By popular demand: The 3rd gen. Door thread
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By popular demand: The 3rd gen. Door thread
Alright I get asked all the time about how I take my doors, various questions about the hinges, etc. So bear with me this is very pic heavy and written kind of for newbs, but its got some meat as well.
Tools: Dremel with metal cutting disc, or other small maneuverable metal cutting tool, Phillips Head Screw Driver, 4 7/16ths pins, 10mm socket
**Check your local laws and ordanances regarding doors, and mirrors**
All off
Front off
First things first, before unbolting or unhooking anything, if you wish to have your rear window down, do it now, cause once the front doors are off it, and the back door windows will not work they are "locked" also which ever doors you plan on taking off roll those windows down as well, it will make them easier to handle and pick up.
Next to avoid unbolting 4 bolts per door, then having to align each small bolt into its respective home while holding the heavy door, I made "quick release" hinges
Pic of Bolts
Then Cut the stock pins using the dremel, or other tool. I started with the bottom, then did the top. (only do one at a time to make it easier to put the pins in, and to allow for stability)
Then jiggle the door up and down while forcing the factory pins out.
Once they are out you can let the door down slowely and softly.
Then get the 7/16ths pin (Im 95% sure i used 7/16ths, if you have any doubts, cut the bottom factory pin on one door, then pull only the bottom half off and take it to the store, if the top half of the bottom pin is left in it will be stable enough for a quick trip. I used standard instead of metric to allow it to be a little bit smaller so it will be easier to fit the pin into the hole.
I used a table grinder to make the tip of the pin into a semi rounded point, so once again it will make it easier to allign, if you can get it a little bit, then you should be able to force it the rest of the way in.
Once you have all the pins replaced, Now you can take off the doors!
(CHECK THE WEATHER FIRST!!!!!!!)
First as mentioned make sure the windows are down on the doors you are
taking off, and the rear window if you like it down. Now remove the kick panels both on the floor, and the pannel just below the dash.
Next unplug the 2 wires leading into the door. The Blue and Black ones on the passangers side, and the Blue and white ones on the drivers side
On the drivers side (coming from the door) i unplugged it before the foam connector thing, to make it easier to fit through the door jamb pannel
Next pull the rubber connector out of the car door pannel and feed the wires through
Then so you wont have the dome light on and have to deal with the nagging door ajar signals I unplugged the door sensor. Pull the cover off the center beam post.
And unplug the little wire
Next re-assemble all the kick pannels and such.
Then using the 10mm socket disconnect the little black thing (i dont know the name) that holds the door open from the body.
Then lifting up and down on the door, you can pull the pins out, once again i start with the bottom, then on re-assembly i start with the top, it allows for you to take a small break cause the door can be heavy, Then your done!!
Hope this was helpful, comments, changes, and suggestions are welcome!
Tools: Dremel with metal cutting disc, or other small maneuverable metal cutting tool, Phillips Head Screw Driver, 4 7/16ths pins, 10mm socket
**Check your local laws and ordanances regarding doors, and mirrors**
All off
Front off
First things first, before unbolting or unhooking anything, if you wish to have your rear window down, do it now, cause once the front doors are off it, and the back door windows will not work they are "locked" also which ever doors you plan on taking off roll those windows down as well, it will make them easier to handle and pick up.
Next to avoid unbolting 4 bolts per door, then having to align each small bolt into its respective home while holding the heavy door, I made "quick release" hinges
Pic of Bolts
Then Cut the stock pins using the dremel, or other tool. I started with the bottom, then did the top. (only do one at a time to make it easier to put the pins in, and to allow for stability)
Then jiggle the door up and down while forcing the factory pins out.
Once they are out you can let the door down slowely and softly.
Then get the 7/16ths pin (Im 95% sure i used 7/16ths, if you have any doubts, cut the bottom factory pin on one door, then pull only the bottom half off and take it to the store, if the top half of the bottom pin is left in it will be stable enough for a quick trip. I used standard instead of metric to allow it to be a little bit smaller so it will be easier to fit the pin into the hole.
