Hatchtec

Hi, Just came across this board a few days ago, and thought I would join in on the Good ol 4Runner Talk.

I have a 1994 4Runner SR5 with the overly underpowered 3.0 V6. Love it to death, but its been getting the best of me lately....

First off... CEL popped on, So I scanned the codes, pulled up a Lean Mixture code.... So I figured with the mileage I have (150,000) My Cat should be swapped out, So I picked one up, and welded it on... I also installed a new 02 sensor, as well as plugs, cap, rotor, air filter, fuel filter and new intake snorkel (dry rotted).

I Cleared the codes and it remained off for about 100 or so miles, and popped the code again. Reset it, and headed down to Houston, TX from Detroit, MI to go to school... About 400 miles into the trip the CEL popped back on showing a lean mixture code again. Well im boggled. Only thing I have not been able to check out correctly was my EGR valve, and Exhaust manifolds.
If I have a crack before my 02, it might create a vacuum and draw air across the 02 showing a lean mixture. This thing gets poor gas mileage (200 miles to a tank) Also, the EGR valve seems to be closed at idle, but im afraid it may have a leak in the diapragm part of the valve... Ive got quotes for like $250 bucks for the EGR, and I dont want to fix it if it isnt broken. BTW... It idles poorly as well.

Anyway.... Can anyone give me any input or maybe someone had a related problem??? I yanked off the upper intake manifold today to clean it all out, and check the resistance on the injectors etc. it will be back up and running tomorrow with new gaskets for the intake and a new PCV valve. I dont know how else to confirm the EGR valve being the problem...

Thanks In advanced...

Also Trying to locate the ground wire for my rear window... its sluggish and I think I may have a bad ground. Haynes manual isnt a good diagram.

~Jon

gwhayduke

Replace your O2 sensor first. Use the Toy sensor.

UKMyers

Can't help ya with the engine probs mines ran flawlessly for 3 years..(knocking on wood). For your backwindow more than likely the track is just gummed up. You need to pull the cover off the inside of the tailgate and lube her up. The first cover with the carpet just pops off and then there's a metal cover. After the metal is the inards but it's sealed with plastic. Use care when removing the plastic so you can reseal later. If you have the gate open and pop the latches in on the sides you can trick the window into opening with the gate down. Get you some good silicone spray and and juice everything up in there you'll be amazed at how much better it'll work. I've done mine several times because I'm always rolling down the window while wheeling and dragging all kinds of crud down there...mud dust ect.. Good luck

pvander1

just had the same problem with my 95. 135k on it.

rough idle. code 26, too lean, and then too rich.

changed plugs, O2 sensor, checked egr, cap, rotor, did no good.

short story long, bad valves, sticking. i over heated last year. head dead.

the fix, new heads, valves, cams....

while they were at it, timing belt, drive belts, all new hoses, front brakes, pinion seal, idler arm....well, you get it....

$3700. OUch, but, still cheaper than a new one.

Phil

Hatchtec

Cool, Thanks for the replies.... Looks like I will put it all back together and see what happens... If it can last me until February Ill be fine, I will just overhaul the whole truck. Id like to take the body off, sand blast the frame, fix some body rust, POR15 the whole underside of the truck and then do a Different motor at the same time.

Man, I just put all new Belts, Timing belt, Water pump etc in it too. I dont want to rip it apart again unless its to remove the 3.0 for good!. Just installed the Downey rear springs, and Daystar swar bar bushings up front with new hardware.

This thing treated me good for three years and its a tank out in the woods and in the snow!

Highland Runner

Sounds like the EGR may be stuck in the open position if the idle is bad. The valve looks like it would be easy to change. I tested the EGR on one of my old cars by using a hand held vacuum pump. They can be bought at auto part stores for less than $10. With the engine running you could pump the EGR at idle and the engine will stumble. A Haynes or Chilton book should have the exact testing procedure. BTW I just got 340 miles to a tank on the highway, so something is definetely wrong only getting 200.