Oil Sludge Monster Attacks!! - Page 2

KZN185W · 02-22-2009, 01:48 AM

i would recommend flushing the engine oil every 15k miles with a cheapo oil. that way sludge and dirty oil that's left and has accumulated after changing/draining oil every 5k miles, are removed as well.

This ad is not displayed to registered members.
Register your free account today and become a member on Yotatech!

TNRabbit · 02-22-2009, 02:06 AM

Run synthetic oil and you won't have this problem any more...

Matt16 · 02-22-2009, 03:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TNRabbit

Run synthetic oil and you won't have this problem any more...

He was running Mobile 1 synthetic since new. Maybe though, it was the same Mobile the whole time.

I think that's a danger of extended drain periods with synthetics- I think a lot of people are overconfident an push it way to far.

Mic09dcsm · 02-22-2009, 03:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OutlawMike

I'm concerned about running a solvent in the engine, even at no load. If all of that stuff starts to go back to a more liquid state at once, I think it would blow the motor.

More research to do.

Thanks,

Mike

What if you cleaned what you would out by hand, maybe a putty knife and paper towels?

**DeathCougar** · 02-22-2009, 03:37 AM

The stuff you can see is NOT the problem. That is not affecting anything. The problem lies with what you cannot see. What clogging in the oil passages, journals, etc. This engine is a cancer patient waiting to die. A patient with clogged arteries just waiting for that fatal heart attack.

The previous owner lied to you. He did NOT change the oil at 3k intervals, and IF he used synthetic, it was never/rarely changed.

The only real way to fix this, is to rebuild/replace the engine. Like I said, its not what you CAN see that will cause the problem. You can scrape away all the gunk you can see for hours on end, and it will not stop this engines doom.

7m4x4dude · 02-22-2009, 03:50 AM

i've heard this is a common problem on 3.4's and scoope out all; you can, then use brake/carb clean to help flush the rest off it from the head surface. if you notice chunks gather them first.

i wouldn't run the engine while cleaning it.

shances are you have some issues, but taking out what you can see always helps. and rinsing out what you can helps too. i would say try a few gallons of diesel, or 2-stroke premix like 30-50:1 to help clear sludge.

ARB1977 · 02-22-2009, 07:24 AM

Ouch...I would try some auto rx. Once on the rinse cycle i would do 500 mile filter changes till the rinse cycle is over, then repeat. I highly dought Mobil One would cause that even with 5K change intervals...even the cheapest oil wouldnt cause that. Neglect is my guess. Its also possible the PCV has failed or was never changed.

**waskillywabbit** · 02-22-2009, 07:38 AM

Two identical threads...now merged into the appropriate forum section.

OutlawMike · 02-22-2009, 09:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by waskillywabbit

Two identical threads...now merged into the appropriate forum section.

Sorry about the two threads, I wanted to scare up as much input as fast as I could. I won't do that again.

Just to clear a couple of things up, the PO said that he changed the oil, but that does not appear correct. There were receipts for a timing belt change at 65k miles. My buddy thought that if the guy did the T-belt right at the interval, he cared about the motor, right?

My buddy started putting Mobil 1 in it after he bought it two years ago, at 135k miles. So, I doubt Mobil 1 caused this, it looks to me like the oil was not changed for a very long time. He changes the oil every 5k miles, so it has seen 4x Mobil 1 changes.

My vote is to yank the heads, get to a shop to be cleaned up and gone through. Get the oil pan off and check out the bottom end and the oil screen. If the passage ways all look clogged, it looks like a complete tear down/rebuild or a long block.

I am not familiar with the 3 gen Runners, I own a first gen. Can you get the oil pan off of them with the engine in the bay?

Thanks for the input,

Mike

okie81 · 02-22-2009, 09:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OutlawMike

All we could do was laugh, crying was not much of an option.

How to get rid of it? The motor runs fine, but with this stuff in there it is a heartbeat away from a blocked passage. The thing has cardiovascular disease.

A few good ideas here:

http://www.yotatech.com/f2/how-clean-out-sludge-134123/

98runner210 · 02-22-2009, 11:08 AM

Here is what mine looks like with oil changes at 3000K with Castrol GTX. This was at 80K miles. I bought it with 59K and unknown previous history.

