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Persistent Starter Problems on 98 4Runner

Old 01-21-2008, 05:25 PM
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Persistent Starter Problems on 98 4Runner

98 3.4L V6 Auto 4runner Limited

A few weeks ago, I started getting intermittent starter problems. I would get a single click from the solenoid on turning the ignition, but it would not turn over. After a few tries it would fire up like normal. This basically got more and more frequent until last week when it would not start after 20+ tries.

Since my battery had a few years on it anyway, I went ahead and replaced it with a brand new one from NAPA, and cleaned the connections at the post. It didn't help.

After searhing the previous threads on starter contact replacement, I was able to pull the starter and replace the contacts yesterday. Runner fired up right away, and I started it multiple times in a row to test it. I drove it to and from work today with no issues. I was very happy to have the issue resolved, until a little bit ago when it wont start again.

So bottom line.. battery is known good, and starter contacts are known good. Where should I look next? Starter relay? Any help would be much appreciated.
Old 01-21-2008, 06:39 PM
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its possible you didnt get the contacts perfectly flat and didnt clean off the plunger. its easy to cock the contact when you tighten the external cable on the starter
Old 01-21-2008, 06:41 PM
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i had the same problem and fixed mine by purchasing and installing a Painless Hot Shot Wiring Relay. They are only $25.00 at www.summitracing.com. They are very easy to wire up and come with excellent directions.

check out this thread https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120...otshot-115097/

Last edited by 881stGenRunner; 01-21-2008 at 06:43 PM.
Old 01-21-2008, 06:45 PM
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if the OP gets that starter relay, please report back to this thread with your results, thanks
Old 01-21-2008, 06:48 PM
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Hopefully it wil work on 3rd gens. I have one on my 88 3.0 and my bro has one on his 93 3.0. Both times the Hot Shot has solved the problem, and neither of us have had a problem with them since.
Old 01-21-2008, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by toytech76
its possible you didnt get the contacts perfectly flat and didnt clean off the plunger. its easy to cock the contact when you tighten the external cable on the starter

I was worried about something like this. It seemed fine when I started it last night and this morning, but I guess its possible something wasn't in perfectly or got jarred on the road. In any case, I guess I will pull the starter again and take a look this weekend. Should go a little quicker now that I have done it once.

I did clean off the plunger with some electrical contact cleaner, some sandpaper and a toothbrush. I wish I would have just replaced it now.

If that doesn't work, I will look in to the relay option. Looks like replacing the toyota relay would be about the same as the hot shot (assuming it is ok to use it on the 3rd gen runners). Beyond that, I am not sure what to do.

Can anyone explain the ignition circuit or provide a schematic? I realize that the black plastic connector comes from the ignition switch. I assume the starter is grounded by contact to the block. Does the main power connection (the cable that bolts to the external contact) to the starter contact come directly from the battery via the starter relay in the fuse box? I appreciate the info so far.
Old 01-21-2008, 08:50 PM
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Dont mean to knock on ya for rebuilding it. But since you had it out, why not replace it? Besides it being kinda pricey, I mean for as hard as it is to get out, why not make sure the one your putting back in is 100%.
But again that may not be your problem. Ive had certain instances where i wasnt getting a full voltage/amperage down to the switch side of the started, due to a bad wire, loose connection, faulty ign. switch. All these are posibilities. What i would do, is jump the starter POS cable and the switch side (make sure your in neutral, wheels chocked) if it cranks, it would be safe to assume that the starter, battery, and battery cables are "ok". Id then look at power goin to the switch side of starter.
And to answere your question if im not mistaken, the ign switch wire does go to a relay, then from the relay to the starter switch side.
Old 01-21-2008, 10:05 PM
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I too have had similar problems. I've replaced the starter and the battery and had zero troubles until today.

I was in the parking lot at Lowes and I went to start it like usual and all I got was a click. I thought this was majorly f'd up since I just replaced the battery and starter, so I called the old man. He tells me to grab a wrench and turn the crankshaft. I turned it and then it started right up. I thought maybe this was a one time thing but the next time went to start the same thing happened. About 15 minutes of turning the crankshaft it finally started again.

I'll have to admit I'm little worried it won't start in the morning when I go to work. Anybody have some insight on this particular sitamation?
Old 01-22-2008, 02:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr_Martinez1982
Dont mean to knock on ya for rebuilding it. But since you had it out, why not replace it? Besides it being kinda pricey, I mean for as hard as it is to get out, why not make sure the one your putting back in is 100%.
But again that may not be your problem. Ive had certain instances where i wasnt getting a full voltage/amperage down to the switch side of the started, due to a bad wire, loose connection, faulty ign. switch. All these are posibilities. What i would do, is jump the starter POS cable and the switch side (make sure your in neutral, wheels chocked) if it cranks, it would be safe to assume that the starter, battery, and battery cables are "ok". Id then look at power goin to the switch side of starter.
And to answere your question if im not mistaken, the ign switch wire does go to a relay, then from the relay to the starter switch side.
He probably did the rebuild because for the overwhelming majority of people with starting problems such as his, it was enough to do the trick and saved them a heap of money.

