Oil Filter Help
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Oil Filter Help
I have a 2000 SR5 3.4 4WD that I bought recently and the first oil change I had done at the shop because I was getting other stuff done. I am attempting to do it myself this time and the oil filter is in a PITA spot. I think I might need to take the skid plate off, but one of the bolts is not coming out, seems to be stripped. I can get my hand on the filter through a small hole underneath, but it's on pretty tight. Was thinking of buying a filter wrench, but only if that will help and will fit in the tiny space.
Any suggestions on how to change it? I did a search expecting this to be a common topic but did not find much.
Thanks!
Any suggestions on how to change it? I did a search expecting this to be a common topic but did not find much.
Thanks!
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Yeah the 3.4 oil filter change is a PITA. There are lots of writeups on YT. Do a search.
You can get to the filter by removing the rubber skirt/curtain in the fenderwell and reaching your hand through the fenderwell. Sears sells a filter wrench that works well with about 16 inches of extensions on your ratchet: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_02820523000P
I've done about 10 oil changes on this engine and I've got it down to where I don't need to remove the skid plate and never have any spillage. Takes me about 20 minutes...but the process took some practice to make perfect.
You can get to the filter by removing the rubber skirt/curtain in the fenderwell and reaching your hand through the fenderwell. Sears sells a filter wrench that works well with about 16 inches of extensions on your ratchet: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_02820523000P
I've done about 10 oil changes on this engine and I've got it down to where I don't need to remove the skid plate and never have any spillage. Takes me about 20 minutes...but the process took some practice to make perfect.
Last edited by Mtn Mike; 09-27-2009 at 07:10 PM.
#3
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Taking the skid plate off just makes it easier to drain. Go through the fenderwell for the filter like Mtn Mike said. I have a normal filter wrench that just has a small handle and there is 1 angle I found that I can get a little turn on it. It just takes some trial and error. It's a bit of a PITA the 1st time, but easy after after that. Just don't forget how you did it.
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They have filter wrenches that are actually a cap sort of thing that goes over the end and an extension from a ratchet fits in the middle. Just have a can of brake cleaner handy to clean the oil that will drip in the skid plate.
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Thanks for the feedback. I did not realize that rubber skirt came out so easily. I could see it through the fenderwell and saw the black rubber skirt, but did not realize it was rubber that came off real easy and real flexible. It's an open shot from there.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#6
Assuming that the skirt on a 2000 is the same as my 2001- no need to remove it. You can reach thru. I turn the wheels to the far left and use a cheap 36" extensions from Harbor Freight on the end cap filter tool. Yeah - it helps to remove the skid plate but it can be done without out removal. As far as the stripped bolt goes - which one is it? There are two parts to the skid plate. Two of the bolts hold the parts together so if the bad one is one of those - you can remove the whole skid plate and then fix it.
Last edited by GhostriderTx; 09-28-2009 at 04:51 PM.
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Assuming that the skirt on a 2000 is the same as my 2001- no need to remove it. You can reach thru. I turn the wheels to the far left and use a cheap 36" extensions from Harbor Freight on the end cap filter tool. Yeah - it helps to remove the skid plate but it can be done without out removal. As far as the stripped bolt goes - which one is it? There are two parts to the skid plate. Two of the bolts hold the parts together so if the bad one is one of those - you can remove the whole skid plate and then fix it.
As for the stripped skid plate bolt, it's in the middle. It looks like it is one that holds the two plates together. When I was under there I was thinking it appeared to be two parts, but was not sure since it got dark and I gave up for the night. There are 3 in the front closest to the bumper, two in the middle that appear to hold them together where one is stripped, then I think 2 more furthest from the front.
Thanks for the reply.
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Yeah, I agree now that I know how to get to it. The one in my old 94 prelude was on the back of the engine about an arms length high. I had no choice but to get all the way under and reach all the way up. And if the filter was tight or engine too hot... watch out! Not one of the cars I liked doing the oil on.
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I still think that the 3.4L Toyota is harder to get to. I just use small ramps for the 4 Cyl Honda/Acura cars and crawl underneath and I have plenty of clearance. I just wrap a large rag around my arm to keep it from burning.
The worst oil change I have done is the 3.0L V6 Camry 3VZ-FE. It is right underneath the front exhaust manifold. I burned myself everytime and no matter what I did I couldn't keep the oil off the exhaust manifold to keep it from smelling.
Last edited by stir_fry_boy; 10-01-2009 at 07:33 AM.
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Yeah, all of mine were/is 4-bangers (LS, ITR, EJ, AP1, etc). Always sucked trying not to touch the exhaust, but always ended up burning myself. They're not that hard to do, but more time consuming than my Tacoma. Especially having to jack it up, Jack stands, etc. Easiest was the S2000. Lift up the hood, and there it was with plenty of space to work with.
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Yeah, all of mine were/is 4-bangers (LS, ITR, EJ, AP1, etc). Always sucked trying not to touch the exhaust, but always ended up burning myself. They're not that hard to do, but more time consuming than my Tacoma. Especially having to jack it up, Jack stands, etc. Easiest was the S2000. Lift up the hood, and there it was with plenty of space to work with.
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