fasthorse67

I just ordered my OME suspension from Man-A-Fre. I ordered the light/medium load. Does anyone have any tips that will make the installation smoother? Will I need an alignment after?

BoostinChick

Soak what you can in PB Blaster/Thrust/etc. a couple days before you attempt the install.

Cbohl51

^^

x2 on soaking things in PB Plaster.. stuff makes taking off suspension parts so much easier.

Take your time on the install, and don't rush it. If it ends up taking you 2 days, then let it take 2 days, as long as you do everything right.

You should get an alignment when it is all done as well.

DavidAlexander

An OME 5mm front trim packer, 10mm front top out spacers and new set of extended front studs would make the job really nice and easy. I just listed them in the marketplace.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f11/...packer-181389/

fasthorse67

What will those do for me? Why would it make things easier? I honestly haven't even looked at the suspension yet.

LuminoZ

I just did OME on my rig. PB Blaster is your new jesus! You can't use too much.

Be ready to order bolts/nuts from toyota if you have 'persuade' the old stuff to come off. I know I had to haul out the cut-off wheel a few times in my install...

After that, ENOJY!!!!

I can't say how happy am with my stuff!

BoostinChick

This is my jesus for buggered bolts:


http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...IrwinCat100511

Cbohl51

^^

Thanks for that link... just ordered a set of 13.

Usually end up pulling out the dremel, and cutting slits into the nut then removing it, but tight areas don't always allow that.

BoostinChick

They are awesome, my only word of advice is make sure you are on as flush as possible. Once they start to "bite" into the bolt they do not come off easy so knuckle bust city if they are not on flush or you will snap the head off the bolt. And as someone said before new hardware may be needed (especially if you use the bolt extractors).

jvh4513

You will probably need to use your stock jack upside down against the top of the wheel well to push the a-arm down in order to fit the longer shock in. Also, it will make it ALOT easier if you disconnect the swaybar from the lower suspension arm and also unbolt the 4 lower ball joint bolts (make sure you use that blue threadlock to retighten these bolts). You will need a jackstand and big floor jack for this.

Squiddy

Have a helper. Doing it solo blows

DavidAlexander

The 5mm trim packer is used to level the truck usually on the drivers side. It is specifically made to go on these trucks. The OME sets usually provide about an inch more lift in the back so the 10mm (1/2") spacers level it out a little by raising the front a little more.
Like the others have chimed in, having the new set of studs for the top plate can make your job go really smoothly. The hardware is usually pretty bad from exposure to the elements.

scuba

Congrats man !!

Your pile of junk should look something like my pile of junk..



Still waiting on rear springs though

*sigh*

LuminoZ

AMEN!

Just use your lever bar, or what I like to call my persuasion to finesse the from C/O's in. No need to undo all that nonsense.

fasthorse67

What's the trick to the upper mount of the rear shock. I soaked everything in mouse milk and when it came to the rear shock I couldn't even feel the nut. I hope the shock just turns into a nut that is welded up there.

okie81

PB blaster (as mentioned above) is gold. Make sure you clear out all the dirt, rocks, etc that accumulate up there before you spray or you'll have an oily mess to scoop out. Also, I found that removing the rubber hose off the gas tank on the rear drivers side made it easier to turn a ratchet up there. The passenger side rear wasn't much easier with a 2&1/2 inch exhaust right my way.
Just my $.02

4runner114

front shocks you wanna take some were to get the springs installed, trust me i fought with the autozone spring compresser for 2 days. make sure you align the top studs the way they came out on ur new front shocks. i used the stock bottle jack to push the uca down far enough that the shocks could fit in, they take alil poundn to get them in there. rear shocks arnt that bad, i would just cut them out if ur not gunna use the stock stuff again. you wanna put jackstands under the frame rails as high as you can so the axle can droop, get a floor jack and jack up one side of the axle until the spring practicaly falls out. then repeat on the other side and install your new shocks and springs. search around and ul find plenty of write ups. im 17 and have pretty much no mechanical skills what so ever and i did the lift in 2 days, of course i had air tools to

Parker Runner

The rear coils take about 30 minutes for me. After pulling them on and off several time (don't ask). Pull the sway, pull off the bottom end of the shocks and lift at the hitch.

el-guapin

Sawzall the rear shocks.. it will take less than a minute.

okie81

lol, I'm sure some people have contemplated that...