Scottiac

Hey, several of my rear hatch electrical gizmos are defunct. Notably, the rear-window defrost, windshield wiper, and windshield sprayer, but NOT the rear window up/down.

Any ideas? My g/f admitted to slamming the hatch pretty hard, so jarring the heck out of it is not out of the question.

Anyone know if there's a single fuse that controls that combination of controls? (Chilton's is *so* darn helpful! )

Thanks!

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Scott
'97 4runner LTD. SC, URD, Tundra/OME (SS #7), TJM-15 bumper, BruceTS rear bumper, trail carnage skid plates, stubbs sliders, cobra 18wxstii cb, 99 headlights, upgraded headlight wiring, maglite mod, aux fuse boxes, Airaid MIT, Hayden tranny cooler, deckplate, parts for entirely too many mods lying around...

instigator

make sure that the button to restrict control of the other windows is up. this button is located at the drivers door control. and if it doesnt work i dont have any other clue for you, sorry

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97 fzj80 w/TP(gulf coast 01jr) oil filter
96 4runner (2wd) w/TP(frantz) oil filter

waskillywabbit

The only thing that DOES work...is the rear window up/down. :pat:

Try your owner's manual for the listing of your fuses and a diagram of the fuse box and see if there is one listed for those now defunct accessories. I bet there is!

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TDiddy

Naah, he said that up/down was still good. Sounds like a job for a multimeter. Are the fuses separate for that stuff from the window itself?

TDiddy

Geez Brian, mind reader are we??

waskillywabbit

I hear the Twilight Zone theme playing in the background....

__________________
WabFab Off-Road, LLC
www.myspace.com/wabfab

FOR SALE: 1987 4Runner GRAY
FOR SALE: 1987 4Runner RED

6th Annual South East 4Runner Jamboree, May 22-25, 2009

Scottiac

Good heavens.

No wonder I usually only post at night. Even I can't read what I wrote. Yes, the power window up/down works perfectly.

The defrost button doesn't work. When I hit it, I hear the relay "click", but the light on the switch doesn't light up (and the defrosters don't come up).

The rear window wiper control doesn't work, either for operating the arm, or for activating the rear window sprayer.

I tried getting into the connector at the top left of the rear hatch assembly to see if the junction there got jarred loose, but it was smarter than me on that first attempt.


And just for entertainment... My 12V DC outlet up front popped its little fuse link wire (running a Truck aire cheapo compressor, I think) and I finally got around to dissecting it to find the problem.

So I thought, hey cheap looking part, a few bucks to replace the assembly, and on my way! First stop, auto parts store... hmmm. no appropriate looking parts there. Maybe to the stealer tomorrow.

Bopped into the dealer bright and early this morning... They want $33 bucks to order a replacement for it! Like NO man!

Anyone know the amperage for the fuse link wire there? I'm going to make at least a token attempt to fix it correctly and not just bridge that darn thing. 15A leaps to mind from a previous post.

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Scott
'97 4runner LTD. SC, URD, Tundra/OME (SS #7), TJM-15 bumper, BruceTS rear bumper, trail carnage skid plates, stubbs sliders, cobra 18wxstii cb, 99 headlights, upgraded headlight wiring, maglite mod, aux fuse boxes, Airaid MIT, Hayden tranny cooler, deckplate, parts for entirely too many mods lying around...

white yota

my 02, if the window isn't all the way closed both the defrost, and wipers won't work until window is all the way up.

lee

i sure hope that wasnt a complaint!

Hermes

I agree w/ what white yota said. I ran into this when I had my alarm installed. It sounds like your window is not fully closed as that would disable all the features you say are not working. If the window is all the way up, then I would suspect that the sensor or contact for the window in the closed position has been dislodged or died.

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'01 4Runner SR5

midiwall

Yeup... I just had my rear hatch apart... There's a limit switch built into the gear drive mechanism. If this switch isn't closed, then the wiper and defrosters won't work.

It's possible that when the hatch got slammed, the limit switch got jarred out of whack.

The rear door panel comes off like a regular door panel (i.e., pops off from keeprs), then there are a number of 10mm bolts that you pull out to get full access to the mechanism. The switch (on mine) is light green, and camps out about 4" to the right of the mating gear between the motor and the large gears on the up/down mechanism.

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~ Mark
'96 4Runner Limited S/C MI - 370cc injectors, Air! horns, Airaid MIT, ATS A-arms, 285/75/R16 BFG MTs, Bored TB, Brembo slotted, Cobra 75 WXST, Deckplate, Downey headers, Hayden cooler, IPT valve body, Level 10 torque convertor, Meanstreak exhaust, OME/OME rears, On-board PC (XM, Nav, WiFi, etc), Port 'n Polish, Remote Start, SAW fronts, Hilux console, SMT-5, Stubb's sliders, Supra MAF, TJM-17, 2.0" pulley, Viair 450c, Walbro 190, Weasy2k cams

Scottiac

Excellent suggestions! That ought to keep me busy for a bit.

Thanks to all!

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Scott
'97 4runner LTD. SC, URD, Tundra/OME (SS #7), TJM-15 bumper, BruceTS rear bumper, trail carnage skid plates, stubbs sliders, cobra 18wxstii cb, 99 headlights, upgraded headlight wiring, maglite mod, aux fuse boxes, Airaid MIT, Hayden tranny cooler, deckplate, parts for entirely too many mods lying around...