ETRNL

so i took off my drum the other day just to check my brakes and my driverside drum was full of grease. (or oil mixed with brake dust) any how i know i need to change my seals but do i need to change my bearings as well? there is no whining at all and the only smell is comong from the contaminated brake shoes that i will be changing after i change the seals. i plan on changing them this weekend and so far as part numbers go this is what i have.

bearing PN 90363-40068 $72.88
Inner seal PN 90310-5005 $13.90
outer seal PN 90311-54006 $16.17

so i guess my questin is at 180,000 miles will i be ok with just changing the seals untill the economy gets better or do i have to change the bearings as well?

nc994run

You won't be able to do the bearings yourself unless you have a press. Usually if the seals are gone, the bearing gets saturated with gear oil. You should be ok without changing the bearing, but it should be done eventually

Rick F.

Funny, I was checking around while doing an oil change today and noticed some oil dripping onto my rear passenger wheel. Been noticing a bit of noise while rolling at low speeds the past week or 2. Guess I'll be looking into mine as well...

Ritzy4Runner

iTrader: (1)

I had the same issue when I did my preunderways for my trip to SoCal, oil/filter change, check undersides and rotate the tires. I noted that my drivers side rear wheel was covered in oil/grease and had the smell of burnt gear oil. That was the rear seal. I had an after market warranty on my truck so I had the dealership do it and it saved me some time. I had to replace my rear brakes as well as once saturated, they are toast! If you are not having any run out issues or noise coming from the bearings you should not have to worry about them. They are sealed and you will need a press to fit them as well. So unless you really need to replace the bearings you should be fine. The upside for me was I had issues with National Insurance already with this truck on a transfer case problem last winter. The finance manager who helped me resolve the issue that they said they would not cover took care of me and told service to replace my brakes and to charge it to his account. Then service found my valve cover gaskets leaking as well (which is also a covered part) and replaced them and the rear valve cover 1/2 moon seals as well. Total price was almost $1000, my actual out of pocket $50. they may refer to them as "stealerships" but I can't complain about mine. Good Luck

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

You have to remove the bearing to do the center seal, so you should replace the bearing while you are in there.

You will also have to replace the lock collar and the snap ring, since they get damaged when being removed.

The few extra dollars is worth the added insurance and peace of mind, not to mention not having to take it back apart again when the bearing goes out.

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

You have to have a press anyways to do the middle seal, so its a moot point.

ETRNL

ok so does someone have an exploded parts breakdown? so that i know what im doing and dont cause myself more work. i plan on doing this this weekend and picking up the parts on friday.

cnmrosko

I can't believe the prices that dealerships are charging for parts.
I usually find mine here for about 35% less...http://www.1sttoyotaparts.com/part_number.html (click on "OEM parts catallogue")


It should only take about a half hour to pull the axle.

You are gonna need someone with a press to take the old bearing off and push it or a new one back on. If you have abs you will need to cut and chizel the old ring off and press a new abs ring and two retainer compression rings, You should have a tool to press them on also. If you have to take it to a machine shop I wouldn't try doing it on a weekend.

You also should consider getting the maintenance shop manual for your truck.

hross14

Is there an inner bearing seal on the rear axle? I only change the one in the axle---am i missing something here?

But it doesnt leak (After the seal change()and hopefully soon i will be going full float.

cnmrosko

The inner axle oil seal is located about 3" or 4" inside the end of the axle housing opening. There is also an oil seal on the outside of the bearing case that sandwiches up against the wheel backing plate. There is also a rubber O ring that seals the end of the axle housing where it meets the wheel backing plate. See above illustration...

hross14

Yeah i know about those--i guess i just never changed them??Not broke dont fix it?

Changed the ones in the ends of the axles and leaks dissapear.

ETRNL

so the bearing case come off of the axle and backing plate so i can put it in a press to install the new bearing correct? in other words i dont have to drop my axle?

dirtoyboy

no the housing stays put...you just have to pull the axle SHAFT