jimbob

Hey guys - just got the 7th injector installed on my 02 last week - but I've got some concerns.

It seems to have done away with the ping issues (hg/lr) very well. But now I get a low level ping (clicking?) at partial throttle that is quite annoying. I'm gonna take it back to the dealer to have it checked out - because thats why I paid the dealer to do it. Curious if it is actually the sound of the injector operating? Can you actually hear the injector cycling over the sound of the engine? Is it normal? Will subside as the pintle and spring breaks in? Any input is welcomed.

I must say I am pleased with the additional low rpm grunt - driving conservatively is really quite satisfying. But I am disappointed that I really can't wind it up all that high --- she'll pull like a banshee thru the gear - but when it up shifts above ~4000 rpm it pings REALLY bad when it grabs the next gear Does'nt sound good at all. Is the next step to go with a Walboro?

Jim

PS --- Glad to see Andy came to his senses and is keeping the most killer rig on the board!!!!

TRDOLMAN

Jim, did they put the 160 thermostat in and the colder plugs?
Don't know what to say about your clicking noise. Mine never did that.
Mine never did the above 4000 shift thing either.
I know before I upgraded to the Walbro I was just on the edge of running out of fuel. The new pump definately made a difference.
No matter what happens at the dealer, if you want the most out of your 7th and cure all the pinging, URD has two additional injector controllers (AIC) to solve your problems. One AIC has a timing control feature if you have pinging.
With the AIC (i used the one without timing control), opening the exhaust, smaller pulley, and adding a water/methanol sytem---my truck gained 57 RWHP over what the S/C, 7th, headers, and catback produced.

jimbob

10-4 on the tstat and plugs - actually had to wait a week for the 6th plug to come in before the install - what a bitch. From all the threads, the Walboro seems like the right thing to do. I hoping that I dont have to go the route of the URD kit, but I'm glad its there as a fall back. I'm not looking for the most power out of the engine - just long term reliability and the satisfying kick that the s/c should have.

Out of curiosity, how hard is it to tune the URD kit? I'm sure Gadget will chime in about this - I just don't want to go down the road of dyno runs and second geussing whether I've got the best tune or if I've gone too far and causing damage. This is a DD that I plan on keeping for the next 10 years (kept my '91 pretty much stock except for Downy springs and a K&N - cried when I finally let her go ---- of course that was before I found YOTATECH!!!).

TRDOLMAN

Jim I understand about the DD thing. Mine is my DD also and I depend on it. I never set out to get big HP numbers out of my truck. Believe it or not, it just happened. I installed the S/C and headers for more usable power but was worried about the leanout problem so I put the 7th on for safety reasons.
After putting the 7th on I figured out my fuel pump was maxed out so I installed the Walbro 190. Then I checked my AFRs and found they were in the 10 range! I then put on the 2.2 pulley to add more boost and hopefully lean it out some. Wasn't enough. I added the AIC to be able to tune the 7th and get my AFRs to 12. Then I got to thinking that I was creating a lot of heat running the 2.2 so I installed the water/ methanol injection. All this was to make my truck run it's best and be safe while I was at it. The only thing was that the power just kept going up the whole time I was making the truck run it's best.
Before I knew it my power was at 300+ at the wheels but the truck runs great. If you drove it around town and didn't hit the gas hard you couldn't tell it wasn't stock except it runs a lot smoother and gets better gas mileage. Hit the pedal hard and it's "Oh ˟˟˟˟˟ here we go!" You see---it just happened

Tuning the AIC is pretty much the same as tuning the URD fuel kit except you don't have to tune much of the closed loop. Tuning open loop is easy but you do need the tuning tools or have a friend that has the tools to do it. A little intimidating at first but once you catch on, it's cake.

TomCham

Did you connect the top side of the FPR to the the boost/valcum outlet/port of the TRD Supercharger? This will increase the fuel pressure a bit when the engine is reving at high RPM under boost.

TRDOLMAN

Tom, be careful what you advise. Connecting the FPR to the boost port is done on a regular S/C install or using a URD fuel kit. You DO NOT connect the FPR to the boost port in a 7th injector installation. The FPR line is routed to the intake prior to the throttle body.

TomCham

Sorry, my bad on giving the advice

Connecting the FPR to the boost port works well on my regular s/c'r set up. I am following the instruction from TRD & Gadget. Does it means the 7th injector kit do not need the extra fuel pressure under boost?

jimbob

Yeah - i've been wondering about the fpr - I noticed that it got rerouted on the 7th injector install - haven't seen any info on here about what to do after the install.

Whats involved with upgrading to a Walboro? Do you have to drop the tank to change it? Or is it down on the frame rail? I've been meaning to get a set of FSMs - hopefully I'll get off my ass and do it soon.

midiwall

You have to drop the tank.. It's not fun to do by yourself, but if the tank is fairly empty, it's not impossible.

and.. here's a 2nd to say that you really should be running a Walbro in there.

