P0446 code - what have you replaced to fix?
11-23-2009, 05:32 PM
#21
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As far as the LA#4 drive cycle, what are the specifics of the drive cycle? For example: to set the O2 sensor it is something to the effect of: idle in order to warm up to operating temp (cold start), drive 40 MPH for 2-3 miles then let idle for 5 minutes. Don't quote me on that drive cycle or anything, I was just giving a hypothetical example. When I called the dealership, they had absolutely no clue what I was talking about when I asked them to look up the LA#4 drive cycle. I called several dealerships too.
I tried to diagnose my EVAP system and I found that truthfully after all the many times the CEL came on, it was worth the money to pay the dealer that had the scan tool $95 to diagnose. I don't ever take my vehicle to the shop or a dealer unless it is under recall, under warranty or something I just can not put my finger on to pinpoint the culprit. I didn't even have a vacuum gauge to diagnose the canister. I tried to follow the FSM as much as I could to the T is all I could do. In my case, it was something I just couldn't pinpoint.
I tried to diagnose my EVAP system and I found that truthfully after all the many times the CEL came on, it was worth the money to pay the dealer that had the scan tool $95 to diagnose. I don't ever take my vehicle to the shop or a dealer unless it is under recall, under warranty or something I just can not put my finger on to pinpoint the culprit. I didn't even have a vacuum gauge to diagnose the canister. I tried to follow the FSM as much as I could to the T is all I could do. In my case, it was something I just couldn't pinpoint.
03-17-2010, 08:40 AM
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I've been tracking down a P0442 code and this thread has been very helpful. The info provided in the FSM is confusing but the info in post #18 sheds a lot of light on the subject and was very informative.
04-26-2010, 01:31 PM
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2000 camry le 4 cyl
Yep that is correct. The P0441 code is technically the "purge" code but the possible trouble areas and diagnosis is the same as the P0446 code per FSM. EVAP problems can be seen in one of two possible problems in general:
1) You have a leak (P0440 or "big leak" and P0442 or "small leak")
2) You have bad air flow within your EVAP system (P0446 and P0441).
The P0446 code hopefully for you can indicate a VSV that is not functioning correctly. The most common one that fails is the hardest to get to and is located just outside the canister. In fact, the dealer doesn't even stock the other 2 VSV's under the hood, but they should stock the VSV just outside the canister. This is because over time the charcoal canister looses charcoal bits and they get caught inside that VSV just outside the canister causing it to fail and not switch back and forth. The charcoal bits don't hardly ever end up in the 2 VSVs under the hood since it is a LONG way to go. You have to remove the canister to get to that VSV just outside the canister. There are LOTS of hoses to keep track of and don't put a hole in one of them or you will end up with a bigger problem in the end.
The P/N is: 90910-12264 and it should be around $50
But you don't know if that is for sure your problem. That part is the most common if you don't want to pay the $95 diagnostic fee that the stealer charges. Then that $95 can go to labor if you wish. You can either spend $50 guessing and possibly be wrong, or spend $95 and hopefully get the correct answer.
After all my research, I figured that it was better for me to spend $50 and have a high chance of fixing the problem in my financial situation. I don't know if the previous owner overfilled my gas tank at all so I didn't have any info to go by either.
1) You have a leak (P0440 or "big leak" and P0442 or "small leak")
2) You have bad air flow within your EVAP system (P0446 and P0441).
The P0446 code hopefully for you can indicate a VSV that is not functioning correctly. The most common one that fails is the hardest to get to and is located just outside the canister. In fact, the dealer doesn't even stock the other 2 VSV's under the hood, but they should stock the VSV just outside the canister. This is because over time the charcoal canister looses charcoal bits and they get caught inside that VSV just outside the canister causing it to fail and not switch back and forth. The charcoal bits don't hardly ever end up in the 2 VSVs under the hood since it is a LONG way to go. You have to remove the canister to get to that VSV just outside the canister. There are LOTS of hoses to keep track of and don't put a hole in one of them or you will end up with a bigger problem in the end.
The P/N is: 90910-12264 and it should be around $50
But you don't know if that is for sure your problem. That part is the most common if you don't want to pay the $95 diagnostic fee that the stealer charges. Then that $95 can go to labor if you wish. You can either spend $50 guessing and possibly be wrong, or spend $95 and hopefully get the correct answer.
