pendrag

('scuse me, my thread title should say 'nut', not bolt)


I started taking off my exhaust manifold this afternoon in preparation for the mini-header install. I've already removed the right PIECE of the manifold, which split in HALF (thanks, Toyota, that was just peachy). The nuts are coming off of the studs fairly easily, albeit with a breaker bar, but no major trouble, thank heaven.

I've got one nut left, on the exhaust pipe (see image) and I'm not sure what I should use to take it off. There isn't enough room to turn a wrench, and I've only got basic tools (combo wrenches, socket set, but no air tools).

I'm happy to go to the store and add a new tool to my box, but what would work in these tight quarters to get this final nut off? Suggestions would be appreciated before I tackle this again tomorrow.

rworegon

It looks like you are taking those nuts off dry....give them a good soak with PB Blaster or another good penetrating oil may make it a bit easier.

Can you get a wratcheting box end wrench in there? Accessible from the bottom or from the opposite direction this picture was taken? Hit it with a long extention and a wobbly before the socket?

pendrag

I've already got them all off dry, except for this last one. The first one looked so clean, I gave it a shot before I sprayed everything down and it came off without too much trouble.

The last one is only accessible from below, and there isn't enough room to turn my ratchet or a wrench. I was thinking about an air ratchet, maybe.

rworegon

Interesting...your area is much tighter than I encountered on my 5vz in the '95 Tacoma. Hopefully someone will chime in soon with the solution for you.

pendrag

It took me a couple trips to the store, but I found what I needed.

To loosen that difficult-to-access nut on the exhaust pipe:
I used an indexable ratchet made by Pittsburgh Tools ($17 on sale at Harbor Freight). It's a cheapie tool, but it seemed to actually be pretty well-made. The indexable ratchet gave me an angle I could work with, but I still needed to get a 1 foot length of 1.25" (1" might also work, but it may damage the rubber grip) pipe to give me the leverage needed to break the nut loose. Once it was loose, the indexable ratchet was very useful, because you can unlock the head and pump the handle up and down to turn the 14 mm socket. I was pleased with the purchase.




To remove studs from the engine block:

After I got all the nuts off, I still couldn't remove the manifold piece because of the studs sticking out of the block, EGR tube, and exhaust pipe. To remove the studs from the block, you will need a E10 star socket. E9 might also work, but the set I bought at Harbor Freight only included an E8 (too small) and an E10 (just slightly loose). The set at Harbor Freight was on clearance for $9, and included:
"7 star E-sockets and 9 Torx star bits. Chrome vanadium steel E-socket sizes E6, E7, E8, E10, E12, E14, and E16. S-2 steel Torx bit sizes T10, T15, T20, T25, T30, T40, T45, T50, T55. Includes bit adapter and carrying case."

rworegon

Good work! I could use a wratched like that at times too.

profuse007

I like to lube penetrate it couple of times over a day or two. Just pop the hood and spray it. WD40 or any other lube penetrator.

I took a regular box-end wrench and pop it open. No snag at all.