shooter

I have been a happy 4Runner owner for several years, so I am out of touch with the value of these things currently. I have heard gas prices have affected prices recently. I am probably going to be looking to sell over the next few months, and I wanted to see what is a realistic asking and sales price.

1998 4Runner Limited 2WD
175,000 miles
Dune color (Two tone champagne and silver color)
Tow package and roof rack (were these standard or options?)
2 owner
Clean title & Carfax
Pretty much stock (though I put on Brembos and Bilsteins, and did the deckplate mod)
No accidents!!
Pretty darn good cosmetic condition.
Tires have about half left and I recently did some preventative work including timing belt and water pump.
Located in SoCal

Edmunds says about $5,000 for private party seller. What do you guys think I should expect to get for this? Note, that I am looking for a realistic price to sell it within a few weeks or a month max when I finally put it on the market. I do not plan to hold out for top dollar.

Thanks!
shoot

whiteclef

Try KBB I've always had better success with that. KBB.com. don't expect more that the fair condition price...

jaybur_racing

KBB sucks, after 140k the mileage stops affecting the price. I guess that works in YOUR favor at this point, but not for buyers.

why have the mileage affect price at all, if it is going to stop affecting at a pre-set 140,000 miles for any car on the market?


I guess when I sell my DD with 340,000 miles (camry!) I can just go by the KBB value, and it will be worth the same as a car with 140k on it! SOMEHOW though if you go to trade it in, the dealers can manage to continue lowering the value past 140k but to the general public, I guess 140k is it!

OH and they also stop INCREASING value at about 50,000 miles. I sold our CRV a few years ago, it was a 98 with 37k on it, and the value stopped increasing at 50k so that means its only worth the value of one with 13k miles more??

KBB is trash, in my opinion.

Here is my opinion on how to get a value. Call the bank and ask what the loan value is on it. and try for that price, because if someone needs a loan, they will only be approved for up to the cars value they have in their computer system.

NicCantDecide

KBB is possibly one of the most accurate ways to gauge the amount of money you'll get for your car.

4Runners depreciate very quickly though, so don't expect much from it.

DailyDrive

It absolutely does not suck, it relies on real data. There is simply no good correlation above or below a certain mileage on a used vehicles. 140k+ is out of range for most buyers, so the decision is usually made on very abstract criteria, such as if the seller looks reliable and did the maintenance correctly. Or if the vehicles is from a very favorable climate AND has been garaged, etc. This stuff is not easily quantifiable in statistics, so statistics fall apart at the extremes of mileage ranges.

Think about it, what is 140K and 175K miles to 95% of the buyers? The same thing, "WAY TOO MUCH" and they won't even look at it. The very few that do look at those vehicles will make very complex decision as to what to pay for them.

Ian Rogers

i would put the price in the 4500 to 5000 range, SUV are not hot sellers right now!! But if you are willing to hold out for your price you will get it some day. The mileage is going to kill you for your price, you might as well just keep it

jaybur_racing

Do you work for KBB or something? And are you serious about the 95% of buyers 140k is way too much? Then the OP only has a 5% market to sell to, tough break OP. I'll stick with KBB DOES SUCK! KBB is a "guideline" as best.

Oh and if 140k is out of range, why do dealer lots put "low mileage" stickers on cars with over 140k, but maybe 15 years old? Your reply to me is not very realistic, but thanks for your OPINION.

another kbb employee?

Here is a scenario for you.
I have a 4runner with 175,000 miles. at 160,000 miles I had to replace the engine with a new one. I also had the transmission rebuilt to save future labor costs. Do I still use the most accurate method of judging value for my car, the kbb?

and again, the value does nto change after 140k, so how is that ACCURATE?

If I am shipping a package via UPS and I use a scale that only goes up to 50 pounds, yet the package weighs 75 pounds. Did I use an ACCURATE scale, or will they just charge me the 50 pound weight, since my scale does not go up high enough to get the TRUE measure?

98runner210

I might be trading for a 4th gen. I am hoping that having 82K miles will help me.

netwt12

$4500

Cxrazy

I sold mine in may for 8250. It was 4wd though...

BajaRunner

I sell cars on the side. About 1-2 per month. I only sell SUV's, and I still sell them within the first 3 days.

I can say from first hand experience, the prices and sales are not going down since gas prices are higher.

4runners are always hot, they are Toyota, and especially in SoCal where they are very popular.