Yeah, I would probably look at the ignition switch and the other items you mentioned first before pulling starter again. Sounds like he cleaned everything pretty well when he pulled it apart.

My best guess is that the starter is OK now and that your problems lie elsewhere.
Old 01-22-2008, 08:13 AM
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Is it possible that one of the starter wires has come loose?

When you try to start is now, are you getting the "click" or no noise at all?
Old 01-22-2008, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by element
Is it possible that one of the starter wires has come loose?

When you try to start is now, are you getting the "click" or no noise at all?
It clicks every time.

Last edited by elburritobandito; 01-22-2008 at 10:30 AM.
Old 01-22-2008, 06:30 PM
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ummmk... for the sailor guy... ive seen this trick done before, Usually when it starts after turnin the fly wheel its cause it (the flywheel) may have a bad spot (missing teeth). Besides that not sure what turning the flywheel and starter have in common. But who knows, Im jus a youngster, your old man probably knows better than i.

As for El bandito Burrito... have you checked your Positive an negative battery cables? !2v at the starter is all fine an dandy..LOL but amps is what actually turns your engine. You may have bad cables. If possible, check the voltage while someone turns the key inside (Im assuming the switch side of the start system is ok, since it clicks everytime) ALSO: before i forget disable your ignition coil, would hate for it to start with you underthere.
Back to the voltage, what your looking for is 12v at the pos cable at the starter, once the key is turned on (in some cases you can even get a voltage drop jus wiggling the cable) you should keep that 12 volts, if it drops drastically, your lookin at a bad cable. Good Luck. an be carefull.
Old 01-23-2008, 05:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr_Martinez1982
As for El bandito Burrito... have you checked your Positive an negative battery cables? !2v at the starter is all fine an dandy..LOL but amps is what actually turns your engine. You may have bad cables. If possible, check the voltage while someone turns the key inside (Im assuming the switch side of the start system is ok, since it clicks everytime) ALSO: before i forget disable your ignition coil, would hate for it to start with you underthere.
Back to the voltage, what your looking for is 12v at the pos cable at the starter, once the key is turned on (in some cases you can even get a voltage drop jus wiggling the cable) you should keep that 12 volts, if it drops drastically, your lookin at a bad cable. Good Luck. an be carefull.
I didn't have time to do it last night, but tonight I plan on just disconnecting the old cable, and jumpering a new cable from the positive battery post to the starter terminal and seeing if it will crank. That is the easiest way to test what you are describing. If that works, it's pretty clear that the battery connection to the starter contact is shady. If it doesn't help, I will put 12V to the switch side of the starter and see if it does anything. Right now, I am guessing its probably bad spot in armature of the motor. Thanks for the input.
Old 01-23-2008, 05:18 AM
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You may want to loook at the solenoid too.
Old 01-23-2008, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by toytech76
its possible you didnt get the contacts perfectly flat and didnt clean off the plunger. its easy to cock the contact when you tighten the external cable on the starter
DING!

Good call. I got in there and tightened everything down and it works great now. It must have had enough play to come loose as I was driving home Monday. Hopefully, that will be the end of it. Stupid, albeit cheap, mistake.

Thanks to everyone who posted!
Old 01-23-2008, 05:50 PM
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I had the same problem with my truck and it turned out to be the ground wire. I put a new battery, 2 starters, pos battery cable. When I was getting ready to try to start it my nephew noticed some smoke from the neg cable where it hooks to the block. I unbolted it the end was very badly corroded. I just used a jumper cable from the battery to the block and it fired right up. I replaced the cable and no more problems. A lot of people, me included, don't think to check the ground. Hope this helps. Good luck
Old 03-02-2008, 06:50 PM
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on mine I cranked the hell out of those nuts and both coppers had a little tilt

toyo manual states to put a block of wood in there, in a press, so you can crank
the nuts down and the contacts won't rotate. pretty involved, but it is the official procedure

what I did was crank them down, and then tap the square inside bolt head on the edge
with a punch and it flattened them. plus, the new plunger doesn't hurt either



for anyone thinking of doing this...get a contact kit with new plunger. so that
all electrical contacts have all new copper

clickerfixer on ebay has kits. just did my 99 4runner ltd and the starter has
tons o power now

Last edited by edzo; 03-02-2008 at 06:53 PM.
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