ezalycasaid

Hi all, Im new to toyotas, but I just finished building a stretched Jeep. (dont shoot ive learned my lesson with jeeps and Im jumping ship) Ive installed ARBs into solid axles without 3rd members, the hard way without adjustment nuts, built a custom long arm suspension, roll cage, exocage, and all that blah blah blah. So I know some things about fabrication but I consider myself to still be a newb. So Im thinking Im going to build a 3rd gen 4runner with a 3.4V6 auto. Imma chop the top, and do the normal chop/bob/relocate the rear glass frame behind the rear door. I know with my driving style I can run 38s-40s on solid V6 toyota axles with longfields and rarely break shafts. Ill be running hydro assist up front, and doing the typical toy front SAS swap up front/putting the rear springs up front, and 63" chev leafs in the rear. Also just welding my spiders, Ill just swap out my third members when they break. Ill do more trimming and stay with as little of lift as possible, and alot of down travel. Gonna try to get the WB at about 105-110"s. Then doing the dual Tcase mod.

So heres my questions.
1. What steering box do I need/setup do I need for steering?
2. Does anyone know where I can find a writeup on the homemade dual tcase setup useing two stock tcases?
3. How much am I looking at spending (just in mods) useing all my own tools, and buying everything I can used off CL? I can find a 4runner on CL for about 2-3k
4. Can anyone please inform me on anything Im missing that I will need to buy/build during this build?


Thanks again for any and all info you guys can provide.

Also if I posted in the wrong forum I apologize, please let me know and move this thread.

gk5

I believe you will need and ifs steering box from the previous gen pick ups or 4 runners, 40s on toys? Wow I've heard of some people shearing of the knuckle steering arms with tires that big and I'm sure the hydro assist will add to the stress. I'd look more into that. As far as money goes it all depends hoe many bling parts you want to buy otherwise I'd figure around 3k for a good basic sas maybe homebrew doubler set up. Oh and good job on getting away from the jeep thing, it shouldn't hurt when u pee anymore lol.

ezalycasaid

Thanks for the info. Itll probobly be 38s untill Im positive I can drive without snapping, then swap to 40s. I drove my jeep wrangler tj (4.0L I6 with 4.88gears and 4.1tcase, 5k total weight on 37s and STOCK dana30 front axle shafts up front, with a locked diff for 2 years through some 9rated trails without snapping a single shaft) Wasnt hydro assist though. Its all about how u drive.

As far as bling goes I could care less about how it looks bling wise. Im done with that crap. I just spent 30k on a jeep that was as capable as a toyota with 3k into it. That jeep thing will still hurt when I pee for a long time after I just lost that much money into it..

gk5

You are correct driving type plays a big part .... I'm overly agressive and managed to shear off a complete ring gear in my Dana 44 ... I said screw it and went Dana 60 locked

ezalycasaid

Nice, that type of driving is really fun to watch. We all appreciate the entertainment. Ive been debating between toy axles and 14bolt rear and dana 60 front on this build. But people think the D60 fronts are made of gold these days, even in this economy. For now with my budget Ill have to stick to toy axles and 38s maximum. I actually enjoy the build more then wheeling these days. After this build Ill start putting together a toy truck with a 14bolt and D60 or Ford9 up front on 44s and wheeling that thing HARD. But I plan on that build being supplied entirely off of craigslist used parts and it taking about 3 years. I wanna build that one for less then 4k total, wich is doable but Ill have to be very patient and only build when the deal comes along. Im only an hour away from Moab, Utah so theres always good parts on CL.