After all my research, I figured that it was better for me to spend $50 and have a high chance of fixing the problem in my financial situation. I don't know if the previous owner overfilled my gas tank at all so I didn't have any info to go by either.
thanks
04-27-2010, 06:43 AM
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Would this be the same part # for a 2000 camry le 4 cyl (Cal emissions) ? If so, any diagrams on what to change would be helpful. I can't afford to have a dealer drain me while "figuring things out". I'm willing to spend the $50 and my own grunt work to try and clear this. It's keeping me from getting an inspection sticker.
thanks
thanks
Here are some TSBs with regards to your issue to look at if you want:
http://dutch.northwestmr2.com/Toyota.../Engine/06.pdf
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/PE...314_camry1.pdf
Here is where I got all my info, it helped me a lot: http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forum...nd-vsv-valve/.
I would first change the valves with Toyota valve by the charcoal canister (VSV for VPS/VCV), then if the light continues to come on, buy the canister (less miles the better) from a junk yard through car-part.com and it should fix the problem.
Don't overfill your tank, when putting gas in, once it clicks, it is done. Don't keep pushing gas into the car. What happens with a lot of people is that they keep overfilling their gas tank, the gas then gets into the charcoal canister and ruins it. It is about $400 from the stealer for the canister alone. I think that a lot of people don't know this.
Hope this helps.
Last edited by stir_fry_boy; 04-27-2010 at 07:15 AM.
12-06-2011, 08:27 PM
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GA22RE, Great post. One of the best of web.
I have a P0441, P0442, P0446 with pending P0442, P0446.
The 2003 Sienna XLE has been checked:
1. I checked 3 electrical VSV's and were okay. Week later. Codes returned and CCV was bad (leaked when powered) and replaced.
2. Week later MIL back on with same codes. I gave up and brought car to a local independent shop, who used a Snap-on scanner. Replaced gas cap. The week later tightened a hose clamp (I don't know which one).
3. Referred to Smog test and repair station. Smoke test okay, pressure test and vacuum tested were okay. Tested 3 electrical valves (CCV, EVAP and switching) and 2 vacuum valves on the canister okay. He can't find anything wrong. MIL stayed off long enough to pass SMOG test but came back 3 days later.
4. Now the gas pump stops during fill up.
Are there any other valves? I'm at a loss of what to do. Any suggestions?
I'm hesitant to bring back to the two local Toyota dealers due their bad reputation on web and experiencing the poor repairs and bad diagnosis.
The "Readiness Monitor Drive Patters" to trigger computer to running the test are in TSB EG000-02 Revised. Pdf copy is on web. Found using Google.
I have a P0441, P0442, P0446 with pending P0442, P0446.
The 2003 Sienna XLE has been checked:
1. I checked 3 electrical VSV's and were okay. Week later. Codes returned and CCV was bad (leaked when powered) and replaced.
2. Week later MIL back on with same codes. I gave up and brought car to a local independent shop, who used a Snap-on scanner. Replaced gas cap. The week later tightened a hose clamp (I don't know which one).
3. Referred to Smog test and repair station. Smoke test okay, pressure test and vacuum tested were okay. Tested 3 electrical valves (CCV, EVAP and switching) and 2 vacuum valves on the canister okay. He can't find anything wrong. MIL stayed off long enough to pass SMOG test but came back 3 days later.
4. Now the gas pump stops during fill up.
Are there any other valves? I'm at a loss of what to do. Any suggestions?
I'm hesitant to bring back to the two local Toyota dealers due their bad reputation on web and experiencing the poor repairs and bad diagnosis.
The "Readiness Monitor Drive Patters" to trigger computer to running the test are in TSB EG000-02 Revised. Pdf copy is on web. Found using Google.
Last edited by OnTheRoad; 12-06-2011 at 08:32 PM. Reason: clarification and addressing question on how to trigger the tests
12-08-2011, 10:39 AM
#28
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Mine's a 97 so I've got the evap canister in the engine compartment. I've got the 0446 code and I haven't bothered with it too much since I don't have to get smogged unless I plan on selling the vehicle (yeah right), but the cel is annoying so I figured I'd tinker with it today.