I used a table grinder to make the tip of the pin into a semi rounded point, so once again it will make it easier to allign, if you can get it a little bit, then you should be able to force it the rest of the way in.
Once you have all the pins replaced, Now you can take off the doors!
(CHECK THE WEATHER FIRST!!!!!!!)
First as mentioned make sure the windows are down on the doors you are
taking off, and the rear window if you like it down. Now remove the kick panels both on the floor, and the pannel just below the dash.
Next unplug the 2 wires leading into the door. The Blue and Black ones on the passangers side, and the Blue and white ones on the drivers side
On the drivers side (coming from the door) i unplugged it before the foam connector thing, to make it easier to fit through the door jamb pannel
Next pull the rubber connector out of the car door pannel and feed the wires through
Then so you wont have the dome light on and have to deal with the nagging door ajar signals I unplugged the door sensor. Pull the cover off the center beam post.
And unplug the little wire
Next re-assemble all the kick pannels and such.
Then using the 10mm socket disconnect the little black thing (i dont know the name) that holds the door open from the body.
Then lifting up and down on the door, you can pull the pins out, once again i start with the bottom, then on re-assembly i start with the top, it allows for you to take a small break cause the door can be heavy, Then your done!!
Hope this was helpful, comments, changes, and suggestions are welcome!
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Good write up I'll think about doing this one day. Try column listing the parts and their respective prices, along with an est. total cost and labor time somewhere to complete it.
After the doors are off, put your key in the tailgate keyhole and hold in either the lock or unlock position, see if the window will still operate that way
After the doors are off, put your key in the tailgate keyhole and hold in either the lock or unlock position, see if the window will still operate that way
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Good write up I'll think about doing this one day. Try column listing the parts and their respective prices, along with an est. total cost and labor time somewhere to complete it.
After the doors are off, put your key in the tailgate keyhole and hold in either the lock or unlock position, see if the window will still operate that way
After the doors are off, put your key in the tailgate keyhole and hold in either the lock or unlock position, see if the window will still operate that way
If its dry heck yah I am.. the front doors fit wonderfully in the back
Last edited by VSU_4runnin; 06-23-2009 at 11:32 PM.
#7
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Must havve missed something here ... and we remove the doors for what reason?? Seems the door impact panels are going to be a bit useless in this configuration. As for off roading, I kinda like the idea that if I get into a situtation that would cause sever damage to my door, if its gone, its gonna do the damage to my body .... Hmmmmmm Sorry if I don't understand the purpose or reason. I always went off-roading in a complete vehicle, just a safety thing in my mind, but hey always open to suggestions
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Well for offroading it gives you a better sightline, enables you to jump in and out fast. And overall its just a cheap fast fun little mod that anyone can do. That and its wonderful for those of us who live where its near 100* with 65%+ humidity everyday for nearly 6 months out of the year
#9
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IMO this thread needs some searching tags or something.
Took me damn near 45 mins. to find it.
How to remove 3rd gen 4Runner doors and make quick release
Took me damn near 45 mins. to find it.
How to remove 3rd gen 4Runner doors and make quick release
#10
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The pins are ~~5/16"ths, not 7/16ths. A 2" long celvis pin is just long enough to go through all the way. I imagine a 2.5-3" long pin would be better.
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Must havve missed something here ... and we remove the doors for what reason?? Seems the door impact panels are going to be a bit useless in this configuration. As for off roading, I kinda like the idea that if I get into a situtation that would cause sever damage to my door, if its gone, its gonna do the damage to my body .... Hmmmmmm Sorry if I don't understand the purpose or reason. I always went off-roading in a complete vehicle, just a safety thing in my mind, but hey always open to suggestions
>>>>heeeeere's your sign
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FOG
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I'm with Fog and Ritzy, it just doesn't look natural with the doors off like a Jeep does. I understand the function of having the doors off, but IMO it makes it look like you just pulled the thing out of a salvage yard.