sampson

Hey guys,

Got the truck regeared a little while ago and then come to find out the cheap son of a biatch used some orange gasket maker instead of getting the actual gasket, so naturally it leaks like ˟˟˟˟ and I went down and picked up the actual gasket. But I can't get the damn "differentail carrier assembly" off. Or in lamens terms the big thing that covers the front of the rear driveshaft that the "companion flange" bolts too. THen the driveshaft bolts to the companion flange. So if you know what is holding the thing on there please let me know. I am sure all the nuts are off and it feels like it is somewhere in the middle, because I can get the bottom to come off to the point of where it is almost off the bolts, but then when I let it go it sucks back down a little bit. I can get the top of it to come off the top a little bit, not as far as the bottom but it sucks back as well whenever I let it go. Any help, refrences or whatever you can give me is appreciated. THanks -Sampson

sampson

oh yeah and I haven't removed the oil seal or the oil slinger yet because I don't know how and I don't wanna screw them up. I figure they will just come out with the housing. So if that could be it, how do I take them out without damaging them. Thanks-Sampson

jimbo74

you need to pull out the axle shafts i beleive

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

You need to slide the rear axle shafts out a few inches on each side to free the 3rd member. Why? Because the axle shafts slide into the splines on the differential and that traps the 3rd member to the housing until the shafts are pulled enough to clear the diff. I prefer sealant to the OEM paper gaskets and if the guy used the actual orange Toyota FIPG sealant, that is the best stuff to use. You may only need to tighten the nuts to stop the leak. The paper gaskets tend to "wick" gear oil out after a few years, mine is leaking like that and when I re-do it, I'll be replacing the paper gasket with orange FIPG.

sampson

So in order to pull out the axle shafts I'm gonna have to pop off the tires and the the rear drums etc.... til I get the axel shafts out. From there I slide the axel shafts out a little bit and then the third will come out. Gimmie a time frame to do this, like an estimate on how long it will take. I am debating weither to do that or to just get some instant gasket ˟˟˟˟ and pulling it apart in each part and adding the instant gasket until I have done the whole thing, then when I am done add the ˟˟˟˟ all the way around on the outside too. Anyway thanks for the reply man I appreciate it. I already pulled the driveshaft out and am just to the point where I need to start pulling ˟˟˟˟ apart to get to the axel shafts. I am just kinda pissed right now because the book didn't mention ˟˟˟˟ about pulling the axel shafts out. Thanks again man, please reply quick
-Sampson

Adam F

Should take you maybe an hour or 2 if you've never done it. But if you have the drive shaft unbolted then your half way there.

There are 4 nuts on the backside of the drums. Take those off. Then you will have to unbolt the brake lines from the drums using a 10mm wrench. Plug the brake lines with a rubber plug or a small jewelers screwdriver wrapped in duct tape. Go ahead and take the axles completely out since you do not want to let them rest on the oil seals inside the axle housing. The axle shaft and drum will come out as one piece, so you do not have to disassemble the drum at all. Do this to both sides of course.

You will need to bleed your brakes after you are done as well.

sampson

Ok sounds like it will be pretty easy. I am thinking I'll give that a shot in a bit. So the entire drum assembly will come out as one piece along with the axel shafts or will I have to take off the drum cover that the brakes push out against? Thanks for the post man. I'm gonna go down and check and see what I can find as far as the nuts on the back of the drums. Also is there anyway I can do this all without removing the tires from the drums. I know I know, I'm just lazy and really tired today and wondering. Thanks a lot, please reply soon-Sampson

NP on this stuff sounds pretty simple, have played with brakes a lot.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

No need to remove the drums and while you could leave the wheels/tires on, it is very awkward to wrestle all that out of there without trashing the inner axle seals. The following page will show you what you are looking at:

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte...wheel_bearing/

terryjmatthew

Takes me about 15 minutes(although I have now done it about 5 times)

Adam F

Like Roger said, take the wheels off. It's heavy enough with them off. Plus it will be very difficult to get to the back of the drums and the brake lines with them on.

Oh, and you need to disconnect the emergency brake cables from the drums. They are held on by cotter pins and studs.

You will also most likely leak some gear oil from the ends of the axle tubes once you slide the axles out. Put an oil pan under the end of the axle when you remove them. Be sure to pick up a quart or 2 of gear oil to refill it with, unless you have a perfectly clean oil pan and can re-use the oil. Make sure you have a 24mm socket with you to remove the fill and drain plugs.


Sounds like you are trying to rush things. Take a deep breath and slow down. You do not want to rush things and screw something up. Wake up a few hours earlier in the day and get an early start on it.

kyle_22r

i've had the best luck using ultra copper gasket good on stuff where there's gear oil. ultra gray should work as well, as it's compatible with toyota FIPG!

Cebby

I used the Toyota brand red gasket goo. No leaks!

sampson

Yeah I got the axels out and then found out that he used a combination of both the red gasket goo and the regular gasket, somehow it still managed to leak. Not like drip every couple days like I could fill it up in the morning and by the time the next morning came I had a puddle on the floor under the rear axel. I checked the tightness of all the nuts as well to make sure it wasn't that. Is it best to use a combination of both gasket and gasket maker or should I just use the gasket. I have a gasket and I have a little tube of make a gasket stuff, think it is that ultra grey stuff. Reply quick as I wanna do this and finish it tonight, I have shiat to do tomorrow and won't have time when I wake up. Anyway thanks a ton for all the reply's.

So should I use just gasket, just gasket maker stuff (ultra grey I think) or should I use a combination of both??? Thanks a lot you guys-Sampson

Cebby

We used the paper gasket and the goo on mine. Forgot about that lame piece of paper...

I just used the grey stuff when I changed my diff oil on my Jeep GC. (you have to pull the cover to let the oil out ) PITA.

sampson

ok did you put goo on both sides of the gasket or just one or the other? Thanks-Sampson

Cebby

Here's what we did:

Rear housing | Paper Gasket | Goo | 3rd

The goo ended up getting all over.


The FSM calls for goo only up front and "gasket" only on the rear. Go figure.

sampson

tight, thanks man I really appreciate it, I'm gonna go bust that out right now, just like you and the FSM suggested. I'll keep you posted. Thanks a lot-Sampson

sampson

Finished it a few nights ago and thought I'd let everyone know that it went great and I don't think I am leaking anymore but only time will tell. Thanks for the information you guys kick @$$. I really appreciate all who contributed. L8r-Sampson

Jeffires

Once people find out you know how to do that stuff, your shop will stay busier.....I've put in several LockRights now.

I always use a gasket and never had any trouble....

sampson

Sorry man don't really run a shop. I have a little costco half moon car port deal and do work on cars but don't run a shop. Thanks for the info though-Sampson