Notices
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

P1300 Code on a 99 T4R

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-16-2013, 04:04 AM
  #1  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Newdawn88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
P1300 Code on a 99 T4R

Just so you all know I read and tried every suggestion on the threads previosuly posted about the P1300 and still have not resolved my problem.

99 T4R Limited 6 cyl. Totally stock.

Symptoms: code P1300, Engine cranks over but will not start. Can smell raw fuel after a few times of attempting.

Replaced:
ECU (Toyota Replacement Program,Thank you Toyota USA),
Ignitor
1- Coil Pack
NGK Dual Plugs and NGK Wires
MAF
TPS
Fuel Filter
Crankshaft Sensor

Replaced 2 years ago: The other 2 coil packs

Replaced 5 years ago: all new exhaust including CAT and O2's. (thiefs stole it)

Security System appears to be in order and indicator on dash is working as it always has. So Imobilizer appears to be fine as well.

Anyone have any new ideas?
Old 12-16-2013, 11:19 AM
  #2  
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
 
wyoming9's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Posts: 13,381
Received 99 Likes on 86 Posts
Red face

When you were replacing all these goodies did you take the time to clean the pins and sockets on all the connectors??

I ended up having to run the ECM ground direct to the battery .

It all comes down to I am sure your aware the ECM is not detecting the signal form the igniter. It should shut the fuel off .

If you clear the code does it start but shut right off as soon as the malfunction is detected??


Was the wiring checked for damage

Your only getting the one code??

And you have done all the diagnostics for your P01300 code in the FSM for your year and model?? With no problem found???
Old 12-16-2013, 12:26 PM
  #3  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Newdawn88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
No I didn't clean each connector, but I did look at them closely and believe it or not they all looked brand new. No dirt or grime, no corrosion. I live in the desert so moisture is not an issue. Gosh I wish it was this simple. :-(

Cleared the code and still will not start and then code comes back after attempted starts.

Yes worked through all the general possibilities in FSM. Replaced every possible part mentioned.

I have not traced the wires back all the way but what I can see seems to be in order.

Initially there were 4 codes but as parts were replaced they went away leaving me with the pesky p1300.

Next step is to send the ignitor back in case it is defective. In the mean time I will start checking the wires for possible issues.

I appreciate your time and knowledge Wyoming9
Old 12-16-2013, 01:32 PM
  #4  
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
 
wyoming9's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Posts: 13,381
Received 99 Likes on 86 Posts
Red face

Lets back up here !!

Just when or how did this all start??

Bought vehicle in a non running state??


You would be surprised at connectors that look fine to the naked cause all sorts of problems.

Living in the dry climate helps

All the goodies you replaced where brand new you didn`t go cheap on parts.

It is possible you have new parts that failed or were bad to start

The igniters are common over a few years have any friends you can try.

If you were closer I would be glad to help in person

Just a thought this is the factory alarm just how does it protect the vehicle.

Is it wired into the ECM??

Last edited by wyoming9; 12-16-2013 at 01:35 PM.
Old 12-18-2013, 08:07 AM
  #5  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Newdawn88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I am the 2nd owner and have had it since 2005 or so.
It started after I filled the gas tank up and drove it home back in Oct. Went to go another place and all was fine. Got out of the store and it would not start. Simply had it towed home to inspect.

The original codes I had were:
P0171 - to lean
P0120 - TPS
P0446 - EVAP
P1300- Ignitor

Yes all the parts are new, not oem but what I would call decent parts. I have always bought parts from BAP for this vehicle and never had any issues. BAP is now Parts Authority as of 2 weeks ago. Unlike O'Reileys who seem to always give me the wrong part or bad parts for my Nissan. Refuse to go there now.

I did get the ignitor from Amazon in this case and am in the process of returning it. Just in case it is bad. My son went to the junk yard yesterday and pulled another ignitor from a truck that had been rear ended in hopes that it was a running truck when it was hit. That used ignitor did not solve it either. I mean really what are the chances that 3 ignitors are bad. Moved beyond that for now.

I dont know anyone with a Yota my year(ish) to swap parts with. My sons T4R is an 85 or 86 so that is not going to help. I also wish you were close by and I appreciate your offer.

Funny you asked how that darn factory alarm works. Well from what I know it immobilizes the ignition unless you have the correctly programmed key. Toyota just did all that programming last week. The key will not even turn the motor over if it was not programmed correctly. I also found out that if you just put the hood down in a nearly closed position but not actually latched that when you return to raise the hood the alarm goes nuts! Someone also told me that if a window is broken it will sound the alarm as well.

As far as being wired to the ECM I assume it is and was done correctly at the dealership when they replaced the ECM.

I looked at all the wires leading from the ignitor the best I could and don't see anything that looks out of order. All vacuum lines and such also look great.

Im now going back to the original list of codes and am thinking maybe it is the EVAP system. Possibly overfilled with gas that day and soaked the charcoal. Sure wish it was summer time in the desert right now (you will never hear me say that again *smile*) because I would take that canister out and lay it in the blazing sun to dry out.

