Bang

I have a 1999 4-Runner Limited with 175K miles on it. I have owned it since about 109K.

It started losing coolant. It was not going into the oil and nothing visible in the exhaust.

Within about a week (as I was topping off coolant trying to determine if it was really a consistent loss) it started misfiring on Cylinder 3 (P0303).

A local shop ran a block test, which passed, so they determined it must be spark or fuel. Spark passed so they replaced the injectors. Still misfires.

They then pressurized cylinder 3 and got bubbles in the radiator.

They don't know if it's a head, head gasket, or the block, though they say it's pretty unlikely it's the block.

They recommend against doing just the head since it will be new and the rest of the motor is, well, not. They claim they can't warranty it because it might develop a knock or something else (?).

Their recommendation is a rebuilt or used motor.

The body and interior are in good shape, so I'm really torn whether to put a rebuilt motor in it or not. I really like this truck.

I have basically decided against a used motor due to the labor costs involved. If I'm going to replace it, it's going to be with a rebuilt motor unless something shows up with like 60K or fewer miles on it.

I guess I have some specific questions:

1) Is recommending against doing the head sound advice or BS?

2) Is there a reliable source of rebuilt motors? About how much would be a good price for the shipped motor?

3) Anything else appreciated.

brian2sun

After having mine rebuilt and having to take it back to the shop several times (under warranty) for stuff like a valve adjustment and a leaky rear main, I would recommend going with a used motor. You could get a high quality rebuilt motor from a place like Jasper, but that's just not cost effective for the overall value of our trucks IMO. If it was maintained 1/2 way decently, a used 100K (or so) motor will likely run another 10 years since it's a Toyota. Many used motors come with some kind of warranty too. And it'll cost 1/4 -1/3 as much as a good rebuild.

After all my rebuild troubles, I still have a miss.. and my rear main is leaking again!! I ended up having to demand my money back and threaten to get an attorney involved. They ended up giving me back 80% of my money to avoid court and I took it and ran.

I've since got my hands on a used 127K motor I found from a buddy for $500. I know the history on it and it has been well maintained. I'll be putting that motor in in the next few months hopefully, maybe even use the rest of the money to supercharge it since I'll likely be putting it in myself this time!

mattbatson

used gets my vote too.

think about it.
These motors, as built by toyota, are for the most part bulletproof.
There are exceptions of course, but from my experience with many different types of cars and trucks, I just cant say enough about these 4runner's.

If you have some local shop rebuild it, you arent going to get the same toyota quality in both assembly nor materials. The factory is always a better bet in my opinion.


You can find used ones all day long with under 100K, and I've seen several on car-parts.com with under 60K

Bang

Something to think about.

So the consensus is don't bother doing the head?

mattbatson

I would prefer to have a factory head with 80K miles on it, then one that has 0 miles but was rebuilt by some local shop.

just my opinion.

Bang

How do you know you're buying a good used motor? What total suck. I see nothing but scammers and fraudsters. I just know I'm going to get ripped off.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

The reason to avoid doing the head only

Is the added compression from a fresh valve job. Same as a new head is known to put added stress on the old lower end. ( bearings) Causing a bearing to go in any where from a few hours to a few days.

Used motors can go both ways unless you know the vehicle it came out of. That is a call only you can make

Bang

So there is some merit to what they're saying? Good. That helps.

I think I've decided to try to get a used motor from lkqcorp.com. Will discuss with the shop tomorrow. I sure wish I was equipped to swap it out myself.

I cannot see finding anything I like as much as this truck for the price to swap a "new" motor in. Having your car basically totalled with no insurance compensation freaking blows.

Texas_Ace

Don't mess with just the heads, i have seen far too many motors have the head done just to loose the bottom end a few months later.

Do the whole motor. Personally i would go with a used motor but if you really want to rebuild then you can do that as well.

Swapping a motor is really not that hard, sure you can't do it yourself? With a friend to help, basic shop tools and an engine lift you should be able to do it in a long weekend or 2. A $100 engine lift is a lot cheaper then the labor to have someone else install it.

Bang

Ok. That's basically what the shop said. Good to have confirmation.

If I try to do the work right now I will just make a bad situation worse. Guaranteed. And I don't really have a place to do it. I hate to spend the money but I really don't have any choice.

Thanks, guys.

J2F42C

I have a friend who got his valves seals redone at 100k (two went south on him bad) and at 169K today, his engine is fine. But that was for valves, and the bottom end was good at that time.

Given your miles, the used engine makes more sense. Keep us updated.

Bang

I struggled with the decision for a few days then had them put a used motor from a 2000 in. They were told it had 86K on it. All is back like it was when I bought it. New injectors (they had installed them after it passed the first block test so they used them on the "new" one), new timing belt, and should be good to go another 100K. (fingers crossed.)

Is there any way to tell by looking at the motor if it came from a CA or Federal emissions vehicle? Is there any difference from the exhaust manifold forward?