halloran

Well I've narrowed my oil leak down to the rear main seal in my 2001 4runner. Engine has just shy of 140k on it. I guess my question is do I replace just the rear main seal while I have the engine out? Or should I do all the gaskets and tear the whole damn thing apart? Any guidance would be appreciated to those who have either replaced their rear main seal and to those who have freshened up the entire engine.

thanks much!

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

Fix the rear main seal. Why "refresh" a good running engine with only 140k miles?

rattlewagon

I think it would be easier to drop the trans and change the rear main with the engine still in the truck.

ThorInc

Make sure to use genuine Toyota seals and make sure the dealership provides you with the correct seals.

Texas_Ace

This^. Drop the trans and do the main from there. No reason to touch the rest of the engine.

While the trans is out would be a perfect time for get a high stall converter as well, makes a world of difference if you want a little more umph, only thing worth doing NA.

halloran

Looks like there's a few seals in and around the rear main. There's the big "O" rear main seal and then there's an upper plate "U" shaped gasket and a lower portion as well. Should I do those gaskets while I'm in there too? Toyota dealer says they typically just do the rear main seal and don't touch the gaskets but my assumption is to just do what I can while I'm in there. Thanks again! Also, for the higher stall converter do you have a recommendation? A part number or a link to one on the web? I know the 5vz-fe isn't known for great power unless it's supercharged and anything to give it a little more get up and go sure would be nice!

Texas_Ace

I would just worry with the seal that is leaking personally, if it ain't broke don't fix it and all that.

Far as the converter, if you are looking for a bit more oomph it does help, basically removes that lull for the first ~2500-3000rpm's. Cost is city driving RPM's are a bit higher but highway is the same.

Cut about a second off my 1/4 mile time.

These guys can redo the stock converter for about $200 last I checked: http://www.greatconverters.com/

halloran

Awesome thanks so much as soon as I get the torque converter out I'll drain the piss out of it and ship it out. Does anyone have a good writeup on removing the transmission from the 5vz fe? Should I drop just the trans or remove the trans and bellhousing as one unit? I can't imagine this taking all too long I just want to make sure there's nothing I need to be made aware of before I start unbolting everything. Does the front diff need to come out too? Thanks again! I'm hoping to start on this today. I picked up the RMS from Toyota stealership $45.00 lol what a joke.

Thanks!

Texas_Ace

Use the FSM for how to remove it, worked fine for me. Front diff is fine, hardest part are those 2 stinking bolts on the top of the bell housing. Yes, pull the whole trans with bell housing as 1 piece.

halloran

I disconnected the 4 bolts from the rear diff but the yoke won't pull out. FSM to just remove the 4 bolts from the rear diff then to pull the yoke. Do I need to remove the 4 nuts from the yoke too? I have an a340e.

Thanks

Texas_Ace

IIRC I had to really pry that sucker out, it has a snap ring that doesn't want to let go. Pry bar is your friend but make sure all the bolts are disconnected. FSM is usually right. One end of the driveshaft just pops off with the bolts, the other is inserted. No idea which is which.

halloran

This is becoming a nightmare by the minute. Nowhere in the FSM even in the 4wd section does it show the transfer case. I'm guessing it's the transfer case that's connected to the rear of the tranny and in nowhere in the FSM does it even show that there's two propellor shafts. One that goes from the diff to the transfer case and another one that goes from the tranny forward to the engine. This is a real bitch and nothing in the FSM is even close to what I have going on here. All the studs are breaking on the exhaust pipes so all that stuff is going to have to come out now...

Texas_Ace

I bet you have a 2wd FSM, Mine has a section for the transfer case, "propeller shaft" and all that jazz. Got to flip around in it a bit but it is all there. Try finding another one. mine is a 1996-2002 runner.

halloran

I got it figured out. There's a whole separate section that addresses the transfer case and removing the console components, shift lever and all that stuff. The tranny removal part doesn't reference the transfer case removal first which MUST be done prior to removing the transmission. Anyone know what size the 3 studs are on the downpipe flange? I think the lock nuts are 14mm.

Texas_Ace

most of the exhaust bolts are 14mm.

halloran

One last question I hope. Since the front diff basically blocks any access to the flywheel dust cover plate I want to know if the plate has to be removed in order to disconnect the bellhousing from the engine. Thanks again!

Texas_Ace

I did not have to mess with the diff when I removed my transmission. The hard part are the top 2 bolts, the rest can be reached without too much through with extensions and universal joints.

halloran

The top bolts weren't all too bad to access. I needed about 3 feet worth of extensions but I got to them relatively easy. TBH the most difficult bolts to get out were the top bolts that mounted the transfer case to the tranny. I basically had to get to them from the interior of the vehicle with a long wrench.

After a long and arduous couple of days the rear main seal ISN'T leaking...it's almost like a cruel joke. It looks like the rear part of the oil pan gasket is the culprit which made it look like it was the rear main seal. Since I have done all this work basically for nothing should I just go ahead and replace the rear main seal while I have the new one? I mean the thing looks good but it's been in there for 140k miles. Any tricks to getting the oil pan out without pulling the entire engine? Thanks again you guys are the best! I'm going to bed soon now that my body is all bruised and beaten from rolling over loose sockets, extension cords and wrenches all day I need to recover.

Texas_Ace

ouch, sucks. I would elave it alone personally. Seals are better offer left alone unless messing with them anyways IMO.

ThorInc

Solid advice...