**DeathCougar** · 02-22-2009, 11:21 AM

Thats how it SHOULD look. Nice golden hue.

He says he changed the oil. Yea, ONCE maybe. This engine can be saved, but it needs to be yanked out and cleaned/rebuilt

rock slayer · 02-22-2009, 11:23 AM

anyone seen who framed roger rabbit??? there might be a hint in that movie on how to get rid of all that

SPL15 · 02-22-2009, 12:38 PM

Sludge like that is usually caused by either cheap oil and no changes or Plugged PCV system.

The 4Runner I just bought with 236K miles had a completely plugged PCV system and has similar sludge like this... Bought it for $1400 with rear locker so even with an engine swap I'd still be cheaper than a better condition runner. It has a blown out suspension which I was going to throw away anyways with new coils & shocks.

Best way to get rid of sludge like this is GRADUALLY. The quick flush products can remove too much crud at once plugging oil passages as others have said.

I use Mobil 1 High mileage to gradually remove this kind of crud and also run about ahalf quart or so of Mobil 1 ATF. This combo will gradually remove the crud by dissolving it and not letting it chunk off and blocking passages. BUT an engine this sludged will probably never be completely clean with this method.

I usually notice in the past that after about 10K to 15K miles after several changes of oil with the Mobil 1 High mileage it the upper engine looks pretty clean. The Mobile 1 High mileage has more ZDP and Calcium than normal oils. Calcium is used as an engine detergent while the phosphorus is a good wear inhibitor. Synthetic oil has less light weight volatiles in it which makes the job of PCV system a bit better. Cheap oil has a lot of light weight volatiles which quickly atomize and they need to be sucked outta the crankcase by the PCV system or else they create SLUDGE.

Anyways, go slow when trying to remove this crud.

jdsdj98 · 02-22-2009, 01:10 PM

Keep us posted on how you proceed and update with pics of the results if possible. I recently bought a 3.4 at 96.5K and although I'm confident it doesn't look like this, I don't know much about its history. This is an intriguing thread.

BigBallsMcFalls · 02-22-2009, 02:36 PM

u need to disassemble teh engine and do a complete
steam blast of all oil passages and rebuild

that is the only way to be sure.

OutlawMike · 02-22-2009, 07:39 PM

Long day in the garage, made some progress, not sure where it will take us with the sludge beast, but progress none the less.

I want to acknowledge the opinions out there that this motor needs to be pulled, disassembled, tanked, etc, etc. In a perfect world and with unlimited funds, than a new or rebuilt motor would be in order.

We are trying something a little more on the conservative side money wise, but something that might end up with the motor failing. Time will tell.

This sludge is interesting stuff, like nothing I have ever dealt with in a motor. I would describe it as pervasive, yet wimpy. It is more like a thick grease than anything else. It does not have any gritty aspect to it, no structure, yet it was taking over the motor.

What we did today:

We shopvac'd both heads to suck out all of the large deposits. At first we were tentative on this method, but it went very well and very fast. With one guy using a small screwdriver to lift up the sludge and the other guy driving the vacuum, we were able to suck about 80% of the stuff out of the heads.

We removed both cams in each head and then vacuumed them out some more.

We then went to the diesel. We used a kitchen baster to wash out the heads with diesel fuel. There were not any "bits" there to wash down, but it got the diesel started on breaking down the sludge. We then scrubbed the inside of each head with soft nylon bristle brushes, adding more diesel to flush as we went. Where did the diesel and liquid sludge go? Into the pan down the drain holes. We put about 1/2 gallon of diesel through the heads to get it to a fairly clean state. Nothing like the picture above, that is beautiful. Pics later after I get a shower.

We alternated brushing and flushing to get to this point. Then we scrubbed up the cams and the bearing caps. Again with soft nylon brushes, no wire.

The PCV system was totally clogged, maybe a major reason why this happened. The valve covers cleaned up pretty good, but not the vent passageways behind the riveted on sheetmetal covers. We ended up putting them in a bucket with 5 gallons of diesel, crossing our fingers that they will clean up. If they do not, new valve covers are in order.

Then, we drained the crankcase. No chunks at all in the oil, just very black and very thick from all of the sludge we washed down there.

