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purchased remote start, need help installing/wires

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Old 03-08-2005, 08:21 PM
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purchased remote start, need help installing/wires

Edited because this long first post help is not needed, look down for current help needed, hahaha.

ill post all the wire colors and locations, good for anyone else installing any kind of alarm/remote start

Last edited by dibble9012; 03-14-2005 at 05:03 AM.
Old 03-09-2005, 03:05 AM
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anyone? Im gonna try the install today after school, so it would be great to have some answers.

Last edited by dibble9012; 03-09-2005 at 03:10 AM.
Old 03-09-2005, 05:19 AM
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unfortunately, thats too much info for people to decipher ! Have you tried calling the manufacturer of the remote start unit ? Their the ones that will be able to help you !!!
Old 03-09-2005, 05:19 AM
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OR ask a mechanic at your toyota dealership
Old 03-09-2005, 05:27 AM
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150 bucks isn't a lot for an install. I understand it is, when you don't have, but this is a fairly involved install and if done wrong, your truck might not start or disrarm.
If you need you can always call a local shop. MAybe Tweeters in Fredricksburg or someone in Richond. If oyu need shop names, let me know
Old 03-09-2005, 05:39 AM
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Originally Posted by dibble9012
This is going to be a loooong post, lol. I would REALLY appreciate it if you guys helped me out, I really did not want to spend $150 to get it installed. I have some questions hooking it up though, I looked on 12volt already and that got me going, they just don’t have all the information I need. I scanned in my whole manual here, it wasn’t on their website anymore. You should view them full screen (sorry dialup users) and I made sure nothing was cut off, I will refer to the pages as the file names, 0, 1,2,3,etc. Toyota security wires is off of 12volt.com.

On PG 1:
(-) factory security disarm: It says on 12volt that the alarm disarm works with the door locks. Do I still need to hook this up? If I do, do I have to use a relay, manual says it’s a (-) pulse, but also says to use a relay to send a (-) or (+) pulse. Same goes for alarm arm
If you still have the factory alarm installed in the truck I suggest taking it out because even when you use the disarm I have seen people have problems with the 2 systems fighting each other, so if you have one pull it out and make some $$$ selling it on ebay. If your truck never had one, no worries, just tie this wire up.

(-) Activation input: Manual says you need two ground pulses on the white/blue wire, what does this mean, do I have to hook it up to the momen. switch? (mom. switch has its own harness, doesn’t look like you would tap that. no clue on this one, hahaha.
I didn't use this....and you can do the same from the remote....tie it up.

Sorry guys there’s more, thanks for reading this far!! I need all the help I can get, I will definitely make a write up for this for future people!

On PG 3:
Relay key switch interface: says not to use any weak connections, should I solder? what other options
RED (2) (+)12v input for relays: this is constant 12v right? on the 12volt, it said white or white red, which one is constant, or are both?
PINK (+) ignition output 1, black/red
ORANGE (+) accessory output: blue/red, just to verify
PURPLE (+) starter output: green/black, again, just to verify with you guys
PINK/WHITE (+) output to second ignition/accessory circuit, black/yellow
I personally prefer to solder all my connections but it is especially important with these because they carry some decent current. Check my pics for wire colors.

Remote start harness:
BLACK/WHITE neutral/park safety switch input: I have no clue where this wire is, it’s not on the 12volt. what’s the toggle switch there for? Just to test the system or something, I ask because if it’s a switch I will hardly use, I will put it somewhere out of the way.
If you have an automatic (which I hope you do) you don't need to hook up this wire because it is unable to start execpt in park or neutral anyway....so tie this one up too.

VIOLET/WHITE tach input: black AC, on diagnostic connector, 1st what does AC mean, 2nd, which diagnostic connector, the one under the hood, or the connector under the dash?
I took input from the back of the instrument cluster, look at my pics and you'll see where to get it.

On PG 4
BROWN (+) brake switch input: green/white? I looked near the brake pedal, and I see a switch, but which wire would get 12v when the pedal is depressed?
You need to get a multimeter and check....I don't remember offhand.