Thanks for all your input. I cant wait for the day when its solved and can post the solutions.
Old 12-18-2013, 08:23 AM
  #6  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Newdawn88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
And to add why I am now looking at the charcoal canister and the components is because of the strong smell of raw fuel in the engine bay.
Old 12-18-2013, 11:43 AM
  #7  
Registered User
 
tantacoma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Folsom, CA
Posts: 197
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Have you confirmed that you are not getting spark from the coils?
Old 12-18-2013, 12:43 PM
  #8  
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
 
wyoming9's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Posts: 13,381
Received 99 Likes on 86 Posts
Red face

Look the Evap system will not keep the truck from starting .

Do you have the Diagnostics section from the Factory Service Manual ??

It tells you all the values to trouble shoot this system .

your just throwing parts with out at least a code reader and the diagnostics and a decent mulitimeter

When I moved to these Engines I had to buy a scanner that reads live data makes it so much easier.

The P01300 when tripped the ECM does not see the IGF signal with no signal it shuts the injectors and fuel pump off.

No sense dumping gas into a vehicle with no spark.

Just because a ECM was replaced does not mean it has not failed things go kaboom all the time.

It is also tripped when the engine is running and it does not see the signal

It comes down to the ECM or The Igniter or the wiring between the 2

Could be a pin got bent when a connector was not lined up correct I see that so often on Brand new Welders that don`t work out of the box.

It will not start till the problem is corrected or the code is cleared.

You can easy check if the igniter is good if you have your FSM.

Good luck!!
Old 12-19-2013, 08:20 AM
  #9  
Registered User
 
tantacoma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Folsom, CA
Posts: 197
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally Posted by Newdawn88

Security System appears to be in order and indicator on dash is working as it always has. So Imobilizer appears to be fine as well.

Anyone have any new ideas?
Another likely suspect. Try disabling/removing, the Security System. Maybe its stuck in 'imobilize' mode. I had a similar problem many years ago in a Corolla.
Old 12-22-2013, 02:18 AM
  #10  
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
 
wyoming9's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Posts: 13,381
Received 99 Likes on 86 Posts
Red face

Have you made any progress?/

Just got the gas can and a flare and walked away??
Old 12-27-2013, 06:51 AM
  #11  
Registered User
Thread Starter
 
Newdawn88's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Actually I have made no progress. As you had said EVAP had nothing to do with it, but just on a whim I did take it all out and tested the switching thingy.(sorry forgot what it was called)Any how it tested good. (Peace of mind insurance). Since then I had to step away for a while to keep my sanity. The only thing I have done in the past week is kick the bumper in frustration as I walk by. I don’t have a FSM or a live feed data reader just the basic code reader. Never needed one till now. I guess this girl is in over her head. I can replace parts all day long but figuring out which part is the right one, well that takes more experience than I have obviously. My bank account is empty till Jan 15th and my next investment will be FSM. Or maybe as you said a few gallons of gas and a little spark. Thank you for all your input I really appreciate your time and knowledge.

Last edited by rworegon; 06-28-2014 at 08:18 AM.
Old 12-27-2013, 07:47 AM
  #12  
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
 
93NMyota's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Northern New Mexico
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I've been following this thread as my 93 with a 2000 5vz has been giving me the po1300 as well. It starts and runs fine but occasionally after its warmed up and I go to start again it had a rougher start. But again it always starts. I have the Toyota manual for the 2000 year let me know what you need from it maybe I can help. I can look up the pages where it shows the diagnostics of the 1300
Old 12-28-2013, 02:31 PM
  #13  
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
 
wyoming9's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Posts: 13,381
Received 99 Likes on 86 Posts
Red face

The simple is The P01300 means the ECM is unable to get a signal telling it the igniter is firing .

Then in a self saving measure the ECM shuts off the fuel by not firing the injectors

Now I think this started in 98 or 99 not 100% sure without looking

You check the igniter the connections and wiring to the ECM

The ECM

It comes down to a bad igniter bad ECM or the wiring and connections between the two.
Old 03-16-2014, 11:44 AM
  #14  
Registered User
 
Darryl01088's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Did u resolve this? My 01 is suffering from an intermittent P1300 too. So far no issues starting or running but I m reluctant to drive anywhere do to this. Lucky for me I have another car but it's frustrating. I cleaned the body ground on the firewall and I cleaned all the electrical connectors for the igniter and coils. Waiting to see if it comes back again I m sure it will.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
moparbay
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
5
10-06-2015 09:24 AM
bradahman
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
8
10-01-2015 09:24 AM
charlie_fong
General Vehicle Related Topics (Non Year Related)
0
09-27-2015 10:06 PM
Odin
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
3
09-26-2015 06:56 PM
Draven023
Newbie Tech Section
3
09-26-2015 12:41 PM



Quick Reply: P1300 Code on a 99 T4R



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 01:11 AM.