KrashDH

Ok so I had another thread about a carrier bearing issue that never seemed to be addressed. I am getting a bit frustrated because the stealership wants $180 for the carrier bearing alone!. Plus I'm not sure if i have the right puller for the flange, or if I can even get it.

I've been reading about Tom Woods around here. Their website is down for Yota's of course...so I'm inquiring on some info.

99 tacoma 2.7, 5spd, xtra cab, 160k miles. Stock except for headers, intake, cat (back). Do they make a one-piece for my truck? What would I be looking at for price? Is it worth replacing the carrier rather than a one piece? I don't have a lift or anything. I do not want to have the re-occurring carrier issue so some help/ adivce would be greatly appreciated. here is a link to my other thread if anyone wants to venture...

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/c.../#post51131932

Also RockAuto has carriers by BCA/national for $110 shipped. There is another company that makes them..Tezuka...they seem to run around $140 shipped. There is not a lot of reviews on these two companies but I went to the BCA/National website and they seem solid...any input on either of these?

KrashDH

Well, update I just ordered the center/carrier bearing by Tezuka. It was between that company and the National company. Took a look at the two bearings to compare and it looks like the Tezuka bearing is a bit higher quality (ie the flange of the bearing). Was $127 shipped but better than the $180 quote from Yota dealership.

So, the next couple weeks I have a plateful; work, rotors, calipers, bleeding, and then the carrier install. Will post again on how it went. Hope this solves the problem of the family of birds living in my drive shaft...

Jcam

Hey there, I Have a 99 prerunner and when i let off of the gas it get a crazy chirp/skreetch....have been told that replacing the driveshaft carrier bearing may end this. How would one do this? or might it be something else? Would it be better to have a local mech do it? Don't know too much about mech work.

Thanks for the help. jeff

KrashDH

Hey J,

First off as long as you have the xtra cab, you have a carrier. Second, I would NOT take it to a shop. It's fairly easy to replace with common tools. I got quoted over a GRAND for the work to be done. Hell no!

Third. Pinpoint your issue before you order anything. I originally thought it was my carrier. The chirp did it when I accelerated or slowed down, but ONLY when the driveshaft was spinning. This led me to believe it was the carrier. I ordered the part, and started the tear down.

I unbolted the flange(s) for the intermediate shaft (one with the bearing). Spun the bearing (off of the truck). There was no chirp. So I started playing with the propeller shaft (one that attaches to diff). It was pretty stiff, and when I moved it around, I got a squeak. I had found the culprit; It was a $20 u-joint that had seized up, because when I took it off the truck, I could not move it freely with my hand. When u joints go bad, they either get play, or they can seize. This made the job a bit harder, as you need a BFH and some sockets, as well as a vice to change a u joint (the home mechanic way)

But if it is in fact your carrier;
1) Either scratch or paint the flange and the corresponding flange it bolts to with paint. This allows the driveshaft to be reassembled the exact way it came off. This is KEY, or you will have bad vibrations, as from the factory the drivashaft (intermediate and propellar) are balanced as one.

2) I unbolted the middle flange (behind the bearing, ahead of the double cardon joint) first. 4 bolts, pretty easy. i think 14 mm socket.

3) Unbolt the flange connecting to the tranny

4) There are two bolts that attach the carrier bearing to the frame. Remove these, and the intermediate shaft will drop. I had to use a chisel to separate the flanges. One or two taps is all it takes.

5) When you pull this off, you will see the flange is held on by a staked nut. remove this nut.

6) Before removing the flange, mark the location of the flange to the intermediate shaft. This way the flange will go back on the shaft exactly how it came off and then that flange will line up correctly with the flange of the propellar shaft. The way I did this is where that nut is staked, there is a key slot. I marked the flange to this key slot.

7) Pull the flange, the bearing should come off too. there are some washers and spacers as well, remember the order that these came off in.

8) Put new bearing on, and tighten nut to specs (134 ft-lb to seat bearing, back off one turn, and then 60 ft-lb to hold) Don't forget to stake the nut in that key hoe again. I re-used the nut.

9) Put driveshaft back on vehicle. I got scared at first because I bolted the flange to the tranny first, but my holes to my propellar shaft didn't quite line up! It scared me at first, but put it in neutral and got er there.

Here is some photos that i found that i referenced. The writeup was good, but for me I like my stuff clear. You can see that this person needed (or may not have) a flange puller to get his off. Like I said, mine just pulled off.

http://128.83.80.200/taco/cb.html

Definitely do it yourself job. If you have the new parts and everything ready, I would say it took me about an hour and a half, with beer breaks.

Good luck!

Jcam

Hey thanks for the idea about the U-joint!!!! I'll check that out. Thank you for the walk through on how to get it done! Did the chirp/squeak end for you?

KrashDH

Yup it did she puurrs now

JCBM123

I am also curious about the 1 piece driveshaft. Any advantage to it. I am asking because the mechanics I took my 2001 4runner to for a pinion bearing replacement decide to convert the driveshaft without informing me prior. I hope this is not a bad move overall. i will have a chat with the owner about this extra $600 move come monday.

98runner210

I thought the 4Runners had a one piece to begin with?