We then poured 1 1/2 gallons of diesel into the heads, down the drains to the pan. We are going to let that sit in the pan for a bit, then drain that out. If the diesel is black when it comes out, then it did it's job. If not, then it just sat there for a bit.

The next step we are going to take is to get the heads back together, timing belt, plenum, new valve covers if needed, etc. Then, we are going to pour 5 quarts of 5W30 and one quart of diesel into the crankcase. Start the motor and get it to temp. Then let it run for 20 minutes. shut it down, drain, and repeat until we see some cleaner oil coming out.

After that, we may go with a quart of ATF in the oil with a short oil change cycle, maybe every two weeks.

So, the right thing to do? Maybe, maybe not, opinions will vary. I would say it is a mildly aggressive path forward. The biggest risk is clogging the pickup screen or a high pressure port and losing a bearing. But, this motor was on deaths door, so drastic action is necessary. And if it needs a new bearing, it would have got them anyway if we had pulled it to rebuild.

Pics later.

Thoughts?

Mike

skjos · 02-22-2009, 07:59 PM

I've got my popcorn in hand and my eyes riveted to the computer screen, I can't wait to see how the tale of "The Sludge Moster Vs Shop Vac & Diesel" turns out!!!

mudhoney · 02-22-2009, 08:11 PM

wowser

904_runner · 02-22-2009, 08:16 PM

Well i certainly hope it works out for you both.

24Runna · 02-22-2009, 08:41 PM

sin jerry

ARB1977 · 02-22-2009, 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OutlawMike

Long day in the garage, made some progress, not sure where it will take us with the sludge beast, but progress none the less.

I want to acknowledge the opinions out there that this motor needs to be pulled, disassembled, tanked, etc, etc. In a perfect world and with unlimited funds, than a new or rebuilt motor would be in order.

We are trying something a little more on the conservative side money wise, but something that might end up with the motor failing. Time will tell.

This sludge is interesting stuff, like nothing I have ever dealt with in a motor. I would describe it as pervasive, yet wimpy. It is more like a thick grease than anything else. It does not have any gritty aspect to it, no structure, yet it was taking over the motor.

What we did today:

We shopvac'd both heads to suck out all of the large deposits. At first we were tentative on this method, but it went very well and very fast. With one guy using a small screwdriver to lift up the sludge and the other guy driving the vacuum, we were able to suck about 80% of the stuff out of the heads.

We removed both cams in each head and then vacuumed them out some more.

We then went to the diesel. We used a kitchen baster to wash out the heads with diesel fuel. There were not any "bits" there to wash down, but it got the diesel started on breaking down the sludge. We then scrubbed the inside of each head with soft nylon bristle brushes, adding more diesel to flush as we went. Where did the diesel and liquid sludge go? Into the pan down the drain holes. We put about 1/2 gallon of diesel through the heads to get it to a fairly clean state. Nothing like the picture above, that is beautiful. Pics later after I get a shower.

We alternated brushing and flushing to get to this point. Then we scrubbed up the cams and the bearing caps. Again with soft nylon brushes, no wire.

The PCV system was totally clogged, maybe a major reason why this happened. The valve covers cleaned up pretty good, but not the vent passageways behind the riveted on sheetmetal covers. We ended up putting them in a bucket with 5 gallons of diesel, crossing our fingers that they will clean up. If they do not, new valve covers are in order.

Then, we drained the crankcase. No chunks at all in the oil, just very black and very thick from all of the sludge we washed down there.

We then poured 1 1/2 gallons of diesel into the heads, down the drains to the pan. We are going to let that sit in the pan for a bit, then drain that out. If the diesel is black when it comes out, then it did it's job. If not, then it just sat there for a bit.

The next step we are going to take is to get the heads back together, timing belt, plenum, new valve covers if needed, etc. Then, we are going to pour 5 quarts of 5W30 and one quart of diesel into the crankcase. Start the motor and get it to temp. Then let it run for 20 minutes. shut it down, drain, and repeat until we see some cleaner oil coming out.

After that, we may go with a quart of ATF in the oil with a short oil change cycle, maybe every two weeks.

So, the right thing to do? Maybe, maybe not, opinions will vary. I would say it is a mildly aggressive path forward. The biggest risk is clogging the pickup screen or a high pressure port and losing a bearing. But, this motor was on deaths door, so drastic action is necessary. And if it needs a new bearing, it would have got them anyway if we had pulled it to rebuild.

