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Removing front differential

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Old 08-30-2004, 07:38 PM
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Removing front differential

Ok, i got my rear 3rd out and started on my front. Any tips for getting the cv's off of the diff case? Those nuts and bolts are on there. Soaked them with pb and still they wouldnt budge. Any tips for this and any other tips that i am going to need further down the road? I've searched around for some sort of detailed write up on this and couldn't come up with anything so if you know of one please share. Thanks
Old 08-30-2004, 07:46 PM
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chain the front diff to a tree and back up really fast, it will come out

















i think the only way to get it out of there is to take the cv's off the flanges, with the lift it should be easer to get to, keep trying
Old 08-30-2004, 08:17 PM
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So your trying to get the CV's off? Do you have manuel hubs? If not, have someone step on the brakes while you use the "foot method" to get the nuts off, make sure you only use the "foot method" on the outer nuts, the inner bolts are studs which I would pound/press out once everything is off for easier access in the future.
Old 08-30-2004, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by cabbage
So your trying to get the CV's off? Do you have manuel hubs? If not, have someone step on the brakes while you use the "foot method" to get the nuts off, make sure you only use the "foot method" on the outer nuts, the inner bolts are studs which I would pound/press out once everything is off for easier access in the future.
I'm going to need to remove them from the differential case so i can pull the case out and take it to the gear shop. No i dont have manual hubs but i'm really considering getting some soon. I'll probably try the "foot method" tomorrow but i had it to where the axle wouldnt budge and still couldnt loosen the nuts. The studs that you recommend I pound out, just replace them with regular bolts right? Thanks man
Old 08-30-2004, 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by yotafool
I'll probably try the "foot method" tomorrow but i had it to where the axle wouldnt budge and still couldnt loosen the nuts. The studs that you recommend I pound out, just replace them with regular bolts right? Thanks man
After I learned how to use the foot method, anything seems possible Havent ran into anything I cant take apart

Instead of pounding out, just get a deep socket and vice to push the studs out http://www.off-road.com/toyota/cheaptricks/quickcv/ did mine in less than 5 minutes, Im sure you can use regular bolts, I think Cebby used his old ones.

After the CV's are off (if its your first time taking them off, have fun!) disconnect the front driveshaft, people recommend marking everything so you wont get vibration after you put it all together. Then you can remove the differential!
Old 08-30-2004, 10:46 PM
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Another way to get it off is to use the breaker bar and use a metal or galvanized pipe as an extension to break it lose. I use this method to change cv joint all the time. You can get the pipe at home depot for $5. Hope this help
Old 08-31-2004, 03:11 AM
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Originally Posted by ranma21
Another way to get it off is to use the breaker bar and use a metal or galvanized pipe as an extension to break it lose. I use this method to change cv joint all the time. You can get the pipe at home depot for $5. Hope this help
This will work - the longer the bar, the more leverage. They WILL break loose!!
Old 08-31-2004, 08:52 AM
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Assuming the driveshaft is still connected and the front tires are still on the ground, set the park brake and put it in 4wd. I just did mine a couple of months ago. I used a foot long piece of pipe on the wrench (and the "foot method") I also stuck a short piece of 2x2 (wood) under each axle shaft, resting on the lower arms, to support them so the tripod joints dont' come apart by drooping too low. Had to jack a tire and turn the axle over to get the top bolts, etc. Took a while but easy enough to do. Hard part was getting to some of the mount bolts, and it was a beehatch to get the thrid out of there without dropping it. I used 3 cam-buckle tiedowns (one holding each side, one on the pinion) to get it back up in there, and that same method in reverse would have gotten it down more smoothly too. (I have a pic of that but I won't be home for a few days.)
Old 08-31-2004, 10:13 AM
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Yotafool-

Who are you having set-up your gears?

What are they charging you?...if I can ask?

Also, I finally saw your rig with the new bumper...looks great!
Old 08-31-2004, 04:01 PM
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I went ahead and used a blowtorch. They came right off after a little heat. Just took them to the shop a few hours ago. Ranski, thanks i love my TJM. Did you just see me driving or something? I still want to see your rig. Oh and I took them to Angel's transmission off of Merriam drive. They did my clutch and the guy said it was gonna be around 300 or so for the gears and locker setup. It would have been a lot more if i didnt pull the diffs myself.

Last edited by yotafool; 09-04-2004 at 10:57 AM.
Old 08-31-2004, 04:51 PM
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Did you just see me driving or something?
I was over at Target and saw it parked in the lot in front of PetSmart.

Be looking for info in the "Trip Planning" section on a run to Manhattan on the 11th.
Old 08-31-2004, 04:54 PM
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Haha, yeah i work at petsmart. Alright i'll check on it.
Old 09-04-2004, 10:52 AM
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Hey can you guys help me figure out how to remove the stub axles? I just got my diffs back yesterday and was gonna try this quick change cv method before i put it back in.
Old 09-04-2004, 01:42 PM
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I went ahead and just pounded them out with a hammer. I didnt want to do this but i dont think i hurt anything. I just ground the splines off of the bolts and they go in out just fine.
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