Need some recommendations for lift
#1
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Need some recommendations for lift
I drive a 1995 2.7L 4Cyl Tacoma LX Ext cab(auto). I look to be riding about 70/30 Road/trail&mud. I'm currently running 235's and want to move to at least 33's. I think my truck has 4.10 gears, not really sure. I know i want both a body and suspension lift but need some guidance. I'd like a setup similar to ovvrdrive's truck.
Also, i was talking to a friend about adding a locker( aussie or lockright) to the rear of my truck. He said with our trucks it wasn't possible because our rear diff has a clutch package? Anyone know anything about this our another fix for it?
Thanks
Also, i was talking to a friend about adding a locker( aussie or lockright) to the rear of my truck. He said with our trucks it wasn't possible because our rear diff has a clutch package? Anyone know anything about this our another fix for it?
Thanks
#2
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to run 33s and clear them on a 95 tacoma you need 3inces of lift i did a rough country 3inch it was cheap i think like 250$ it was just 3inch aluminum coil spacers up front and blocks in the rear id personally do that over a body lift any day i ran 33/12.50-20 mudd grapplers only problem i had was the mudd grappers side lug sticks out alot and rubbed my a-arm by about a 1/4 inch, but that has nothing to do with lift. they make a locker for the tacoma i dont remember which one it is but i know they have one.
heres a pic of my tacoma....
heres a pic of my tacoma....
#3
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There are plenty of lockers available for that 8.25" diff. A lockrite/aussie will bang and pop a bit back there. A noslip might be quieter but more money.
I'd go with a milder 2" suspension lift with a 1" diff drop and a 1" body lift to keep the geometry better.
That 4cyl will be huffing to push 33"s around on 4.10s.
I'd go with a milder 2" suspension lift with a 1" diff drop and a 1" body lift to keep the geometry better.
That 4cyl will be huffing to push 33"s around on 4.10s.
#5
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Hey, where in AL are you from?
Most likely, your truck does have 4.10 gears. But it does not have a clutch pack in it, so you can put a locker in it.
You can go up to 3in body lift, and I think the only main thing it interfears with is the gas tank hose.
I would recomend that you go with a total of 4 inches of lift. You can get a bracket lift, which has a crossmember drop for the front and usually an ad-a-leaf and/or block for the back. OR the cheaper method would be 2in body, and 2in spacer for front and block in the back.
Most likely, your truck does have 4.10 gears. But it does not have a clutch pack in it, so you can put a locker in it.
You can go up to 3in body lift, and I think the only main thing it interfears with is the gas tank hose.
I would recomend that you go with a total of 4 inches of lift. You can get a bracket lift, which has a crossmember drop for the front and usually an ad-a-leaf and/or block for the back. OR the cheaper method would be 2in body, and 2in spacer for front and block in the back.
#7
I wouldn't how about 2" and you trim, thats what I did and I can run 33's easily
I would get some ride height adjustable bilsteins for the front, and some AAL and maybe a new shackle for the rear.
That shouldn't be too expensive and a lot better than a body lift, or blocks and spacers
I would suggest running 255/85/16's or 33x10.5x15 for your tires, they are a lot lighter than the 33x12.5's and you can probabley deal with the sluggishness from the engine on 4.10's, but if your going to regears I would go to 4.88's
I would get some ride height adjustable bilsteins for the front, and some AAL and maybe a new shackle for the rear.
That shouldn't be too expensive and a lot better than a body lift, or blocks and spacers
I would suggest running 255/85/16's or 33x10.5x15 for your tires, they are a lot lighter than the 33x12.5's and you can probabley deal with the sluggishness from the engine on 4.10's, but if your going to regears I would go to 4.88's
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