Ram Air question
12-15-2004, 03:39 PM
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12-15-2004, 03:45 PM
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Those aren't Ram Air systems, they're "cold air" intakes. Which will have limited benefit, since they're drawing air from around a toasty-hot motor. Ram Air is a scoop that collects the air from in front of the vehicle as you drive, to shove more in - which on a 22re is worthless anyway since you have to be haulin ass for Ram Air to do anything.
Save your money, is what I'm getting at.
Save your money, is what I'm getting at.
12-15-2004, 03:55 PM
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The system you are looking at on ebay is the filter. Instead of utalizing an air box so silence sound, it creates a better environment for sucking air into the engine and will give you a bit more torque. It will also be louder.
12-15-2004, 04:10 PM
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like he said save your money. I have not gained anything out of having straight pipe to the TB. Think about it this way. You are taking hot air from the engine bay and running it thru a metal pipe that runs along top out your hot hot radiator. So what happens to the pipe and the "Cold Air" that is inside of it? It heats up more.
What you can do is. Remove the top of your airbox, pull out the filter. Remove the elbow at the bottom of the box. Go a step further and remove the S-pipe that goes between the box and headlight. Pour some water to cover the botom of the box and drill 1/4" holes in the bottom till all the water has drained from the low spots. Replace filter with a performance filter like an Amsoil or K&N (got mine for $20 new on ebay). Replace top of airbox and enjoy. You will have a larger unrestricted opening in your box that is still getting most of its "cold air" from the headlight area, and a nice new intake note. Then you can send me some money instead of spending $150.
Look at this post for pics and detail
What you can do is. Remove the top of your airbox, pull out the filter. Remove the elbow at the bottom of the box. Go a step further and remove the S-pipe that goes between the box and headlight. Pour some water to cover the botom of the box and drill 1/4" holes in the bottom till all the water has drained from the low spots. Replace filter with a performance filter like an Amsoil or K&N (got mine for $20 new on ebay). Replace top of airbox and enjoy. You will have a larger unrestricted opening in your box that is still getting most of its "cold air" from the headlight area, and a nice new intake note. Then you can send me some money instead of spending $150.
Look at this post for pics and detail
12-15-2004, 04:12 PM
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You can make somthing like fairly simply, if you going to be going offroad id advise you to stick with the airbox and just do a deckplate mod, and amsoil filter. You can also swap the airbox and Battery. Doing all 3 of those mods and you probally will get a pretty good hp gain and keep the water outa your motor. You can do the whole thing for around 50 bucks too.
Here are some picture of what it looks like.
Here are some picture of what it looks like.
12-15-2004, 05:53 PM
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Thanks for all the replies. No one here hasen't had any benefits from either of these two items? I wont be going off road with my truck, it's just driven on the street.
Thanks for the link PirateFins
Thanks for the link PirateFins
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12-15-2004, 06:42 PM
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Staying Onroad? I use a similar system to Yamaha+Toyota=Fun. Planning on fabbing a better pipe to go between the box and TB.
Last edited by YotaTruck1986; 12-15-2004 at 06:43 PM.
12-16-2004, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by gbpec7
Nice truck YotaTruck1986. My air box is on the driver side. I have alot of room to change out my stock air box to a K&N filter.
So were theirs. That's what they are showing - swapping the battery to the other side and putting the airbox closer to the intake. Yamaha's smooth elbow will help a lot too, but the squished and twisted pipe in YT86's probably hurts more than the mod would have helped.
12-16-2004, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Flamedx4
the squished and twisted pipe in YT86's probably hurts more than the mod would have helped.
12-16-2004, 01:44 PM
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Zactly, the length of the pipe from the airbox to the intake isn't a really big deal, it's the restrictive convolutions and the restricted air box inlet that do the most harm. Longer intake runners just prior to the air intering the cylinders generally IS good for more torque though.
Last edited by Flamedx4; 12-16-2004 at 01:46 PM.
12-16-2004, 03:22 PM
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Longer intake runners just prior to the air intering the cylinders generally IS good for more torque though.
Thanks for the help......
12-17-2004, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by gbpec7
Ok, I'll get/make a long one and try it. If I can't really notice much difference then I'll do like the rest of you have done and move my battery to the driver's side and make a short one. I'll post back to this thread my results.
Thanks for the help......
Thanks for the help......
No no no, the pipe from the airbox to the intake is not the intake runners - that's integral to the cast aluminum intake manifold and there isn't much you can do about it. Opening up your airbox will make the biggest gain for the least effort (deck plate mod, extra holes, whatever,) especially combined with a good filter.
12-17-2004, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Flamedx4
No no no, the pipe from the airbox to the intake is not the intake runners - that's integral to the cast aluminum intake manifold and there isn't much you can do about it. Opening up your airbox will make the biggest gain for the least effort (deck plate mod, extra holes, whatever,) especially combined with a good filter.
Ok, I get it. What it this "deck plate" mod?
I think what I'll do is just change to a K&N filter and see how that goes for now.
Thanks.
Last edited by gbpec7; 12-17-2004 at 01:54 PM.
12-17-2004, 06:30 PM
#20
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Originally Posted by gbpec7
Ok, I get it. What it this "deck plate" mod?
I think what I'll do is just change to a K&N filter and see how that goes for now.
Thanks.
I think what I'll do is just change to a K&N filter and see how that goes for now.
Thanks.
Link to deck plate post HERE
