YM13

When i was adjusting my rear drum brakes I found that oil was leaking from behind into the brake cylinder causing oil to cake on the pads...I checked to see how much it would cost to get a new seal installed and it is around $450 so i'm gonna try doing it myself...I would really really appreciate it if someone gave me some tips...maybe did it themselves? any information would be nice. The tools I need, pointers, tips, don't-do's....any information would be nice!

Thanks

marko3xl3

From our own "tech write-ups" section (search next time, please):

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f128/replacing-rear-axle-seals-3rd-gen-4runner-76339/

Have fun

harpen123

its not a huge ordeal I changed that seal in about 30 min. I used a can of spraypaint took the nozzle off and used a rubber hammer to put the seal in. try and use one about the same size as the seal.

YotaFun

WOW $450 for just one side.....
I have a guy near me that is gonna be able to do the job for about $580...
And he is doing boths sides inner, outer, and the bearing....

I have read throguh the forum about this problem, and some people who just replaced the outter seal still have leakage, which they persume is then the inner seal.....

And since I am told it requires a press of some sort to do inner seal and bearing....
I am just taking it to the guy....

Unhappy99

read this recent thread beginning at post #9

4runnerchick

I too have had this problem. I tried to fix it myself by replacing the seals. Although I succesfully replaced both axle seals that wasn't the problem apparently. I ended up taking it in and having the bearings replaced as well. I had to replace my brakes twice because my first attempt didn't work considering I just replaced the seals. My brother has a Tacoma and he noticed fluid leaking out onto his tire yesterday. Today he took it in to a shop and they said that it was actually the bearing that went out. This seems to be a common problem. Make sure that you check the bearings just in case.
1 trip to Toyota cost me $700 just to replace one side! (Bearing, seal, brakes)

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte...wheel_bearing/
That site was very helpful with the seals.

Good luck!

YM13

wow...I hope the seals are my problem but they probably arn't from what peple are talking about...I think what happened to me is I blew either the bearing or the seal by going through some water with my breather clogged up because I noticed the leak about a week after I did that...bummer....I really hope it is the seal and not the bearing becaue the bearing looks pretty hard to replace without having the proper tools...

Thanx for the site it clarified some things for me...

YotaFun

Anyone who furthur reads this post..

Do not get this repair done at a stealership!!!

The wanted close to $1K for the job!

I have another mechaninc doing it for half the price!

Look at the price list!!!

They don't just replace the Bearing and seals.
They replace all of these, when they nessisarily don't have to be replaced.
They always try to drill you for every cent you have for that particualr job....

Ironmike4x4

To do it yourself.... lots of good tools, lots of paitences, read up on it before hand, READ AND STUDY the procedures and do one side at a time. If you are fairly mechanically inclined then it's an okay job. I cheated when I did mine. I did it at the dealership I worked for and had a Master tech in case I ran into trouble. I never had to call him over.

YM13

Yah since I think it is the outer seal (which i believe to have to take out the bearing to replace?) i'm just gonna go to a junkyard and salvage the whole axle part that comes out and and try my luck with that and then replace the inner seal which is pretty easy to do (from what i'm told). I havn't even been able to find the seals yet...if anyone knows where I can get them from or has a part number that would be excellent

Thanks for all suggestions and help

Ironmike4x4

I don't recommend them now, but I got my seals from autozone and they had to special order them. I would just pay the rape fee from the stealer and get a true quality seal. Also when you put the seal in, be sure to go slow and easy on them. Fortunately for me I had access to a seal driver at the dealer I worked for and didn't worry about puncturing them.

YM13

This reminds me to ask how long you think i should be able to drive the car without changing the seals...its been a week since i discovered the problem and the brake cylinder wasn't really covered in grease allthough there was a good bit...can't really describe it...lets just say it isn't pouring out oil....do you think i should maybe keep topping it off a little or do you suggest just not driving the truck at all. Also I read that you can bang the end of the wheel bearing in order to get it loose but anytime there is some kind of big force involved i'm always skeptical of breaking something and making things worse. All in all how bad is this oil leak?

YotaFun

I would like to know as well if anyone has the answer, dude to money issues, it might be two weeks before I can get to it...

petros

It's been well over two weeks since I noticed mine was leaking, and up to this point I haven't had any problems. Keep in mind though, the brake shoes are most likely saturated in oil, so braking power is significantly less.

I'm just guessing that in an emergency maneuver where a slam on the brakes is necessary, there might be problems with the one wheel not slowing as fast as the rest. I could also be totally wrong though (and that's what I'd like to think!) which is my excuse to keep driving it.

