ShrimpMan

Oh boy, this deal keeps getting better. So I purchased a '97 SR5 last Friday thinking it was a great deal. $4k w/ only 90k miles and in pretty good shape.

By entering the VIN into Toyotas website to see past service records, I find out the car had ~145k reported miles back in 2009. WHAT?! I think I have been the victim of odometer rollback, and the vehicle may actually have 190k.

It gets even better /sarc. The radiator is leaking near the top (No pink milkshake as far as I know though, it is sitting until I replace the radiator). I have a Koyo on order and will hopefully replace that this upcoming weekend.

Fast forward to today... I take a look under the oil cap (why I didnt do this when looking at it is beyond me), and see a thick light brown sludge-like grease. It almost seems like...grease that you would put on ball joints or something. It's not milky/runny at all, more like a huge sticky booger. I check the oil dipstick and it seems like semi-dirty oil - although I am not sure what else to look for. I may just have to drain the oil and see what I find.

Anyone know what this could be? My worst fear is of course the headgasket being bad, which I understand is somewhat common on the '96-'97 model years. Are there any other tests I can do by myself, without professional testing equipment, to determine if my headgasket is indeed bad? I need to save all the cash I can now...

James Woods

iTrader: (1)

Nah, thats pretty normal, its just condensation, if the oil on your dipstick looks fine, you are good.

cman1

iTrader: (1)

yep,x2,relax!! just do some normal maint,oil change,etc. clean the gunk out of the cap and enjoy.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Ready. Fire. Aim.

:wabbit2:

MudHippy

I beg to differ.

Make sure your PCV system is functioning correctly. It should be preventing that from happening...most of the time. Though to some extent, it may still occur. Meaning you might find that sometimes...but not all the time. If that's a regular thing, suspect a problem. Then make sure there isn't one(or fix it if there is).

And, in theory, it could be caused by a slowly leaking head gasket(or intake manifold gasket). So, after you replace the leaking radiator, make sure you're not losing any more coolant.

Why do I say these things? Let's just say...from experience.

ShrimpMan

I ordered a new OEM PCV valve, so will replace that as soon as I get it. Anything else to check/clean that could be causing this - the IACV perhaps?

ShrimpMan

So if I had coolant in my oil, it would be pretty damn noticeably eh? Any idea of what would it look like on the dipstick? I am going to drain the oil regardless but just curious what to keep an eye out for during regular checks.

ShrimpMan

Here is a pic of the truck in case you are all interested. I think I'll name him "Booger" due to the oil cap nastiness

Nervo19

Since you seem a little down I'll say it...you got a great deal even if it's 190k. One in that shape would sell for about 6k around here. Since PO lied about mileage I would expect that you need to do the timing belt as well as stuff mentioned above.

ShrimpMan

It had the timing belt done at 84k, which would put the belt's age around 105k if in fact the truck has 190k on it. I do not know if the water pump was ever done...

Honestly though I am wondering if doing this stuff if worth it given I dont know it's true mileage. I would almost rather purchase a used engine, rebuild it while it is out of the truck, then have it installed later on. That way I would have all new belts, water pump, head gasket, seals, etc.

Meanwhile just drive it as-is without messing with engine maintenance items. Just a thought.

Mtn Mike

iTrader: (1)

Yeah so far from what I've seen you post, I think you got a fair deal. Any 15 year old truck will require the normal maintenance. You can't expect to have a brand new truck for $4K. The odometer roll back is sketchy though. You might get more information on that by running a Carfax report. Either way, just keep doing what you're doing; go through the truck and address any issues you find.

Texas_Ace

That is not a good sign, that means there is or was water in the oil. To get that much buildup there was a lot of it at some point. The only way that much would build up without something strange happening is VERY extended oil changes which is just as bad.

The good news for you is that if the seller did not tell you about the correct mileage on the car then he committed a crime and you can make him buy the truck back. Or you could negate a lower price with him if you like the truck and want to keep it.

Or just keep it if it is running good. You did get a good deal mileage or not. Although that oil cap is not a good sign, these engines are darn near bullet proof and run forever.

99SR5

iTrader: (1)

its fine. a lot of vehicles have that. it could just be the gasket on the cap is old and letting some moisture in. not a huge deal. the dip stick would look like a frappaccino if the head gasket was leaking and from my understanding the head gasket leak is external on the early 3.4's not internal. make sure the vehicle doesnt over heat when it drives and for the heck of it get a pressure test done on the coolant system just to be sure.

also there was a tsb on the guage cluster on some 4Runners, the fuel gauge would bounce around and the light would flash. the mileage difference could just mean the tac was replaced and there should be a sticker somewhere on the vehicle. you could go to the dealer and have them run the vin on TIS to tell you if it was done or not.

J2F42C

Fill up the coolant to F in the resevoir. If you start losing some on a consistant basis, do a compression and a leak down test to test for a cracked head gasket.

If you see white smoke before then...........

dodge106

the mileage thing could be a mess up from the dmv i had a 2004 explorer that i got from my brother when he went to prison that sat for 7 years without being drove just the occasional start up and i know it only had 45000 miles on it and the dmv said it had 450000 miles on it quite a mistake i would say but it does happen

ARB1977

What does it look like in the valve train? If it's clean its condensation that hasn't burned off. If it's dirty get an oil analysis done. Black Stone Labs is one many have used.

ShrimpMan

Unfortunately I wish that was the case. I checked the VIN on toyota's website and the last reported mileage during dealership service was 145k in late 2009...

ShrimpMan

General Update: I did get the seller to refund me $500, so I got the truck at a net price of $3500. So even if it does have 195k, as long as there is not a HG issues, I think I made out OK.

ShrimpMan

I don't know yet. I am going to pull the valve covers to replace the gaskets within the next month or so - I will take a pic and post up here. I hope to god there isn't the dreaded Toyota sludge lurking in there.

On a related note, the guy before me changed the oil with full synthetic about 1200 miles before I bought it - proven by a receipt left in the glovebox. I think that is the first time this truck had synthetic in it. Would this cause the oil to get dirty quicker due to flushing out some old deposits? I ask because it seems a bit dark for just having been replaced with syn. I plan to drain the oil and change with regular 10-30 when I do the radiator swap. I should know more after that is done...

Texas_Ace

Yes, switching to synthetic oil, particularly mobile 1 will clean out the engine a LOT and the oil can get real dirty real quick.

This is good though as it will clean out the engine real good. I always switch to synthetic oil to clean out the engine. I will also sometimes add marvel mystery oil and seafoam to really clean it out.

That would not explain the oil cap stuff though.