Travis

Over the past weekend, I had to replace my alternator. In order to get to it, I had to remove the distributor.

I've got everything back in place now, but before I crank the engine, I need to re-adjust the distributor and set the crankshaft to 10 deg before TDC. I've never done this before and I need some diagrams and advice on what to do before turning the key.

My 4Runner is a 1991 4WD with a 3.0L V6 with 192,000 miles on it.

MTL_4runner

Did you mark the distributor BEFORE you pulled it?
That is the easiest way to get it apart and back together.

Otherwise you need to set the engine to top dead center.
Then line the rotor up with the #1 cylinder (it will start but run horribly)
Then with your timing light adjust it back to 10-12 BTC
Make sure to jumper the computer when setting the advance.

Travis

I marked the distributor but when I put it back in the engine and tried to start it, it wouldn't run. It would just turn over and occassionaly backfire.

How do you line up the distributor?

amusement

Travis it's really important that you review the repair and mainenance manual prior to setting cylinder number 1 to top-dead-center.

Then you can align the TDC mark on the distributer.

Firefyter-Emt

Crap.. You sure do things the hard way!! There is no need to pull the dist. to get the alt. out! (Just ask the guys at last years EC4RJ when I had to pull it in the rain using a Coleman lantern under the hood!

Anyway.. You need to yank that dist. back out, now you have to bring the timing marks up and make sure that #1 piston is at the top (you can see this with a flashlight once the plug is out. Now look at where #1 spark plug wire is on the cap (maybe mark that point on the dist. itself with a sharpie) Now install the dist. in the hole and make sure that the rotor lines up to that point where the #1 wire will be on the dist. You really want to try to keep the adjuster bolt close to the center of the hole so you have some adjustment. Now while installing the dist. in the hole it will spin the rotor, so you may need to take a couple shots to get the rotor lined up properly. Once that is done, replace the plug, cap and set your timing.

Got any Questions? ask now..

Travis

Thanks for the advice, basically what I really need is a damn garage! I'm having to work in the dark outside with a maglite.

I'll give it a shot tonight.

Travis

Piece of cake. Setting the timing is easy when you know what you're doing.

Thanks for the help. The thing runs pretty good now. I've got it set at about 9-10 deg BTDC.

miket223

Here's the factory procedure. Set the crank to #1 tdc compression. You'll know if it's the right tdc by taking out the spark plug and if it's forcing compression out the hole it's correct. Now, there are two marks at the bottom of the distributor. One is on the rotating shaft and the other is on the shaft housing. Line these two marks up and then find the mark at the top of the distributor. Now eyeball this line with the line on the cylinder head and start sliding the distributor in while keeping your eye on these two top lines. The distributor will rotate when you push it in the final inch due to the way the gears are cut but this is to be expected and if you followed all the previous directions properly the rotor should land right where it needs to be. Once you get the distributor in there's a mark on the rotor that will confirm that you're on the right tooth when you eyeball the mark on the cylinder head. Now you're ready to set base timing.

Travis

Here's what I did:

I removed the cap off of the distributor so I could see where the spark was going. I rotated the crank to 0 deg using the mark on the harmonic balancer. To double check, I pulled the plug from cylinder #1 (closest to the radiator on the passenger side of the engine) and checked using a maglite and pencil that the piston was at the top of the cylinder. I then replaced the spark plug and cap.

Next, I pulled the distributor and rotated the inside of it to line up exactly with the position for the first spark plug wire. There was a marking on the inside of the distributor to assist in getting it lined up. I then pushed it back into place noting how far it turned due to the gearing. I measured the distance that it moved and then turned inside back counter clock-wise past the first spark position the same distance. So when I replaced the distributor, everything lined up properly. I made sure that the adjustment screw had enough play on either side to fine tune the timing.

I replaced the cap and put all the plugs back in place. I left the distributor loose enough so that I turn the distributor. It helps to have a friend watch this when you crank the engine. I hooked up the timing light to the battery and wire for the first plug. I then double checked that the crankshaft was at 0deg and the distributor and wires were all back in place (no tools sitting on the engine).

I then cranked the engine and let it warm up for a minute or two. Next, I aimed the timing light at the harmonic balancer and the markings on the engine block looking to see where the timing was. The light flashes everytime the plug is supposed to fire. This allows you to see where the marking on the balancer lines up with the markings on the engine block. We got pretty lucky, on first try it was hitting at about 8 deg. I spun the distributor until it got to 9.5 when the engine seemed pretty quiet with no pinging or rough idling. I tightened down the distributor and removed the timing light.

I drove it around the block a few times and everthing seems to be normal.

Let me know if I forgot anything. I didn't jumper any connections. I might clean the throttle body next weekend.

miket223

If you didn't jumper any connections then your base timing is now set at 11.5 degrees BTDC which is fine. But, if you have emissions testing in your area you may fail the NOx gases.

Firefyter-Emt

Anytime..
Sometimes it is the little things in life..