I pulled out the charcoal canister to look for cracks. The vacuum hoses don't look really good and I figure that's cheap enough to just do anyway so those will get swapped later today.
I found a little crack/separation in canister here:
Do you think this could be throwing the code? Can I just seal it up with something that would be ok for fuel vapor? Any suggestions? Or should I just get a new canister?
I'm not doing anything until after I change vacuum hoses, but just something to think about.
I pulled out the charcoal canister to look for cracks. The vacuum hoses don't look really good and I figure that's cheap enough to just do anyway so those will get swapped later today.
I found a little crack/separation in canister here:
Do you think this could be throwing the code? Can I just seal it up with something that would be ok for fuel vapor? Any suggestions? Or should I just get a new canister?
I'm not doing anything until after I change vacuum hoses, but just something to think about.
Last edited by JBurt; 12-08-2011 at 10:40 AM.
12-09-2011, 01:49 PM
#29
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Test or repairing switching VSV before purchasing a new canister.
Mine's a 97 so I've got the evap canister in the engine compartment. I've got the 0446 code .....Do you think this could be throwing the code? Can I just seal it up with something that would be ok for fuel vapor? Any suggestions? Or should I just get a new canister?
I'm not doing anything until after I change vacuum hoses, but just something to think about.
I'm not doing anything until after I change vacuum hoses, but just something to think about.
After removing the gas fumes and cleaning, it might be repair by plastic welding.
The P0446 is caused by lots of problems, but one common one is the VSV (located at 1 to 2 o'clock in your picture?). The VSV alone is available from Toyota for $60. Directions on repairing that VSV is on:
http://steampunkworkshop.com/toyota-...r#comment-2574
IMHO and for my $, I would try a test and repair before replacing the entire canister ($300 for the part).
12-09-2011, 10:20 PM
#30
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How do you test the canister to see if it's leaking. All I've done so far is clean up the canister and replace the old hoses and reset the cel. Now I'm just waiting to see if it comes back on. Thanks for the tip.
12-10-2011, 06:54 PM
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A leak can be detected by pressurizing the canister with all the lines sealed off to 2 psi and check to see if it holds pressure or use children's bubble ($1) on the canister The soaping bubble can be rinse off with water. Use inert gas and not high pressure air for dieseling can cause an explosion.
10-14-2012, 03:48 PM
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Mine's a 97 so I've got the evap canister in the engine compartment. I've got the 0446 code and I haven't bothered with it too much since I don't have to get smogged unless I plan on selling the vehicle (yeah right), but the cel is annoying so I figured I'd tinker with it today.
I pulled out the charcoal canister to look for cracks. The vacuum hoses don't look really good and I figure that's cheap enough to just do anyway so those will get swapped later today.
I found a little crack/separation in canister here:
Do you think this could be throwing the code? Can I just seal it up with something that would be ok for fuel vapor? Any suggestions? Or should I just get a new canister?
I'm not doing anything until after I change vacuum hoses, but just something to think about.
I pulled out the charcoal canister to look for cracks. The vacuum hoses don't look really good and I figure that's cheap enough to just do anyway so those will get swapped later today.
I found a little crack/separation in canister here:
Do you think this could be throwing the code? Can I just seal it up with something that would be ok for fuel vapor? Any suggestions? Or should I just get a new canister?
I'm not doing anything until after I change vacuum hoses, but just something to think about.
10-14-2012, 03:52 PM
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I have a 1999 4Runner V6 2wd and I just received the code P0446. I used to get a really bad fuel odor in the summer if I topped off, so I would just fill half a tank and it would keep the vapor pressure down, and my canister would not stink as bad; no CEL though. No that the weather is cooling down, I got a CEL, and when I checked it I got the code P0446. I checked my Hayes book but it is not very specific when it came to EVAP. Not sure if its the charcoal canister, the little vacuum sensor that travels over to another sensor through a tiny hose, or the sensor valve that travels to the top of my engine through a normal sized hose. I am told it could be the gas cap, one of those three sensors outside of my canister (all three have an electrical connection), or the canister itself. The canister seems to have valves inside of it too. Its a box shape with two cylinders on it with 6 hoses going in and out to many things. Everything is right there under my hood and accessible right behind the battery. What should I do... I refuse to take it to the stealership. I can fixed any thing on my vehicle with my Hayes book, but this one thing.
