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95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

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Old 03-21-2007, 06:03 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Rear Window rolls down, but won't go back up

First off, does anyone know how to get the window back up manually since I can't get it back up with the switch?

Also, anyone know what could be the culprit of why the window can roll down (with the switch) but not back up? I tested the switch and the switch is OK. And obviously the motor is working (at least in the down position) - what else can I check/test? Could the motor be bad in just the UP direction?

I have also tested the voltage going into the motor. When I have the switch in the down position, the voltage between the green wire and ground reads 11.75. When I put the switch in the UP position, I don't get a reading at all. Anyone know what the voltage should be with the switch in the UP position?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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Old 03-21-2007, 07:50 PM   #2 (permalink)
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The two wires float at ground and one or the other is changed to +12V to move the window one way or the other. If you're only testing between one wire and ground for both directions you'll get voltage for that direction and none for the other. Test the other wire when you hold the switch up and that'll tell you if you're getting voltage in the right direction.
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Old 03-21-2007, 08:01 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Mine did the samething.
Marko helped me figure it out .
Take the switch out and find the two terms with voltage. Like stated earlier ones a + and the others a - 12v.
I used my timing jumper to go from the one voltage to the other terminals till i got the window to move. Remember the one that moves the window. This is the "main terminal" that is used to switch the voltages back and forth for movement. Stick your jumper end in and then remove your voltage end.

Switch voltages and the window goes in the other direction.
My switch showed good cont, too but none the less was inoperable.
Still on the look out for a good known working one already bought a few on eBay that turned out to be just as bad.
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Old 03-21-2007, 08:11 PM   #4 (permalink)
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My '91 would do the same thing when it was cold out (below 50). I believe it was a bad $2 relay on the rear window control module. Couldn't find a replacement relay so i picked up another control module off a '94 from the junk yard for $40. Worked fine ever since.
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Old 03-22-2007, 03:01 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reggie 00 View Post
Mine did the samething.
Marko helped me figure it out .
Take the switch out and find the two terms with voltage. Like stated earlier ones a + and the others a - 12v.
I used my timing jumper to go from the one voltage to the other terminals till i got the window to move. Remember the one that moves the window. This is the "main terminal" that is used to switch the voltages back and forth for movement. Stick your jumper end in and then remove your voltage end.

Switch voltages and the window goes in the other direction.
My switch showed good cont, too but none the less was inoperable.
Still on the look out for a good known working one already bought a few on eBay that turned out to be just as bad.
Are you talking about the (white) wire terminal block that connects into the switch? If I rememeber correctly, there are 5 pins. So what you are saying is to determine which terminal has the +12V and which has the -12V? I could be wrong but I don't think any of those terminals at the switch will be -12V. I was able to find the one that was +12 and short it to the terminal contact for the down position. I tried to short the other one, but it wouldn't go up. Would this indicate that the controller module is bad? How much are those to replace?
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Old 03-22-2007, 03:08 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isaac338 View Post
The two wires float at ground and one or the other is changed to +12V to move the window one way or the other. If you're only testing between one wire and ground for both directions you'll get voltage for that direction and none for the other. Test the other wire when you hold the switch up and that'll tell you if you're getting voltage in the right direction.
Here's what I don't understand:

With the switch in the "down" position, I tried to measure the voltage between the green and red wires that feed the motor. I get no reading. I then took a reading from the (I think it was the green wire) to ground and measured 11.75V. I then put the switch in the UP position, and again, I couldn't get a reading between the two wires, and I also had no reading from the red wire to ground. Do you know what the voltage needs to be across which wires to get the window back UP?
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Old 03-22-2007, 05:04 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Runner4 View Post
Do you know what the voltage needs to be across which wires to get the window back UP?
Close to battery voltage so about 12V or so. Get some wire and briefly apply straight battery voltage to the motor wires and see if you can get the window to go up or down. If you can then 9 times out of 10, you need a new switch or relay (don't just rely on continuity because the switch or relay could still have continuity, but it might be worn to the point that it causes too much of a voltage drop to operate the window anymore).
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Old 03-22-2007, 06:54 AM   #8 (permalink)
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^switches in automotive are never high amperage. high amperage cause arcing. therefore, theyre controlled through relays w/ low current

the window motor is two wire, reverse polarity, as it seem on my 2000.

if i were to guess, there is something wrong w/ either the switch or the controller (that have relays) locates in the hatch.

there are two wires to test to eliminate the culprit of the switch or the controller. I will post a pic later tonight.
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Old 03-22-2007, 09:41 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
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^switches in automotive are never high amperage. high amperage cause arcing. therefore, theyre controlled through relays w/ low current
.. which is why window switches always go bad. they get full of carbon from the arcing. at least in the 86-95 pickups and 2nd gen runners, there's no window relays at all (except for the tailgate window). all the contact is made through the switch itself.
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Old 03-22-2007, 11:15 AM   #10 (permalink)
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^switches in automotive are never high amperage. high amperage cause arcing. therefore, theyre controlled through relays w/ low current.
Good point (I changed mine above to reflect relays in there), but even at low amperage, the tiny bit of arcing will still kill a switch. Similarly, the problem is likely in the relay or switch if you can get the motor to work fine just using straight battery voltage.
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Old 03-22-2007, 04:20 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I couldn't find the note anymore but it should be negative. Use a voltmeter to check.
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 03-22-2007, 08:50 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Runner4 View Post
Are you talking about the (white) wire terminal block that connects into the switch? If I rememeber correctly, there are 5 pins. So what you are saying is to determine which terminal has the +12V and which has the -12V? I could be wrong but I don't think any of those terminals at the switch will be -12V. I was able to find the one that was +12 and short it to the terminal contact for the down position. I tried to short the other one, but it wouldn't go up. Would this indicate that the controller module is bad? How much are those to replace?
I could swear one was pos and one was neg. Used a VM to test it. I will double check mine tomorrow. I still have access to it, as i cant find a good used switch .
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Old 03-23-2007, 03:17 AM   #13 (permalink)
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OK, I was able to get the window back up. I put the switch in the down position and reversed the wires (with jumpers) that went into the motor. So atleast I know that the motor works. I also tried to bypass the switch by jumpering the wire block terminal leads for the UP/Down positions. I found the +12V terminal and jumped it to one of the terminals and the window went down. I tried jumpering it to the other terminals, but I couldn't get the window to go back up. I guess I just proved that the switch is OK since manually jumpering the terminal block didn't work either. It's gotta be the control module. I looked for this control module on a few 4Runner parts websites, but I couldn't find one. Anyone have any suggestions where I can find one? Any ideas of what the cost will be? I really enjoy having the ability to roll the rear window down on the 4Runner, so I definately want to get it fixed.

Thanks
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Old 03-23-2007, 03:49 AM   #14 (permalink)
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I know my 89 4 runner has done same thing but it was from the switches being gummed up with spilled coffee etc. Are your switches in a low flat spot that can collect grunge? I sprayed contact cleaner on the window and rear wiper switch while operating them repeatedly then when they were working ok and the contact cleaner had drained out/evaporated I gave them a little shot of wd-40. I just flooded around the rocker part of the switch as I toggled it and the cleaner found its way inside.Also, I think there is some logic to do with the rear wiper and window movement.
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Old 03-23-2007, 04:29 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I didnt read all that , but My switch didnt work I took it apart & clean the contacts in about 5 minutes .
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Old 03-23-2007, 06:59 AM   #16 (permalink)
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There is someone on here selling a bunch or rear window parts. Might see if what they have is compatible.
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Old 03-23-2007, 06:59 AM
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