E30M3Pilot

greetins all!

i come from the BMW message boards because the M is not the daily driver anymore...picked up a 93 toyota (duh) pickup, 131K, 22RE, 5spd very nice and clean for 800.

i have a few questions...
the truck is very down on power...to the piont where climing a small hill or a long gradual hill on an freeway requires WOT and a downshift..and still its a dog...i have been surfin the board and see alot of info leaning twards the TPS. is this correct? what about a cat gettin cloged? do these motors loose compression even when baby'ed and tak'in good care of? vacume lines? EGR? im not looking for a 10sec truck and i know this thing isnt very fast in the first place but something is wrong.

thanks for the help all
Kevin
'91 BMW M3
'93 Toyota Pickup

86runner

Hey man welcome. Im sorry i cant really help with the power problem but i just noticed you having an e30 m3. My bro has got an e34 M5. Love German cars. What bmw forums did you come from?? sorry i cant help someone will though.

E30M3Pilot

ohh nice! tell your bro hes got a nice ride...and never to sell it...i post on s14.net, e30tech.com and bimmerforums.com...yea it keeps me in the poor house but it is waayyyyyyy to much fun!!!!!!! got the yota so i dont have to drive the M as much...keep costs down

thanks for your interest........my heart is with BMW

here is a link to some pictures

http://a2sportcompacts.com/kevinpics.htm

sooo about my slow truck?

LittleRedToyota

$800??? first off, unless there is something *majorly* wrong with it (like much more than needing a new motor, even), you got the deal of the century.

the lack of power could be many things. 22REs are prolly among the most reliable engines ever made (it's unlikely that anything major is wrong at 131k, but you never know). however, they are dogs...especially compared to an M3. having to downshift and floor it on hills is not unheard of.

also, you really have to rev them...which isn't a problem because they will run all day at 4500RPM. just to give you a gauge, i often run long steep hills in 3rd gear at close to or aobove 5000RPM and 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. if i shifted into 4th, i would have to floor it and may lose speed. you can foget about 5th on hills that are even remotely steep.

having said all that, i would check the compression just for general principles. the cylinders should be around 170PSI with a mininum of about 140PSI. they should all be within about 15PSI of each other.

i would also check the condition of the spark plugs while doing the compression test. (the haynes guides have a good guide to reading plugs on the back page.) replace the plugs if they are old.

might wanna replace the distributor cap and rotor and spark plug wires if that hasn't been done in a long time.

check the timing. it should be 5* BTDC with the same terminals jumpered (with a wire or paper clip) as you jump to pull the ECU codes (which you should do, also) as described here.

i would also adjust the valves (pretty easy on a 22RE...see this guide).

could be a clogged cat...you could take it off and look through it. (also, at night, drive it on the highway for awhile and then pull over and look at the cat...see if it is glowing. sometimes clogged cats will get so hot they glow.)

could be EGR related...could be the TPS (here is a guide to checking it)...could be the fuel filter.

could just be that it's a 22RE.

i would also check the timing chain at 131k. pull the valve cover and shine a flashlight down the front of the enigne and see if the timing chain guides are broken or missing. that is the weak spot on the 22RE...the driver's side tiing chain guide gets munched and then the t-chain starts eating a groove in the t-chain cover...eventually it eats through to a water passage and your coolant ends up in your oil pan...so you want to catch it early.

btw, 22REs are very easy (and fun) to work on, so i suggest doing everything yourself if you feel so inclined.

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Stan Marshall
1994 4x4 22RE/w56 SWB pickup

86runner

alright it might seem like im trying to change the subject but im not and im sorry. i just have one more off subject thing to say. my bro posts on bimmerforums.com his user name is bimmerm3e36 i believe. i know it doesnt make sence because he has an m5 but before he got it he had always wanted an m3. so i think he still uses that username.

youve got a good looking ride.

as for me ive got an 86 4runner.

back to the topic at hand...

E30M3Pilot

its all good man..were all motor heads here no matter what car or truck...



and yes i will be doing all the work myself...i actually did a headgasket on this truck a few years back...head wasnt damaged but i think the owner had to do something with removing the head and thats where i came in...very simple motor ...in fact thats how i got the truck for 800..pays to help people



this may sound silly talking about a 22re but does anybody know a 0-60 time? then i would have something to compair my truck with because i have never drivin anything like this...

sefus

i lose count on my 0-60 with my built motor, on a stock... holy cow.
anyway just do all the basics to start with, plugs, cap, rotor, wires, filters, see if its throwing any codes, clean your cat with a crowbar and 5-8 degrees advance is about as good as you'll get stock. also run some engine restore through it (found at any napa/shucks type auto store). let us know on teh compression test. im surprised that at that low of miles its really hurting.

