eddieleephd

you will need to run the tests on the igniter and make sure that you check and refresh all grounds there should be zero resistance from the block to the frame!!

clocklaw

I replaced the igniter with a donor one from another vehicle.....No Joy!

Gonna go back and start from the beginning with the basics tomorrow. I have thoroughly read this thread....I didn't check the VAF Meter so that will be the first test followed with a re-test of ground...then go back through the list and then have no idea.

I'm frustrated....but on the bright side, I found a set of manual hubs for $60.

eddieleephd

Although it is not often preferred the best way to diagnose these things is to run the tests on the individual components and then verify that all are reaching the ECM!!

there is an ecm pin and diagnosis in the FSM that I believe you have been linked to!

I had to do this when I replaced my engine there was a short I had to repair that went to the cam sensor at the sensor it tested perfect however at the ecm there was no reading do I found the short and repaired it and all was good !!

do not try to short cut the diagnosis as this will lead to more frustration than doing it right the first time!!!!

Good luck!!!

clocklaw

Anyway, the ground is good, re-tested everything but the air gap (no SST) and going to the ECM next.

clocklaw

Ok, I am not getting a signal from the ECM to the Igniter (black with blue stripe) but I tested the continuity of the wire and it tests good. Sounds like the ECM is not sending a signal...what is the next test????

CHUSBY

I have a no start and no spark on a 93 4runner.
i ran the tests at the top of this page.
the pickup coils pass. the wire tests pass. i have power to the coil and the igniter.
when i tap into the black/blue wire i dont get a spark on the tap test to negative. i do get a spark with the tap test to positive. what does this mean?
does it tell me the igniter is good?
please help im stuck. thank-you.

eddieleephd

note the ECM looks for fuel pressure and air intake before giving a spark as well it needs a signal from the cam and crank sensors so I would suggest testing for the cam and crank signals at the ECM as well as at the sensors
and be sure the ECM is getting the intake and pressure signals it is looking for

to you I will say to run the same checks and report the findings

SublimeBoa

I got the same results with my tap test. My coil and igniter turned out to be good, and the VAF turned out to be the cause.

Not saying that's your problem too, but when I got the same results, my coil and igniter both were fine.

chevota67

My Son bought a 94 p/u, Engine was torn down due to headgasket blown. head had been milled all new gaskets, timing belt ect. I oversaw putting engine back together, engine fired right up ran good. it got late went inside for evening.all was good. Next day tried to start so we could set timing and test drive. Engine cranks, fires then just cranks. NO start. checked spark none. double checked timing marks, rotated engine several times timing marks still line up on # compression, checked distributor for # 1, perfect. I have read threads here, very helpful. TOYS have been in family since 1985, never have had this kind of thing happen before. We Replaced coil, igniter,maf checked grounds and all connections ?????????? what gives? Any help would be very helpful Thanks.

eddieleephd

You now need to go and recheck that all marks on the crank and cams line up and that the crank bolt is tight to start.
Other than that check the fuses are good and all relays are working and be sure that you have fuel pressure.

best of luck

dbBoing

Hello.

I own a '94 Toyota 4Runner, and I am having serious issues trying to get it started. It cranks, but does not turn over. It does have spark, and it does have fuel pressure, but it still will not start.

I used a fuel pressure gauge, and it didn't show any readings, so I replaced the fuel pump. Still cranks, but won't start. Fuel filter is good. Ignitor and ignition coil was replaced two months ago. Battery was replaced about a week ago. Distibutor cap and rotor was replaced about four months ago. My brother-in-law and I checked all of these things with a Fluke and a test light, and nothing appears to be faulty.

However, my brother-in-law checked one of the plugs to an injector, and the Fluke showed to have voltage on both terminals. I don't remember what it was reading, but he suggests that I may have a short, because one of the terminals is supposed to be a negative. But both were acting like positives.

Any other suggestions? Or does this seem like a good diagnosis?

94Beater

Is it possible for a coil to not be hot enough? My truck will pull off and crank but will not crank with the starter. I did take the battery and charge it and it tried to crank but did not. I know the battery is good and hot. When i pulled it off it didnt run very good. Any help?

SublimeBoa

Never heard of that before...but who knows with this newer technology. Usually a coil consists of two coils inside the unit. A smaller one, and a larger one. Current is run through the smaller one, and picked up by the larger one via magnetic fluctuation, resulting in a larger output current sufficient to cross the gap in the plugs. About the only thing that can go wrong is, the wire creating one of the the coils breaks somehow, and renders you with no current at all on the output.

Trying to wrap my head around what you're saying. First you say it will pull off and crank, but then yo say it won't crank with the starter. That lost me. It either cranks, or it don't. If it don't crank, then look into the starter if you know the battery to be good.

You mentioned that when you pulled it off, it didn't run very good. Pulled what off? The starter, or the battery? Sorry, but I'm a little lost on your explanation.

94Beater

I pulled the truck off down the road and it will crank. The starter turns the engine over just fine but the truck wont start at all that way. Sorry about the explanation but it makes no sense to me either. The coil is firing but seems weak to me but used to looking at a v8 too

SublimeBoa

Have you downloaded the FSM from the link on the first page? I'm sure it will tell you how to diagnose the coil and igniter. I could probably look it up and explain it for you, but with work picking up, I'm not really left with much internet time these days, or time for browsing the FSM.
Check your cables to ensure they aren't corroded.

You say it will push start, but still runs crappy. I'd look into timing components as well. Make sure the timing belt didn't skip a lug, the rotor and cap are in good shape, plug wires aren't broken and fully secured to the plug, the cam sensors are in working order, etc.

94Beater

The coil checked out good with the multimeter but it was the problem. Changed out the coil and she is purring like a kitten!

SublimeBoa

Interesting!

Glad you are up and running too.

mdowning

Replaced defective distributor and pick up coils, coil and igniter check out fine. ECU checks out fine, still no spark from the coil. Checked all fuses for continuity and they are good. Any thoughts?

eddieleephd

I have not seen cleaned grounds. As well I have not seen checked for fuel pressure at the fuel rail. these trucks do not give spark if there is no/ not enough fuel pressure. if pressure is an issue it could be the fuel pressure regulator.

SublimeBoa

They also don't give spark if the VAF is defective. That's what it turned out to be on mine.