I went and bought a new inner seal today, Kragen even had them in stock for something like $9. My dad says he's done them before and it's easy work if you know what you're doing, so he gets to do it now. When the wheel is off I'll check the bearing, and hope that it's not the problem. Since so many people are having problems with the inner seal leaking after changing it out, I'm not changing my brake shoes for a few days after the seal is changed, just to see if it's still leaking. At least it's not a waste of brake shoes too. Gives me an excuse to bleed the brakes all around too.

YM13

what are the chances that the dif. fluid will get low to a critical point? or does that not happen? (should I fill in little amounts of fluid every week or so unti i get it fixed?)

Jason B

Here is the inner seal removed.


How pretty.

On jackstands:



This was the best write-up I found, but I read them all. This is specifically for models with ABS, which makes a little difference, well, it's just a little trickier to get the inner seal out on models with abs.

https://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech...m1_oilseal.htm

It wasn't bad at all. I took my time and had a friend help me pull the axel out. I wanted to make sure I kept it real steady when pulling it out.

All the time as spent on cleaning up all the oil soaked stuff, wheel, drums, etc.

Some other tips that worked great.

Make a note of these:

1) "I did find out if you put the new axle seal in the freezer for about 10 minutes, it shrinks just enough to easly slide back in the place of the old one. The seals are very hard to fit back in if you dont do this and they have to go in perfect or you might damage it."
by Jataga

2) "You'll need to bleed the wheel cylinder on that side. That's probably my least favorite part of the job.

You can try gravity bleeding it by just leaving the bleeder screw open and draining into a cup while keeping an eye on the master cyl. to make sure it doesn't run dry. It doesn't drain very fast, but keep an eye on it.
Gravity bleeding usually works, but if not you can have your friend step on the brake pedal an hold it, while you crack open the bleeder to let the pressure out, then close the bleeder, and have your friend let back off the brake. A few cycles of that after gravity bleeding should do the trick.

Don't let the master cylinder run dry and don't let your buddy let off the brake while you have the bleeder open. Either one will introduce more air into the system instead of get it out.
If you're going to be working on your (or a buddies) truck and bleeding/flushing brakes, buy a motive products power bleeder. Its worth it."
by Erik

3) Buy some rubber vacuum caps from Advance auto to plug your brake line after you disconnect it.
7/32in. part # 47392, about $2.



I just had a a friend bleed it at the back when I stepped on the brake pedal. This whole process for the bleeding took 1 min exact, very easy with two people.

Mason Dixon

how do you tell if the bearing is bad?

sworxx

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...97&catalogid=1

Are these the Toyota parts? I am very surprised they are less then elsewhere, or are they incorrect? Anyone have the actual Toyota part numbers for these axle seals, o-rings or whatever they are called?

if these are the correct seals for the axle, it might make it easier for people to find them.

Ps. Mine are blown too.

CU4runnerSR5

Hey guys, I have the same problem. I replaced my rear shoes only to notice a hard pull to the left during braking a few weeks later. I took the drums off again and noticed axle grease all over the passenger side shoes. The outer axle seal was leaking. I had to remove the axle shaft and take it to a machine shop, where the had to press out the bearing to replace the seal. I had them replace the bearing as well. It cost about $175 for parts and labor I believe. I replaced the inner axle seal and O-ring while I was at it. Six months later, I noticed a pull to the other side. Same story, opposite side. Seems funny that both outer seals would fail within six months of each other. So now I am replacing the shoes on both sides again, since they were contaminated with oil. As far as the differential fluid becoming too low, I was concerned about the same thing. I let it go for 2 months because I didn't have the money. The differential fluid didnt' seem to have lost very much during that time. However, I think Petros is right about the emergency maneuver. If you have to hit the brakes hard, it will pull hard to one side and will not stop as fast. This could be especially bad in the snow or if someone else is driving your truck. Let me know if I can answer any questions about it.

crbocaj125

Well, I have read for 3 or 4 hours on this subject. I have a seal problem.

My rear brakes were sticking, so I took them to the shop next door to my work. They called me 15 minutes later to tell me the news: Axle bearings bad, $841 to fix inner and outer seals, I didn't see bearings on the estimate.

They were going to send them to a different shop to get pressed anyway. During the first 3 hours of reading, I thought that all I had to do was do the inners myself, sounds easy. The last post I read on an older thread though, made it clear that if the fluid is in the brakes, I need both seals, and the bearings done. I think that I am just going to get the parts myself, and drop those and both sides off at a qualified shop, and pay them to replace them.

I just wish I had something else to drive while mine is on stands. I also just moved into my first place with a garage, and I have ZERO tools. but I guess I only need the wheel off and four bolts to get when I need off.