86runner

i think its close to like 5 min if it even ever gets that fast.

E30M3Pilot

well did a bunch of work on it today....

compression
1=178psi 2=180psi 3=180psi 4=170psi

so its all good

did find the problem...lets just say if my timming was about 203945845 degrees to far retarded...it drives alot better now

and i got backed into today...bent up the lower passenger front fender...i was so pissed...i only had it for 2 days too...o well no other damage but a new fender

thanks again all

jimbo74

someone backed into you, i think your neck hurts also

nah, j/k i would never play an insurance company, karma would catch up with me, and i don't need that.....

LittleRedToyota

good excuse to cut away all that useless sheet metal and put bigger tires on it...hehe

glad to hear you found the problem.

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Stan Marshall
1994 4x4 22RE/w56 SWB pickup

Neo541

I have a feeling you'd be a lot more pissed if you were driving the M3 when they backed in to you!

__________________
Jeff
2003 Tacoma 4x4 V6 EXCAB

Wildcat_4R

The best mod I have done to get a little more power out of my 22RE was the addition of a header. Got the LC engineering header and felt a noticible difference. New cat and muffler rounded it all out.
I owned a 2000 Jetta before I got my '87 and it is like night and day as far as cost of modification. Rebuild the entire motor in my 87' with about everything I could get my hands on and it costs about as much as the set of wheels I was running before. I bet its the same w/ the bimmer. Couple hundred bucks into your truck would make a decent difference. It will never be a BMW though.

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'87 4-Runner w/ a 22re and some stuff...

toy283

Count yourself lucky if you only have to downshift one gear. There are hills around here I have to downshift three gears (to 2nd) in order to climb

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Dave
'84 XCab, blown 283 V8, SM420, dual cases, etc. -For Sale
'01 Subaru Outback

E30M3Pilot

WOW yeah i was...i was like "damnit...well at least its not the M"

got a few more questions for you smart yota dudes...

do these cars have a cold start system? mine seems to run at a high idle all the time and never lower even when its warm...is this normal?

i also have a ticking noise when the car is in neutral but when load is on the trans and clutch it goes away....pilot bearing? something outta place? anybody else have this problem?

again thanks for all the help

E30M3Pilot

bump^^^

LittleRedToyota

yes, they do...they call it the cold start injector.

no, it is not normal. should idle at about 750RPM when warm. the cold start injector is one possible cause of high idling, but there are more likely causes...

could be a few things:

1. idle set too high (there is a screw on the throttle body to ajust it...you are supposed to adjust it with the timing/ecu code terminals jumpered).

2. dash pot sticking--this is fairly common. the DP is a little plunger-like thingie on the throttle body which keeps the TB from slamming shut when you let off the gas (thereby making sure all fuel is completely burned...). the rubber boot often tears and then it gets gunked up and won't retract completely. this prevents the TB from closing as far as it should and so you get a high idle. this is easy to fix by just spraying silicon lubricant inside the torn boot. alternatively, some people remove the DP altogether.

3. low coolant or bad coolant temp sensor. the high idle works by sensing the coolant temperature...once it gets warm enough, it knocks the idle down to normal (actually closes a butterfly bypass in the TB). if the coolant is low, sometimes the coolant temp sensor doesn't get an accurate reading.

4. incorrectly adjusted or faulty TPS.

5. problems with throttle linkage.

prolly other possible causes as well, but those are the most likely i think.

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Stan Marshall
1994 4x4 22RE/w56 SWB pickup

E30M3Pilot

where should i jump the terminals if i wanna adjust it? also to save time where is the temp sensor located?

Yamaha+Toyota=Fun

I never jump the terminals when adjusting the idle, I dont really see a need for it. Just warm the truck up and see if you can adjust the idle down to around 800 rpms. If you cant get it to go any lower you probally have an issue with the stuff mentioned above.

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92 pickup... sold


90 integra- b18b turbo, intercooled, 10 lbs of boost, 240 whp... blown up

79 2wd yota pickup