GRAY (-) hood pin switch: got a switch in the kit, but on the 12volt, says there is already one on the 4runner? I haven’t seen it, lol, supposedly, green/orange in the DR firewall, grey 26 pin connector. anyone confirm this, I don’t think there’s a pin switch already.
Mine did not have one so i just installed the one that came with the kit and ran the wire back through the firewall.

BLUE/WHITE status defogger output: I would use it for defog. The wire is behind the switch on the dash, but is mixed with other wires (ECT). which wire would I hook this up to for defog? Would I use pulsed or latched?
I don't think I ever used this feature so you'd need to figure this one out.

On PG 7:
Please explain what I would need to do, what wire, relays, for door lock setup on the 4runner. I believe its type B: but I’m not sure.
Yes, it is type B....look at my pics.

On PG 10: where did you guys place the program switch? I know it’s a matter or preference, but just wondering. I think ill place mine to the left of the security module on the left of the steering wheel.
I put the valet/program switch on the top of the kickpanel.

Well that’s it until I think of something else, lol. If you read this far I really appreciate it, I know this is a long thread, and it has some questions with obvious answers, but I just want to make sure everything will be ok, and I won’t kill my truck. I’m great with electronics, it’s just when I saw all the wires that I need to tap, and find, I got a little confused/worried, it will be great when I get it working though! Like I said, ill make a write up for anyone else that will need it in the future, including wire colors and locations, put all of our information together in one place! Thanks!!!!
Have you looked at the pics in my signature?

Tells you exactly how to install a viper alarm/remote start....
...I even had scanned the viper guide and the 4runner wire colors are on the far left (may be slightly different on a 2000, but not much).

Which alarm is this so I can get the manual and look?

BTW....you can get all the install guides online here:
http://www.drdetailshop.com/deiinstallguides.htm

Last edited by MTL_4runner; 03-09-2005 at 06:07 AM.
Old 03-09-2005, 07:13 AM
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thanks for your replies, i know it was a lot to decipher, just figured you guys might be able to help if youve done it before. Last block i got most of it figured out. I didnt know about the neutral wire though, (yes mine is an automatic) I also figured out the activation input, thats if you want the stock keyless entry to work the starter (press lock button twice) Well ill update this when i get home tonight and get started. Everything should run smoothly now that I have a nice excel spreadsheet with all wire connections/loactions/colors in it.

Last edited by dibble9012; 03-09-2005 at 07:19 AM.
Old 03-09-2005, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by MTL_4runner
Have you looked at the pics in my signature?

Tells you exactly how to install a viper alarm/remote start....
...I even had scanned the viper guide and the 4runner wire colors are on the far left (may be slightly different on a 2000, but not much).

Which alarm is this so I can get the manual and look?

BTW....you can get all the install guides online here:
http://www.drdetailshop.com/deiinstallguides.htm
Its not an alarm, only remote start/keyless entry, 130xv. I had the manual scanned in on webshots, but somehow its not showing all the pages, Ill check on that when I get home. I must have been looking at the wrong page on their site, because I could only find the owners manual of the remote start online. Thanks for the link

Last edited by dibble9012; 03-09-2005 at 07:33 AM.
Old 03-09-2005, 08:20 AM
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I'd say just pay for the install. I've seen those remote starters act up really bad after a while. If I were you I would get it done professionally.
Old 03-09-2005, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by dibble9012
thanks for your replies, i know it was a lot to decipher, just figured you guys might be able to help if youve done it before. Last block i got most of it figured out. I didnt know about the neutral wire though, (yes mine is an automatic) I also figured out the activation input, thats if you want the stock keyless entry to work the starter (press lock button twice) Well ill update this when i get home tonight and get started. Everything should run smoothly now that I have a nice excel spreadsheet with all wire connections/loactions/colors in it.
The neutral wire will need to be grounded for the remote start to be able to start the truck. Just wire the switch in line and ground the other side it allow you to disable the remote start in case you take it in for service or if your under the hood, a safety feature really the hood switch also functions as a safety switch to disable the remote start if its open. The rest of what MTL has seems to be rigth from what I recal and if yur not 100% sure just pull out the trusty multi-meter to verify the right wires. Oh and on the tach wire were ot says AC it means (Alternating Current) thats what your looking to measure on the meter to verify you have the right tach wire. I also did not have a pin switch on the hood so had to add that what I did do on mine was cut the wires used for the buzzer that was used on the factory alarm and used one wire for the hood switch and the other for the siren under the hood but guess your not adding a siren since it sounds like you got just the remote start and using your factory unit to trigger the start on this module. Hope this helps...

