm in there" things).

4 - tools needed are: 54mm socket, torque wrench and alot of patience (am I missing anything).

5 - any advice you can give me that I haven't thought of?

Thank you for your help!!
Reepicheep

CTB

3. Replace the seals. It just makes sense to do while you are in there. Also, repack the front bearings. Again, something you should do while you are in there. Then, you don't have to worry about them for a good while.

5. Yes, have patience. Have access to air tools? That helped us seperate the hubs from the rotors a lot easier.

Highland Runner

You should have ADD hubs. Just a round plate with cone washers and a spherical cap. If you saw this on 4x4 Wire http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte..._end/teardown/ it should be the exact instructions. Those instuctions are shown with the Aisin manual hubs. Yours will be the round flat plate instead, but it comes off the same way. You will have to remove the spherical cap to get to the nut though. Use a flat screwdriver to get that cap off. I changed my rotors almost 50, 000 miles ago. I did not change seals or bearings. They looked fine and still are. Its one of those things that you'll have to see what the seals look like when you remove the rotor. This is a very easy job to do. The only thing you might want to do is spray the cone washers with penetrating oil for a couple days before starting. I did not use the 54mm socket or torque wrench. The nut is very easy to remove with pliers. I just mark and reinstall the nut the same number of turns I turned to get off. I know others will say this is not the way to do it, but it worked for me.

CTB

You don't really have ADD "hubs"....they are more like ADD flanges. Essentially, yours hubs are always in the locked position, and the front CV shafts are always turning. In order to alleviate this, a lot of us install Aisin manual hubs so that we can keep them in the "Free" position and keep the CV shafts from always turning. Saves quite a bit of wear-and-tear.

Reepicheep

For my own edification... what does ADD stand for?

Shafts spinning all the time eh? Sounds like that would put a damper on gas mileage.

Thanks for the replies... all things being equal, I hope to take some pics and put a tech article together.

Peace!
Reepicheep

PS - could someone list out the torque specs?

UKMyers

ADD is Automatic Disconnecting Differential. I just replaced a CV axle which involves pulling the rotor off and all I did was repack the bearings. For some torque specs and how to get the hub apart read this write up by Jim Rockford

Highland Runner

Yea, that is one reason why a lot of us put on manual hubs. The shafts spin very effortlessly though and I didn't see any mileage improvements after manual hubs. Its mostly to keep the CV's from spinning and reducing wear on them.

Robinhood150

You don't necessarily have to remove the rotor or even get into the bearings to replace the axle. I've even heard people replace it without even taking off the tire, although, I'd imagine it's harder to do.

AgRunner06

Go to that link from 4x4wire. Then scroll down and click on reassembly. That's what I used and haven't had any problems.

nofilter

UKMeyers and Robinhood, i just replaced my cv boots, which required removing the axle. i had to take the wheel off to take the center cap off. i did not have to take the rotor off to get the axle off. i did have to remove the lower shock mount to get the axle out, though.

anyway, back to reepicheep,

use the 4x4wire write up. i used a 2lb mini-sledge on the add plate to loosen the cone washers. a coupla whacks around the edge will pop those guys right out. you probably should replace the seals and repack the bearings while you're in there. unless you want to do it all over again in a few months if you notice your seals leaking.

while you're at it, now is a good time to add those manual hubs. i got mine from toyota_parts_dude. you can also try yotayard, although i was unsuccessful getting them to ship.

so get the seals, rotors, pads, manual hubs and manual hub gaskets in one shot and do the jub once! unlike me, i did the cv boots, then 2 weeks later did the hubs swap. but i wanted to do the boots before it started raining, and the hubs hadn't come in yet!