TRDOLMAN

Tom the way your FPR is setup is the way it should be. The 7th setup does not need the extra fuel pressure to operate properly so the FPR line is routed to the intake like a stock truck. The only problem is that the stock fuel pump does not flow enough in my opinion so the Walbro 190 should be installed.

Dave

TRDOLMAN

If you buy the pump from URD, they supply instructions that are pretty good. You don't need a FSM for this upgrade.

paxam

I have the URD injector controller. how did you all hook it up in to the system? I was thinking and looking for a harness that I can plug in /un plug between the ignighter module and the computer.
currently the 7th inj seems like it works and sometimes it dont. I hope by installing the URD unit it will make it more consistant.

TRDOLMAN

Can I ask you who installed your 7th injector kit? The reason I ask is because your sig says you have a 170 thermostat. The kit comes with a TRD 160 thermostat.

I'm a little confused about what you are wanting to do with your "harness". The AIC does not wire in or have anything to do with the Toyota ECU or the TRD piggyback for that matter.

Do you have the install guide from URD? Have you checked your AFRs at open throttle to see if your injector is working? Once you get the AIC hooked up, do you have the tools to tune it?

I can help you with the install, and trust me, I'm not trying to bust your balls with all the questions. I just need to know where you are at with the 7th and the 7th install. The only times I have seen problems with inconsistency with the unit has been a result of an install problem or mistake.

The operation of the injector itself using the AIC WILL be consistent because it is a seperate unit. The TRD connector to the injector is removed and replaced by the AIC connector.

The AIC install is very simple 3 wire install. You need an rpm signal from the igniter, a switched 12v+, and a ground. All three wires can be tapped into the igniter harness. You just need to have the diagram of the igniter wires for your particular truck. If you don't have the wiring diagram, you can E-mail URD and get one easily. The only other thing you need is to connect a boost line to the built in MAP sensor. I mounted my AIC under the hood on the firewall.

I don't know you and you may know all of this already and if you do I apologize. I'll be glad to help you if I can. Let me know.

Dave

paxam

thanks for the reply.
I installed the 7th inj it was easy.of course I could of made a mistake.I followed the directions to the T and there was another mechanic friend there so we double checked it.
I put the 170 in the truck based on a artical that I read from gadgets site.
I still have the trd 160 stat.
I was in question about wire from the ignighter. I was wanting to make a small jumper harness that I can cut and add the wires to it rather then cut the factory harness.
I have the install guide from URD.
I have not put it on the dyno so I have not checked the AFR yet.
may be the stat is causing the inconsistancy?
spark plugs are from URD.
michael

TRDOLMAN

I don't think the cooler thermostat will change any inconsistancy you may have. I run the 160 thermostat and all is fine so far. I didn't cut into the igniter wires. I just skinned back the insulation and soldered the AIC wires to them. You could always use "T" taps if you wanted. I don't think they are as good a connection but they work.

jimbob

Just an update for those that are curious:

Just got my rig back from the dealer - its running and sounding awesome!!!! I brought it down friday morning and it was making really wild sounds from the passenger side foot well --- I was convinced that the trd box was toast since I could actually hear the box firing when the injector was in partial throttle boost. Of course, by the time I got it down to the dealer, the noises had pretty much settled down to being hardly noticable They kept it over night - the tech said that the boxes were crammed in by the heater controls pretty tight - and that some of the linkage was knocking into the boxes (I did notice that when I put the controls on floor only, it did make new and not so good sounding noises). He said that he double checked all the connections and ran a full diagnostics on the trd box and all checked out - then remounted the boxes more carefully.

Everything is running and sounding great --- no more pings or clicking - and gobs of low end torque. Can race thru the gears without any pinging on the upshifts!!! This is the way it should have been the whole time
Can't wait to get out on some trails and try her out!!!

midiwall

So... what do they claim that they did? Are they claiming that it was pinging because you mounted the 7th injector controller too close to the heater?

jimbob

Yeah, I know... but i'm betting that the tech found something else that he did in the install that i'm never going to hear about. My guess is that one of the connectors was f'd when he wedged it in. The fact is, it is running the way it should right now!!! It's just so damn cool!!

TRDOLMAN

Kinda sounds like they botched the install the first time around then redid it right the second time-----

Edit: Like you just said

jimbob

Yeah, it was like night and day.... I was pulling some hills on the way home (frome Michael's in Bellevue) and where the charger used to just whine without making much power, she was kinda quiet, pulling and grunting the whole way --- she would actually DOWNSHIFT on the hill instead of just pinging it out in high gear. Like I said ---- just the way its supposed to be