Pics later.

Thoughts?

Mike

Sounds like a old school method. I remember back when my grandfather used to run kerosene before every oil change in his vechcials. I add 3 oz of autorx to each oil change...much safer than kerosene.

OutlawMike · 02-22-2009, 09:23 PM

Some pics of what we did today.

First, vacuuming out the sludge. Notice the nice duct tape job to reduce the larger shop vac hose to the smaller inlet reducer nozzle. A nice piece of jethro engineering there.

[IMG]

[/IMG]

Next, after removal of the cams and more vacuuming of the head. The sludge that is left is mostly a surface "smear".

[IMG]

[/IMG]

And two shots of what we ended up with. This is after using #2 Diesel and soft nylon brushes. Not as clean as you would like, but all of the grease like sludge is gone, down to the hardened, baked on oil residue. We did a bit more work past this point, getting them a little cleaner.

[IMG]

[/IMG]

[IMG]

[/IMG]

We will fire it back up next weekend. Then we will see if the experiment worked.

Mike

muddpigg · 02-22-2009, 09:27 PM

I'd be really cautious, a clogged oil passage will do far more damage than the sludge you removed ever would.

98runner210 · 02-22-2009, 09:27 PM

I was thinking... do you think that maybe the prev owner knew he neglected it so started to use syn oil. Maybe the syn oil since it tends to flow better maybe just flowede around the sludge without doing anything to it?

02-22-2009, 03:50 AM	#31 (permalink)
7m4x4dude Registered User Join Date: Jan 2009 Posts: 108	i've heard this is a common problem on 3.4's and scoope out all; you can, then use brake/carb clean to help flush the rest off it from the head surface. if you notice chunks gather them first. i wouldn't run the engine while cleaning it. shances are you have some issues, but taking out what you can see always helps. and rinsing out what you can helps too. i would say try a few gallons of diesel, or 2-stroke premix like 30-50:1 to help clear sludge. __________________ -------build thread---- http://www.yotatech.com/f116/so-im-n.../#post51028197

02-22-2009, 07:24 AM	#32 (permalink)
ARB1977 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: North Texas Posts: 301	Ouch...I would try some auto rx. Once on the rinse cycle i would do 500 mile filter changes till the rinse cycle is over, then repeat. I highly dought Mobil One would cause that even with 5K change intervals...even the cheapest oil wouldnt cause that. Neglect is my guess. Its also possible the PCV has failed or was never changed. __________________ 2002 TACOMA 3.4L 102K AND COUNTING

02-22-2009, 07:38 AM	#33 (permalink)
waskillywabbit Super Moderator-Sponsoring Member Staff Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Tuscaloosa, AL Posts: 14,561	Two identical threads...now merged into the appropriate forum section. __________________ WabFab Off-Road, LLC MySpace Twitter Facebook 7th Annual South East 4Runner Jamboree, 2010 The toughest part of a Jeep is the chick driving it. WabFab Off-Road 4th Anniversary Sale

02-22-2009, 11:08 AM	#36 (permalink)
98runner210 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: San Antonio, TX Posts: 781	Here is what mine looks like with oil changes at 3000K with Castrol GTX. This was at 80K miles. I bought it with 59K and unknown previous history. __________________ '98 4Runner Limited White w/ silver flares

02-22-2009, 01:10 PM	#40 (permalink)
jdsdj98 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Denver, CO Posts: 113	Keep us posted on how you proceed and update with pics of the results if possible. I recently bought a 3.4 at 96.5K and although I'm confident it doesn't look like this, I don't know much about its history. This is an intriguing thread. __________________ Jamie 2001 Tacoma. Ext. cab. SR5 TRD. 3.4/Auto. 4WD. 101k. Camper shell. 1995.5 Tacoma. Ext. cab. 2.7/5 spd. 4WD. Drove to a head gasket failure at 255k in Dec. '08. Sold it, was repaired and put back on the road.

