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Old 02-08-2007, 12:32 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Removing transmission pan....2 quick questions

First time I've done this and all the haynes says is to drain and unscrew the bolts holding the pan on

my questions are:

a) it looks like the dipstick separates in the middle, whats the best way to separate it without damaging it(like I would think pliers would do)

b) do I have to remove the front swaybar? it looks like the pan will not drop unless the swaybar is removed or at least loosened up
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Old 02-08-2007, 12:42 PM   #2 (permalink)
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what make and model please lol.. need info
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Old 02-08-2007, 12:47 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Old 02-08-2007, 01:01 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mason Dixon View Post
First time I've done this and all the haynes says is to drain and unscrew the bolts holding the pan on

my questions are:

a) it looks like the dipstick separates in the middle, whats the best way to separate it without damaging it(like I would think pliers would do)

b) do I have to remove the front swaybar? it looks like the pan will not drop unless the swaybar is removed or at least loosened up
I prefer to pull the dipstick, then undo the one bolt on top holding the dipstick tube to the engine block. After that, just twist and yank on the tube at the same time and it should come free (there's just an o-ring between the two parts). Dropping the sway bar from it's mounts only takes a few seconds and makes it much easier to get the pan on and off (esp important when it's covered in RTV when you go to put it back on) so I would definately do that as well.
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Old 02-08-2007, 01:03 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MTL_4runner View Post
I prefer to pull the dipstick, then undo the one bolt on top holding the dipstick tube to the engine block. After that, just twist and yank on the tube at the same time and it should come free (there's just an o-ring between the two parts). Dropping the sway bar from it's mounts only takes a few seconds and makes it much easier to get the pan on and off (esp important when it's covered in RTV when you go to put it back on) so I would definately do that as well.
thankyou sir
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Old 02-08-2007, 02:10 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Also note that this is a MESSY job. You need to figure on spilling a quart or two of ATF - it's pretty hard not to.

My local Gawd learned me to:
  • Do this cold. It will minimize the amount of ATF stuck up high on the various pieces.
  • Drain as much as you can out of the pan via the drain plug. (NOTE: When it stops dripping, there's still a LOT more in there)
  • Pull all the bolts 'cept for the two middle ones.
  • Loosen the two middles, but leave a couple of threads engaged.
  • Place a large bucket on the ground under the tranny pan.
  • Crack the pan loose from the housing (it's stuck there with RTV) then tilt the pan to one end, draining as much from the pan that you can.
  • Tilt the pan to the other end, doing the same.
  • If you don't have someone to help, then stuff your shoulder up against the pan to hold it flush against the transmission.
  • Remove those last two screws, and practice your Yoga in spinning around and grabbing the pan with your hands, maintaining pressure against the tranny.
  • As level as you can. pull the pan away from the tranny. There's about 1/2 quart of ATF left in it.
  • Dump the pan into the bucket and...
  • ...look behind you 'cause there's a BUNCH of ATF dripping all over the ground.
Now, if you're looking to pull the valve body as well, you'll find even more ATF stuck to things above it, and even MORE ATF _in_ the VB.

It's EVERYWHERE.
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Old 02-08-2007, 02:15 PM   #7 (permalink)
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i'm still stuck getting the stabilizer/sway bar out of the way, one side was rusted up so good I ended up breaking the link and will need another one($$$) and then I need to unfasten the dipstick.....i can't believe there hasn't been a writeup done on this.....everyone makes it seem so easy to just drop the pan
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Old 02-08-2007, 03:19 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mason Dixon View Post
i'm still stuck getting the stabilizer/sway bar out of the way, one side was rusted up so good I ended up breaking the link and will need another one($$$) and then I need to unfasten the dipstick.....i can't believe there hasn't been a writeup done on this.....everyone makes it seem so easy to just drop the pan
You should have soaked the links and bolts in WD40 or PB blaster before trying them. The job is definately alot easier if you live outside the rust belt. I fight with bolts on mine all the time and often snap them off with an impact gun every now and then. Just the price of DIY work.
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Old 02-08-2007, 03:44 PM   #9 (permalink)
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First time is always a bear!!
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Old 02-08-2007, 03:45 PM   #10 (permalink)
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yeah, pbBlaster is def your best friend

I'm still stuck trying to get the dipstick apart, is this a 2 man job? I've got everything loose and off(including the swaybar) and can't get the dipstick to come apart. Any tips?
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Old 02-08-2007, 04:32 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I'm still stuck trying to get the dipstick apart, is this a 2 man job? I've got everything loose and off(including the swaybar) and can't get the dipstick to come apart. Any tips?
Leave it in/on/together... It's fun to fish down, but you can leave it in/on/together.
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Old 02-10-2007, 01:24 PM   #12 (permalink)
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okay, got the tranny pan off after fishing the dipstick down which was actually very easy after i found out why it was getting snagged at the top

man, was my pan dirty! here are a few shots of the pan, as you can see, there is flakes of old tranny oil coated on the inside of the pan, it took a good hour with a wire brush, heavy industrial foaming cleaner, and brake cleaner to get the pan cleaned up



Here is the filter, after a whole can of brake cleaner and carb cleaner the sludge was just too much and I've opted to just get a new filter for 45 bux, there is no way this coming clean




Here is the cleaned up pan, I was lucky in that I didn't find any visible metal flakes in the pan and hopefully my shifting problem will go away with a new filter allowing full flow of tranny fluid through


I should also note that I've got 128k miles
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Old 02-10-2007, 01:38 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Wow, that was in rough shape, I'm surprised the filter could get any fluid through it at all.
Any pics of the valve body? Was the fluid burnt on everywhere inside the tranny?
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Old 02-10-2007, 01:47 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I don't know much about transmissions but the valve body looks to be pretty clean, i'm not sure why the pan and filter was so filthy



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Old 02-10-2007, 02:07 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Wow, very dirty filter and pan. How many miles on that?
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Old 02-10-2007, 02:12 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Wow, very dirty filter and pan. How many miles on that?
I'm guessing it was never cleaned so it is probably 128k on the pan and filter, but the valve body looks to be okay, right?
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Old 02-10-2007, 02:58 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I'm guessing it was never cleaned so it is probably 128k on the pan and filter, but the valve body looks to be okay, right?
Ok, yeah the valve body looks to be fine. Just clean it all as best you can (wipe the pan and mating surfaces down with brake cleaner and a clean rag) and refill with fresh fluid. I'll bet you notice quite a difference after.
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