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Replacing Limited Rear V6 99 Inner Oil Seals Rear Axles

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Old 08-03-2012, 10:14 AM
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Replacing Limited Rear V6 99 Inner Oil Seals Rear Axles

This seems to be a very common job, and lots of write ups. The one I intend to follow is very well written, Replacing Rear Inner Oil Seals On Toyota Rear Axles
https://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech...m1_oilseal.htm
However I got a few questions that no one has addressed.

Do I need to drain the trans oil out first? If not, won't all the oil flow out from the axel as soon as I pull it.
If I don't need to drain it, then will mixing the Valvoline High-Performance 80W-90 Gear Oil with the existing oil be bad? How would I know how much to add back in there since some has leaked?

I see many pictures with the axle pulled and placed with the axle shaft standing. Will the brake shoes stay in place that way, or do I have to remove it?

Lastly after placing the new seal in the axle, do I need to bang it into place? Will pushing it all the way into the end suffice?
I appreciate all the help you can give me.

thanks!!
Old 08-03-2012, 10:55 AM
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When's the last time you changed out the rear diff oil? Now could be a terrific time! Not necessary, but something to think about. Some oil will come out when you pull the axle, but not a whole lot. Do be prepared with a drain pan of some sort.
Brake shoes stay in place. Check to see they aren't contaminated with oil.
I froze my seal and put it in as straight as I could as far as it would go, then used a like-sized tool to carefully tap into place (socket, tranny bit, whatever I have).

Last edited by habanero; 08-03-2012 at 10:58 AM.
Old 08-03-2012, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by plasmaboy
I looked at this write up and I want to add something very important. If your seals are leaking, where does that fluid go? It may drip down the backing plate and it will eventually soak your brake shoes. Well, it has to go through the wheel bearing before it can get your brake shoes wet, and if the wheel bearing has been contaminated, it should be replaced as well. It is also important to note, that fluid can leak between the axle and the spacer that the seal rides on, especially if the bearing has been replaced. Best way to avoid that is to thoroughly clean it and use some sealer meant for gear oil. Toyota red FIPG works great
Old 08-03-2012, 11:38 AM
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Thanks for the tips, habanero and j2the-e. I appreciate it!! Will be back when I get stuck on an issue!
Old 08-03-2012, 11:38 AM
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The job isnt too hard. You dont have to drain the tranny fluid. Just the diff fluid. It smells nasty!! Invest in a good seal puller. I got mine at harbor freight and it broke. I ended up smashing teh seal to get it out. Take your time. Do not scratch the inner diameter of the axle where the seal sits.
Old 08-03-2012, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by bobzworld
The job isnt too hard. You dont have to drain the tranny fluid. Just the diff fluid. It smells nasty!! Invest in a good seal puller. I got mine at harbor freight and it broke. I ended up smashing teh seal to get it out. Take your time. Do not scratch the inner diameter of the axle where the seal sits.
yikes.. I did meant diff fluid.

which do you think is better?
http://www.sears.com/kd-tools-seal-p...p-00999814000P
or this
http://www.harborfreight.com/seal-puller-91352.html

I don't need to touch the ABS sensor right?

thanks!
Old 08-04-2012, 09:07 AM
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Use the one from harbor freight. Also works great for pilot bearings, front wheel bearing seals, trans output seals and pinion seals. If you clamp off the brake line and only do one side at a time its much easier to bleed the brakes when you're done. Remove the abs sensor when installing the new seal. Makes it easier because the seal is metal and the sensor magnetic. To fill the diff when you're done: be sure the truck is level whether on the ground or in the air and fill through top hole until it just wants to overflow

Last edited by j2the-e; 08-04-2012 at 09:09 AM.
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