02-22-2009, 11:23 AM	#38 (permalink)
rock slayer Registered User Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: clark county WA. Posts: 215	anyone seen who framed roger rabbit??? there might be a hint in that movie on how to get rid of all that

02-22-2009, 12:38 PM	#39 (permalink)
SPL15 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: West Michigan Posts: 16	Sludge like that is usually caused by either cheap oil and no changes or Plugged PCV system. The 4Runner I just bought with 236K miles had a completely plugged PCV system and has similar sludge like this... Bought it for $1400 with rear locker so even with an engine swap I'd still be cheaper than a better condition runner. It has a blown out suspension which I was going to throw away anyways with new coils & shocks. Best way to get rid of sludge like this is GRADUALLY. The quick flush products can remove too much crud at once plugging oil passages as others have said. I use Mobil 1 High mileage to gradually remove this kind of crud and also run about ahalf quart or so of Mobil 1 ATF. This combo will gradually remove the crud by dissolving it and not letting it chunk off and blocking passages. BUT an engine this sludged will probably never be completely clean with this method. I usually notice in the past that after about 10K to 15K miles after several changes of oil with the Mobil 1 High mileage it the upper engine looks pretty clean. The Mobile 1 High mileage has more ZDP and Calcium than normal oils. Calcium is used as an engine detergent while the phosphorus is a good wear inhibitor. Synthetic oil has less light weight volatiles in it which makes the job of PCV system a bit better. Cheap oil has a lot of light weight volatiles which quickly atomize and they need to be sucked outta the crankcase by the PCV system or else they create SLUDGE. Anyways, go slow when trying to remove this crud.

02-22-2009, 02:36 PM	#41 (permalink)
BigBallsMcFalls Registered User Join Date: Apr 2008 Posts: 548	u need to disassemble teh engine and do a complete steam blast of all oil passages and rebuild that is the only way to be sure.

02-22-2009, 07:39 PM	#42 (permalink)
OutlawMike Registered User Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Santa Rosa, CA Posts: 397	Long day in the garage, made some progress, not sure where it will take us with the sludge beast, but progress none the less. I want to acknowledge the opinions out there that this motor needs to be pulled, disassembled, tanked, etc, etc. In a perfect world and with unlimited funds, than a new or rebuilt motor would be in order. We are trying something a little more on the conservative side money wise, but something that might end up with the motor failing. Time will tell. This sludge is interesting stuff, like nothing I have ever dealt with in a motor. I would describe it as pervasive, yet wimpy. It is more like a thick grease than anything else. It does not have any gritty aspect to it, no structure, yet it was taking over the motor. What we did today: We shopvac'd both heads to suck out all of the large deposits. At first we were tentative on this method, but it went very well and very fast. With one guy using a small screwdriver to lift up the sludge and the other guy driving the vacuum, we were able to suck about 80% of the stuff out of the heads. We removed both cams in each head and then vacuumed them out some more. We then went to the diesel. We used a kitchen baster to wash out the heads with diesel fuel. There were not any "bits" there to wash down, but it got the diesel started on breaking down the sludge. We then scrubbed the inside of each head with soft nylon bristle brushes, adding more diesel to flush as we went. Where did the diesel and liquid sludge go? Into the pan down the drain holes. We put about 1/2 gallon of diesel through the heads to get it to a fairly clean state. Nothing like the picture above, that is beautiful. Pics later after I get a shower. We alternated brushing and flushing to get to this point. Then we scrubbed up the cams and the bearing caps. Again with soft nylon brushes, no wire. The PCV system was totally clogged, maybe a major reason why this happened. The valve covers cleaned up pretty good, but not the vent passageways behind the riveted on sheetmetal covers. We ended up putting them in a bucket with 5 gallons of diesel, crossing our fingers that they will clean up. If they do not, new valve covers are in order. Then, we drained the crankcase. No chunks at all in the oil, just very black and very thick from all of the sludge we washed down there. We then poured 1 1/2 gallons of diesel into the heads, down the drains to the pan. We are going to let that sit in the pan for a bit, then drain that out. If the diesel is black when it comes out, then it did it's job. If not, then it just sat there for a bit. The next step we are going to take is to get the heads back together, timing belt, plenum, new valve covers if needed, etc. Then, we are going to pour 5 quarts of 5W30 and one quart of diesel into the crankcase. Start the motor and get it to temp. Then let it run for 20 minutes. shut it down, drain, and repeat until we see some cleaner oil coming out. After that, we may go with a quart of ATF in the oil with a short oil change cycle, maybe every two weeks. So, the right thing to do? Maybe, maybe not, opinions will vary. I would say it is a mildly aggressive path forward. The biggest risk is clogging the pickup screen or a high pressure port and losing a bearing. But, this motor was on deaths door, so drastic action is necessary. And if it needs a new bearing, it would have got them anyway if we had pulled it to rebuild. Pics later. Thoughts? Mike