I would check KBB, set price @ fair price, and drop down $500 maximum from that with best offer pricing.

cackalak han

I agree KBB is not accurate. It's a crap shoot. Even checking eBay for what cars have sold for is a better estimate of the value of your car. I'd check out the local classifieds and see what a similar car is going for. Then set your price accordingly. Prices will vary dramatically be region.

For instance, your 2WD will get you about $2000 around here, but in the South, it'll be around $4000 or so, which is what I'm guessing you will get for it. The gas prices aren't helping right now, although it's been going down.

Good luck with the sale.

DailyDrive

I don't work for KBB, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn last night

Realistically, probably less than 1% of all used car buyers are looking at 140k+ vehicles. That figure is higher for Toyota/Honda no doubt, but overall it's very low. Yotatech or your engine replacing do their own oil change buddies are not a representative sample of the whole used car buying population, far from it

KBB uses statistics to massage real sales values. Everybody understands that KBB is a "guideline", and are not forcing anyone to sell cars for how much they say, and they are the industry standard for a reason. Hint: it's not because they suck

riverrat

I have mixed opinions on KBB. I just sold a 1st gen runner for $3300; KBB was $2260 for one in "excellent" condition. I think mine met the criteria of excellent, and had a few nice upgrades but was more or less stock, just well maintained for its age. I had several buyers comment that my asking price was well above KBB, which was true. I countered that if they could find a 1988 4runner in excellent condition in the Pacific NW for $2260 they should jump on it. And I wished them luck....

I also just bought a 2000 4runner on which KBB was $9200. I paid $8700, so pretty close. It is easy to find a 2000 runner for considerably less, but not the 4WD/5 speed/4 cyl engine combo that I wanted. It was worth that price to me, and similar rigs seem to bring similar prices on eBay and CL, from what I can determine, the sample size is very small.

IMO, 1st gens hold their value somewhat better than newer 4runners- they are kind of a unique design (e.g. removable top), the newest one is almost 20 years old, and there is a finite supply of them in decent shape, which is getting smaller all the time. IMO 2nd gens are the least desirable, there really wasn't a great engine in that vintage- the 22RE is a bit underpowered for it and the 3.0 V6 a gashog with HG issues.

3rd gens are great rigs, with 2 good engine choices. But there are a s***load of them out there, being offered as they were during the height of SUV popularity when many were purchased by people who didn't really need one. So there tend to be a lot available, and often in pretty nice shape.

Overall, 4runners tend to bring more on the west coast than elsewhere in the US, not sure why but they do. So where you live matters.

There are a number of things you can do to help get top dollar, mostly pretty obvious, i.e. CLEAN the heck out of it, and fix any problems, especially the minor stuff that doesn't require a large cash outlay. Clean the carpets and upholstery. Use that shiny tire snot stuff. Armor all the interior. If you happen to still have the base model steel wheels, IMO it would be worth it to watch CL and pick up some used factory alloys- there seems to be steady supply- sometimes at very reasonable prices- being sold by people who bought fancier aftermarket wheels.

Try to instill confidence in the buyer that you took good care of it. Change out the fluids. Provide maintenance records and a clean carfax if possible. Advertise it widely to get the most exposure. Put for sale signs in the windows and park it in a prominent location where lots of people will see it.

Good luck!

jaybur_racing

ok, I agree that people do not specifically say to themselves, hey I want a new car, and it must have at least 175,000 miles. you are right on that, people do not LOOK for them. I know I wouldn't look at 2 identical cars aside from mileage and choose the 175k (based on mileage alone).

HOWEVER, sometimes people don't have much money, so the cars they FIND are going to have higher mileage. and it is unfair that KBB just gives the same value for one with even 800,000 miles more.

what KBB should do is have a pop up that says "your car has more miles than we can give an accurate price for" That way people can better judge the value.

instead what happens is people selling the car KBB it and say WOW my car with 340,000 miles is still worth $2500 !!! Sweet! When in reality, that's the same value given to a car with half the mileage.

if your car falls in KBB's 50,000-140,000 mile range. then sure, use it. other than that its not accurate.

(I still think they suck ) but they have been around for a long time, that is why they are the mainstream for a cars value.


sorry to the OP for getting off track

hdizzle

I would recommend using NADA price guides over bluebook. Most dealers I have been to in the past use NADA rather than KBB.

http://www.nadaguides.com/default.aspx

1styota4X4

WOW...I have a 95 that has held a steady value since I bought it..

X-AWDriver

How long have you had the '95;SUV values have reallly taken a hit just over this last year so the decline has been slow on older trucks but newer SUVs have really been hit hard.