2wd1stgen

I have a 92 22re pickup and an wondering about obdI scanning tools.
1 If my check engine light is not on, does this mean that I have no codes stored?
2 Are there any obd1 scan tools that interface with a PC or is that just a obdII thing?
3 Anyone ever used a obdI scan tool to get codes off a 92 to 95 pickup or runner?

mike_d

i think roger brown has some info on pulling codes from the 22re. check out his website: www.4crawler.com

nightsurfride

I remember having trouble with the snap on scanner because it did not have the right adapter for the obd1 toyotas. What I ended up doing was retrieving the codes manually by puting the computer in doagnostic mode. There is a small plastic cover in the engine bay that says diagnostic on it. If you flip the cover up, you can see the connector pins. With a paper clip, you connect two of the pin together to retrieve the codes via the flashing check engine light on the dash. I have to take my mother in law out to dinner right now, but will look up the exact procedure in Mitchell and post it when I gat back.

nightsurfride

Mitchell for some reason is not giving me the info you seek, but I know All-Data does and will look it up when I get to work on Tue. to get you which pins to connect and a list of trouble codes defined once you retrieve them, unless someone else has access to this info sooner and posts it for you.

motorhead99

i have an 89 that uses the same connector and software for your truck.. alls you need is a scan tool and the connector called toyota I. i use the Matco determinator and havent had a problem in the last 3 years of diagnoising my truck.

rock on,
matt

Formula51

I am interested in this free code retrieval process as well nightsurfride.

nightsurfride

I had trouble finding the info on RB's site, so tomarrow Tue. 26th at 5:30 pm PST. I will post the pins to connect and code definitions. Cool?

2wd1stgen

definitely cool

nightsurfride

Tried to post the directions at 5:30 pm. but got kicked off line when I tried to post them. Took me a while to write it all up so it was quite a bummer. I will try again now. Here goes noth'n.

nightsurfride

Here is how All-Data says to retrieve the codes:
1. Engine at normal operating temp. and key in the on position but do not start vehicle (for automatics have the transmission in neutral.
2. Connect terminals TE1 and E1 of the diagnostic connector with a small paper clip or similar conductive material. The diagnostic connector is located near the No. 2 relay block at the right front side of engine compartment. When you flip the cover open on the diagnostic connector you should see a diagram that shows which terminal is TE1 and E1, if not then the diagram will be on the emissions/engine identification under hood label on the underside of the hood.
3. Read the diagnostic code/codes as indicated by the number of flashes of the check engine warning light in the dash board. An example of this would be code 24 which would show as the check engine light flashing 2 times quickly, then a 1.5 sec. pause, then flashing 4 times quickly. If more than one code is present, then a 2.5 sec. pause will appear between codes. After all codes have been displayed, a 4.5 sec. pause will appear before displaying the sets of codes over again. If the check engine light flashes 2 times per sec. repetitively, then there are no trouble codes present.
4. Simply remove paper clip from terminals to end diagnostic mode.
5. After repairs, to clear codes, remove the EFI (15 Amp.) fuse for at least 30 seconds with the ignition switch off. Then put fuse back in place.

Here are trouble codes defined:
12= Rpm signal problem
13= Rpm signal problem (when eng. At 1,500 Rpm or more)
14= Ignition signal problem
21= Heated 02 sensor signal problem (open or short)
22= Engine coolant temperature sensor signal problem
24= Intake air temperature sensor signal problem
26= Air/fuel ratio too lean/rich as seen by 02 sensor
27= Sub heated 02 sensor signal problem
31= Volume Air Flow meter signal problem
41= Throttle position sensor problem
42= Vehicle speed sensor signal problem
43= Starter signal problem
52= Knock sensor signal problem
53= Knock control signal problem
71= Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system malfunction
81= Switch condition signal (if you are in R,D,2,or 1 in automatic transmission with check term. E1 and TE1 connected, which is why you do the test in neutral for automatics)
Hope this makes sense, if not, feel free to ask any questions. I also have lists of areas to check for each code to find the problem that set it. Good luck and happy hunting…

2wd1stgen

2wd1stgen

thanks for the method. I got one a 43 starter signal problem. What do I check first?

gwhayduke

Any chance you could correct the title of your first post to OBDI. Lots of good info here and it'd be nice to be able to find it through the search function later.

2wd1stgen

:pat: :pat:

I edited the original post but I do not think the tread name will change. Sorry

nightsurfride

Ok, you got a code 43- Starter sign. problem. The computer should see a signal from the starter while cranking the engine over, and for some reason it is not seeing this signal. These are the areas you will need to check.
1. Look for an open or short in the starter signal ciucuit.
2. Look for an open or short in the ignition switch or main relay circuit.
3. Look for corrosion, opens or shorts at the computer terminal, and of course there is always a small posability that there is a problem inside the computer itself.

Most likely you will find a wire in the starter signal circuit that is either touching ground, has excessive corrosion, or has broken off, but the relay is also a probable area. Would you like wiring diagrams of the starter circuit, and related? Let me know and I'll see if I can dig them up, but I may have trouble posting the pics of them, unless someone can tell me how to post bigger pictures than the small thumbs I only seem to be able to post.

98 Joes

Great post. Thanks.

comp-time

I got the 14 and 26 on the way home from the farm supply today? do these usually run together? I recently did plugs, rotor and cap. when she cools off I will check the new parts.