Last edited by WT; 03-09-2005 at 09:12 AM.
Old 03-09-2005, 09:47 AM
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thanks, should have known AC was alternating current, i wasnt thinking, lol.
Old 03-09-2005, 11:09 AM
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dibble,

you should've gotten in the commando 870 group buy. most of us did the install together and traded notes via PMs and email. you wouldve had remote start as well and that hook up was a cinch!

bob
Old 03-09-2005, 11:18 AM
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yea, just thought simple would be better, I really dont have the need for an elaborate alarm, plus back then I didnt have a job, needed to save money for gas, or remote start wouldnt work, lol, they need to fix that flaw.
Old 03-09-2005, 11:31 AM
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aside from a few errors, it was a pretty simple install anyways, i hope you get your remote start working

bob
Old 03-09-2005, 07:16 PM
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yahoooo, it works!! its great, I can start my car from across the street! I have a couple issues still that I need to work out. 1: which wire would I hook up to do the defroster? 2: is the activation(-) input so if I lock the doors with the stock keyless entry 2 or 3 times, it starts? 3: i cant use valet mode with mom. switch, only with keychain fob. maybe im doing it wrong, i pressed the mom. switch once then removed key? I also tried holding it down while removing the key, still didnt work, do i have to hold it down for a certain amount of time, or more presses?

whats "channel 2 (validity only)?

i did not use the 4 pin satellIte harness at all, what is accessory trigger, starter trigger, and ignition trigger?

would using the "ignition out (to alarm) wire do anything to help my problem, or add features

when i lock using the viper system, it does not set the alarm, how can i fix this?, i did not use the factory disarm/arm wires from viper because 12volt said the alarm arms when the doors are locked WRONG, where would i hook up these two wires? i have a rs3200 plus alarm

thanks guys, ill try to give a write up, i didnt take any pics though, had to concentrate on what I was doing too much, but I have a handy excel spreadsheet with all the wires/connections for this system on a 2000 4runner.

Last edited by dibble9012; 03-09-2005 at 07:26 PM.
Old 03-10-2005, 04:29 AM
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I bought my wife a remote start/alarm for her birthday. Figured I could do the install no prob. I figure I spent about 8 hours total to get it all in and working. This was her 99 Ford.
Old 03-10-2005, 05:43 AM
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Originally Posted by dibble9012
anyone? in the directions it looks like maybe they have a "programming mom. switch" and then another mom. switch for valet mode? im not sure, something to do with the blue wire. Does anyone know what happens if you accidentally press the start button when it is already in remote start mode, or if they keys are already in the ignition? just wondering if it knows when not to start the car.
As for the valet switch believe you have to hit it a certain amount of times before you take the key out I don't remember since I never use that function. As for if you try to start it again mine shuts teh engine off if I try to restart it and its already running. I would imagine if you have it all hooked up right thats what should work on your system too.
You said it wont arm your current alarm is because you will need to run a trigger wire to the factory system from the remote start unit to let it know to re-arm after it starts, as for which wires I have no idea will probably have to break out the meter or find a wire diagram of the factory system.
Old 03-10-2005, 07:11 AM
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i just realized what i said, wasnt thinking, i know it shuts off if it is already in remote start mode, but what if the key is in the ignition, does it still try to remote start it? i will be putting in the anti grind relay today, that stops it from grinding, if its in remote start mode and you turn the key too far. on a different note, i hooked up the blue/white activation wire to the lock wire of the truck, thinking, i pulse the locks 3 times, and it starts, doesnt work, im thinking maybe the alarm is getting in the way or something, it does work with the viper keyless though, just not the stock one.

Last edited by dibble9012; 03-14-2005 at 04:57 AM.
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