02-22-2009, 07:59 PM	#43 (permalink)
skjos Registered User Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Orting, WA Posts: 305	I've got my popcorn in hand and my eyes riveted to the computer screen, I can't wait to see how the tale of "The Sludge Moster Vs Shop Vac & Diesel" turns out!!! __________________ 2002 4runner SR5 4x4 1994 Ext Cab Truck 4x4 (22R-E)

02-22-2009, 08:11 PM	#44 (permalink)
mudhoney Registered User Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: puget sound ,wa Posts: 100	wowser __________________ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lPvv8pU68K8 91 sr5 4runner,rebuilt 3.0,4x4,all power options,sunroof,a340h,maxxis bighorns@ 31",lc coils,etc etc and more to do of course.

02-22-2009, 08:16 PM	#45 (permalink)
904_runner Registered User Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Chico, California Posts: 3,795	Well i certainly hope it works out for you both. __________________ Mike 1990 4runner: 3.4 swapped, 5-speed, sas'd, Rear leaf swap, Locked, 5.29's, 39.5" iroks on Beadlocks, Armor'd Longfields, Duals coming soon: My build thread http://www.yotatech.com/f152/904_run...thread-158746/ http://www.treadlightly.org/ http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ery/index.html

02-22-2009, 08:41 PM	#46 (permalink)
24Runna Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Wauconda, IL/Edwardsville, IL Posts: 857	sin jerry __________________ '95 4Runner SR5 130k 3.0 - Auto - 4WD - 4.88 Gears - Aisin Hubs - Downey Headers - Performance Cams - 2.25" CherryBomb Turbo - GY Wrangler RT/S 31x10.5x15 Sony CDX-310 - Polk dB401 - Sirius Hardwired - iPod Touch 32GB Finished putting engine in Apr-26-09, 108k Last edited by 24Runna; 02-22-2009 at 08:43 PM.

02-22-2009, 09:23 PM	#48 (permalink)
OutlawMike Registered User Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Santa Rosa, CA Posts: 397	Some pics of what we did today. First, vacuuming out the sludge. Notice the nice duct tape job to reduce the larger shop vac hose to the smaller inlet reducer nozzle. A nice piece of jethro engineering there. [IMG][/IMG] Next, after removal of the cams and more vacuuming of the head. The sludge that is left is mostly a surface "smear". [IMG][/IMG] And two shots of what we ended up with. This is after using #2 Diesel and soft nylon brushes. Not as clean as you would like, but all of the grease like sludge is gone, down to the hardened, baked on oil residue. We did a bit more work past this point, getting them a little cleaner. [IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG] We will fire it back up next weekend. Then we will see if the experiment worked. Mike

02-22-2009, 09:27 PM	#49 (permalink)
muddpigg Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: injured and stateside :( Posts: 1,395	I'd be really cautious, a clogged oil passage will do far more damage than the sludge you removed ever would. __________________ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rqtr_RvR3sY Balljoints for sale. Open to trades and offers. http://www.yotatech.com/f11/ball-joi.../#post51278784

02-22-2009, 09:27 PM	#50 (permalink)
98runner210 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: San Antonio, TX Posts: 781	I was thinking... do you think that maybe the prev owner knew he neglected it so started to use syn oil. Maybe the syn oil since it tends to flow better maybe just flowede around the sludge without doing anything to it? __________________ '98 4Runner Limited White w/ silver flares

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Oil sludge in intake normal?	EToy	95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners	11	03-09-2008 04:08 AM
great article about oil sludge	silversup	86-95 Trucks & 4Runners	3	07-22-2007 04:33 PM
nasty sludge buildup in oil cooler coolant lines ????	knaffie	Maintenance & Repair Archives	2	05-08-2005 08:31 PM
Dark grey sludge under the oil cap...	Ontario	95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners	8	03-05-2005 08:42 AM