10-14-2012, 06:50 PM
#35
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That's the thing with most codes, you just have to go through and check all sources. With this code it could be any of those things you mentioned. I always start with the cheap if I don't see a big problem first. On an old maxima I had the canister went bad and when I pulled the vsv off on the engine there was a bunch of charcoal clogging up the valve! You never know. Good luck and share what you find. Mine was just those hoses.
04-11-2013, 04:59 AM
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Gentlemen,
I've searched several forums and have read some solutions, this forum seems to always have the best advice and answers so...
My daughter just purchased a 2008 4Runner on the 2nd day the CHECK ENGINE warning light came on, the "Skidding Car" (sorry) came on and the VSC OFF waring light is flashing.
Several forums state to unscrew and put fuel cap back on with one click only, then disconnect the positive battery connection for 30 seconds and re-connect to clear warning lights.
Did that procedure and indeed warning lights were off when restarting engine and driving BUT 2 1/2 days later, same trouble, did procedure again and corrected again...then another 2 1/2 days later warning lights come back on. The warning lights have not come on while being driven, the come on when the car is started on the occasions it has happened. I've ordered a new gas cap hoping that IS the problem and since it takes the 2 days for the warning lights to come on I'm thinking the VSC system is really OK.
So I'm looking for some advice or other possibilities creating the problem.
I've searched several forums and have read some solutions, this forum seems to always have the best advice and answers so...
My daughter just purchased a 2008 4Runner on the 2nd day the CHECK ENGINE warning light came on, the "Skidding Car" (sorry) came on and the VSC OFF waring light is flashing.
Several forums state to unscrew and put fuel cap back on with one click only, then disconnect the positive battery connection for 30 seconds and re-connect to clear warning lights.
Did that procedure and indeed warning lights were off when restarting engine and driving BUT 2 1/2 days later, same trouble, did procedure again and corrected again...then another 2 1/2 days later warning lights come back on. The warning lights have not come on while being driven, the come on when the car is started on the occasions it has happened. I've ordered a new gas cap hoping that IS the problem and since it takes the 2 days for the warning lights to come on I'm thinking the VSC system is really OK.
So I'm looking for some advice or other possibilities creating the problem.
04-11-2013, 06:34 AM
#37
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Starlite you'll get much better help if you start a thread or post in a similar thread in the 4th gen 4runner section here. The reason the light comes on every 2.5 days is that when you reset the computer (disconnecting the battery) the computer has to go through a diagnostic period (~80 miles) before the warning light comes back on. What you've been doing hasn't fixed anything. Try hooking it up to a scanner, pull some codes, and ask the question in the other section. I hope it works well for you. Always a bummer to be excited about a new car and right away you've got to fix something.
04-11-2013, 09:40 AM
#38
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J,
Thanks I did have the codes read a couple days ago...O'Rielly's said "emissions" code but I'll have to go again to get the number. Got a new cap today and will have to wait till my daughter comes home to replace it and see if that does it.
I'll look for my problem in the other section...I don't think I can start a thread yet.
Thanks I did have the codes read a couple days ago...O'Rielly's said "emissions" code but I'll have to go again to get the number. Got a new cap today and will have to wait till my daughter comes home to replace it and see if that does it.
I'll look for my problem in the other section...I don't think I can start a thread yet.
03-08-2014, 10:01 AM
#40
Same Code, but twice?
I got these exact same codes with my 02 Tundra. I am assuming the diagnosing techniques would be the same. So ill be working through the process starting today.
My only question was does it mean anything different if I got a repeat of both codes? What I mean by this is the display put P0446 and P0441 twice each. I have been using the diagnosing tool for years and have never seen it pop multiple of the same code like that.
Ill be taking pictures so you will all have the opportunity to call me stupid along the way!!!
(I'm actually fairly competent, I just love being sarcastic)
My only question was does it mean anything different if I got a repeat of both codes? What I mean by this is the display put P0446 and P0441 twice each. I have been using the diagnosing tool for years and have never seen it pop multiple of the same code like that.
Ill be taking pictures so you will all have the opportunity to call me stupid along the way!!!
(I'm actually fairly competent, I just love being sarcastic)
