SpecializedBrder

OK here's my problem. I've got the 2.7 and I bought headers from LC Engineering and im starting to remove the stock exhaust manifold. Its an old, cracked POS with 185,000 miles on it. I started by removing the nuts on the heat shield and then unbolting the transmission dipstick crossbrace from the engine and bending back while my friend grabbed the heatshield with 2 hammers and started beating it and yanking it out. So once the heatshield was out I took wrenches to all of nuts on the top side of the exhaust manifold. I managed to remove the nuts on 3 of them and the nut and the stud came out on the other. Now I am stuck on the bottom nuts.They are absolutely bonded to either the stud or the exhaust manifold or both. Its rediculous trying to use a ratchet with an extender to try to get these out and I can't get that much leverage. I've been working on the one closest to the firewall for about 2 hrs to no avail and at least its more accessable than the one closer to the front of the car. I'm totally stumped as to what to do

Here's some pics of the dillema and they are color coordinated




I tried putting WD 40 on there and Coke with no luck.It looks like they have become one with the exhaust manifold

RED 85

Did you get new studs and nuts with the header? IF so then use a nut splitter, and they should come off pretty easy, as long as you have enough room to swing the hammer.

ScottFW

WD40 is not a very good rust penetrator. Try picking up some PB Blaster, Kroil, or the like. Even then, it helps to spray the nuts & studs every day for about a week before you try removing them. Just hitting it with the lube right when you need it doesn't allow time for it to penetrate and do its thing.

SpecializedBrder

Yea i've been spraying wd40 on there for the past few days, but your right its definitely not good for removing rust. I'll pick up some penetrating oil today at Autozone and see if it makes a difference.

kwak63603

Yea, what he said. PB Blaster is good stuff. Spray it on, let it soak about 15 min, repeat. also get a breaker bar. It's a must have for manifold removal. Hope you have a torque wrench too. otherwise you'll have exhaust leaks in no time. I torqued mine to 30#, and re-torqued a few hundred miles later. No leaks.

rearviewmirror

I used to take an oxy/acetylene torch to them for a minute then they would usually spin right off.

Schuey2002

OMG!!! I didn't think that I would EVER find a 3RZ-FE that looked dirtier/rustier/fithier than mine..

I NOW have!

Okay, back to the topic at hand. I tried to remove the manifold nuts (or whatever you call them) on my truck, and one came off fine. The next one I tried, both the stud and nut started coming off together, and I must have totally freaked, 'cause I immediately started tightening it..

Now that I know that they come off together (without breaking), I'm going to re-try and take off my manifold (which is cracked 'n rusty after only 66K miles).. This time I'm going to break out the PB blaster and let them soak for a few days (instead of hours or minutes), I guess..

Good luck getting your manifold off. Obtw, why don't you unbolt your air resonator bracket? I've taken mine off several times--just for kicks and giggles--and it comes off everytime. Plus you'll get a tad bit more room to work with..

SpecializedBrder

Yea good idea, I thought it was bolted into the head though?

Any yea my engine is crazy dirty. I took it mudding this summer and i'm still finding mud in random places. Plus with the tons and tons of salt that they dump during the winter rust on all the cars is a given. I bought some PB Blaster today and i'll give it a try. I'm gonna take your advice kwak and buy a breaker bar seeing its only around 10$.

But i must say, Toyota really seemed to have dropped the ball on the 3rz manifold construction. You can see the crack in it right below the pink circle in my picture

kevin444

its about time! I dont see the magnflow hi flow cat on there!! :ROLL:

Schuey2002

Yeah, it is secured to the head via two 12mm bolts..

You don't have to take it off, it will just give you a little more room if you do.

SpecializedBrder

lol it's bolting right up to the header once I get it on there

Yea, Schuey I just went outside and took it off didn't help but you were right.I left that PB buster on there for about 3 hours but its still not budging. I'll just keep doing it all week long I guess

kyle_22r

i think a swivel socket with a long extension will do good on that. my experience with exhaust studs is that if the nut is on there good, it'll just take the stud right out of the head as steel won't rust to aluminum.

bktaco

why not use an E10 (?) torx socket and just take all the bolts out of the head, then replace each of the bolts and nuts altogether going back on.

thanks for the fore-warning tho. i should be getting my LCE headers tomorrow. i guess i should save myself some time and get the torx socket and studs first.

kevin444

i got a e10 torx socket. hit me up if you neeed it.

SpecializedBrder

Well that was a pain. I used the e10 torx socket and broke off the ends of both studs and then used a breaker bar to get the nuts off. One nut and stud came out together and the other stud I used a pair of pliers on. Now comes the big question...how the hell do i get the headers in? the transmission dipstick is in the way and the headers go in at a really weird angle. I'll try to take some pics soon

SpecializedBrder

Well, I finally got the header on and put on the high flow cat. The 2.7 sounds really great w/ the magnaflow exhaust and header combo. It drives 100% better than when I first got it. With the new exhaust system, polyurethane bushings, and rear addco sway bar, it actually gives this 4banger 4runner some balls. Next up on the List is the AEM short ram intake. My Turbo manifold is up for sale in the classifieds if anyone wants it. Decided not to go that route

RockComa

I've ran the lc 2.7 header for 2 years or so and love it. On the rust note though find a boating store near you and get something called penetrol has a nice orange scent to it. I use it in the marine business for salt water rust and corrosion and it makes pb blaster look like cheez whiz. Blaster is good stuff still though

SpecializedBrder

Yea, im impressed with it so far. It definietly picks up a lot faster. That PB Blaster stuff STINKS. It kinda smells like old lady amplified. But whatever as long as it works right?

Kyota

[QUOTE=It kinda smells like old lady amplified. But whatever as long as it works right?[/QUOTE]
Old lady amplified...oh man...