Rear Axle Leak Clarification
#1
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: PA
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Rear Axle Leak Clarification
I have just taken my 2000 4Runner (86k miles) in for inspection and been informed that both sides of my rear axle have leaked into my drums and soaked my brake shoes. I am going to be doing the replacement with the oversight of an experienced mechanic. I am trying to get the parts for this job. I know I need the following but could I be missing something? How many total seals are need for this job?
Parts list
1. Brake shoes
2. brake fluid
3. O-ring seal
4. oil seal
5. diff oil
Thanks
Parts list
1. Brake shoes
2. brake fluid
3. O-ring seal
4. oil seal
5. diff oil
Thanks
#4
Contributing Member
I've never done it, but from this write up it looks like you've got everything. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f128/replacing-rear-axle-seals-3rd-gen-4runner-76339/
#6
Registered User
just did mine and you might want to add 2 number 8 x 1.25 30mm bolts to push your drum away from the housing
my shoes had plenty of life left in them, i just sanded my drums and all is well
also, if you have a difficult time putting your drum back on after reassebly, you have to adjust the screw/dial bronze thing in the middle of the drum to push the shoes in toward each other
my shoes had plenty of life left in them, i just sanded my drums and all is well
also, if you have a difficult time putting your drum back on after reassebly, you have to adjust the screw/dial bronze thing in the middle of the drum to push the shoes in toward each other
#7
I just did both of mine a few days ago, don't worry about the o-ring, it should be fine, but you may need new wheel bearings, if so there's an inner seal as well. Check to see how much play the bearings have, if they are fine, then you will need to repack them. I used the head of a nail to pop out off the seals on the bearings, then use a thick moly grease. When the axle seal leaks, it blows out all the grease from the bearings and they will fail quickly if you don't.
If the drums don't need turning use some coarse sandpaper and put a cross hatch pattern breaking the glaze, this will help seat the new pads. Get a cap for the brake line, so when you disconnect it, it don't drain the master cylinder.
If the drums don't need turning use some coarse sandpaper and put a cross hatch pattern breaking the glaze, this will help seat the new pads. Get a cap for the brake line, so when you disconnect it, it don't drain the master cylinder.
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