skjos

I replaced my timing belt and water-pump a couple weeks ago, and have now found the time to create a write-up. Please review and let me know where I might be able to improve the process, especially when setting the timing using the crankshaft pulley bolt. (50 steps of fun)

2022 (update): My 4Runner now has 180,000 miles on it and I have updated the procedure with new tricks, and it now includes replacing the camshaft and crankshaft seals, as well as replacing the tensioner. (65 steps of fun)

http://www.skjos.net/toyota/timing/timing.html

mt_goat

Nice! Didn't read it all but what I did looks great, just like your trans flush write-up: http://home.centurytel.net/stevenjac...sh/tranny.html

Are there more besides these 2?

Must have scared you for a second when the 3/8" adapter snapped hehe.

skjos

Only two write-ups so far.

I about crapped my pants when the adapter snapped, but then was extremely relieved when I saw that it was the only thing broken.

rworegon

Very nicely done!

On step 13, it's sometime easier to remove the cover and reach in on the back side with a needle nose pliers to pop the connector off the cover.

How about adding a link (or the URL as a non link) to the FSMs over on TTORA?

rworegon

In step 19, use your crank holding tool to hold the cam in position while you pop the crank bolt back off.

I like the extra caution in step 20 of marking the used belt (white fingernail polish works well) for comparison although I've never had problem with Toyota's premarked belts. I only mark the old belt if it will be re-installed i.e a relatively new belt that needs to come off for another repair i.e cam/crank seal not replaced at TB change, but now leaking.

Step 21, Hydraulic tensioners do get weak over time and it may be good to consider changing it at the 180k TB change.

Maybe a note to look for oil leaking from the crank seal or oil coming out from under the timing cover backing plate indicating a leaking cam seal or valve cover?

Again, well done! Especially the very clear pictures.

skjos

Updates made, thanks for the great comments.

98SR54RUNNER

iTrader: (1)

From someone who is doing this maintenance soon: Thank you!

skjos

Minor updates made throughout the write-up.

aa1911

iTrader: (1)

dude, hi five!

Excellent write-up, you just set the bar quite a bit higher. Good pics and clear step by step.

hopefully this motivates others to do their own timing belts and such, too easy with something this clear especially.

One thing to add: "A NEW CRANKSHAFT PULLEY BOLT", hahahahahha! it's only $6, I'm sure if you torque the old one to the 218 ft/lbs it will be OK but why gamble??? ask me how I know...

the FSM even labels the bolt as a 'replace, non-re-usable' part, wise advice...

I would also remove the radiator as it's only 4 bolts but I'm also a clumsy gorrilla that likes to break things... plus gives you another 3" of working space.

mt_goat

OMG how do you know?

skjos

I can believe I missed the crankshaft pulley bolt in the parts list (I did install a new one).

Updates made.

Thanks

aa1911

iTrader: (1)

I'd post the link but just google 'crankshaft pulley bolt comes off!' and you shall all see! hahahaha


make sure to use a Toyota (Aisin) WP and Toyota T-stat, highly recommend Toyota belt also...

stock T-stat is 180', for SC'd trucks, TRD recommends the 160' T-stat; I could not get the (unmotivated) sales guy at toyota counter to even bother to try and find one for me so rockin' the stock 180 but if you are a perfectionist...

again, GREAT write-up!

spokane.yota.man

nice, just about to start this job myself so all the info helps. one thing to maybe make a note of; the part number for the crank pulley bolt you listed is for 09/1998 (model year 99+) on. there is a different part number for the 11/1995-09/1998 (96-98) models, 90105-16031. not sure what the difference is but thats the number i got for my 98 from the dealer and i confirmed it on toyotapartszone.com.

also want to share a couple of links. your toyota costs were over $400 for most of the parts listed (excluding bolt, hoses, coolant), ebay has an oe toyota kit for $349 w/ free shipping.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-TIMIN...item2a144a37e8

there is another kit from same seller that i believe has all the exact same parts but with out the toyota packaging for $303 w/ free shipping.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-3-4L-...item2c5bf69ef0

there are other cheaper kits available but i think the one above is by far the best value considering cost and quality.

aa1911

iTrader: (1)

beware of some of the 'OEM' kits, some are chinese knock-off look-a-likes.... toyotapartscheap.com did me well...

remember, you get what you pay for!

hopefully those kits are legit though, takes a $600 plus job down to about half that with quality parts also. Most shops will put in cheap aftermarket junk instead of the real thing

rworegon

The kits in post 13 are absolutely legit with the highest quality parts for the 5vz-fe. Personally used and recommended without any connection to the seller.

skjos

Is everything else except the crankshaft pulley bolt the same for earlier years of the 5VZ-FE?

spokane.yota.man

i don't know about the hoses or the timing cover gasket, all the rest appears to be the same. here is a picture of the bolt for my 98. anyone know the difference or have a picture of the 99+?

TheDurk

Well, just from looking, it appears that the bolt in the picture does not have the pre-applied thread-locker compound that came on the new bolt I put in my '99. It was sort of a bluish-green, if I remember correctly.

spokane.yota.man

There's a little on there, just on one side. It's green.

aa1911

iTrader: (1)

2000 5vzfe CS bolt... let me find my part number...