89macrunner

Well spring is coming and its time to fix a few things that are lingering.. heres the list.a few questions for each if you could help that would be great.


-Get new wheels mounted\balanced..simple enough

-Put in new window frames and fix window trim...i think i have to take off the roof?

-My running boards are deezees..orignaly black but the paint is chipping off everywhere and they look terrible....paint them or rip them off....i really want to rip them off but im 5'5" and i have to think about that.

-put on my $80 ebay pushbar which is looking like its not going to fit..and mount my PIAA 525's on it

-airbox mod and K&n drop in..also easy 75% DONE

-cat-back exhaust with flowmaster 40 series...def excited for this (meinike for the pipes?)

-fix my rear defroster..wiring i think? anyone have a diagram?

-my rear wiper doesnt park automatically..is this the motor or do i need to grind something?

-new wiper blades all around DONE
well any help,comments,suggestions, or ideas would be great.

airbox mod (removed spoiler and tube w/ K&N drop in took me about 20min... total cost.....$18. Im going to drill out the airbox but im going to buy a new one first..(just the bottom half)....Sounds pretty cool but will sound better with the drilling...theres a small increase in torque and hp.

dwh91102

get rid of the running boards you'll be happy

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Easy fix for the rear wiper:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ow.shtml#Wiper

I run longer than stock wiper blades up front for a little better coverage. Get them an inch or two longer and then trim the length to fit.

dgb9902

I spent Saturday chasing down gremlins in my tailgate. The previous owner told me the defroster had not worked for years. My rear glass would not come down with the key anymore, and was moving real slow. My original intent tearing into it was to clean and lube the moving parts, and start chasing down the wiring problems. What I found was the defroster wires had simply fallen off the terminals. You can find them by removing the access panel, closing the hatch, and getting into the back.

While there I found the key switch wires had rotted off, I removed the assembly containing the key switch, lengthened and re-soldered the wires and it works great. The service manual references locking the gate with a screwdriver, which will allow you to move the glass while the gate is down. It’s kind of scary, and I was afraid I would damage something, but I bumped the window switch a little at a time and did not try to move it out any farther than necessary. I had to do this to get to the bolts that hold the key/license plate light assembly.

Hope this helps.

Donnie

89macrunner

ill keep those tailgate tips in mind, thanks..more importantly

Does anyone know about the windowframes? Do i need to take the roof off for this because im really thinking i do but as always, i could be wrong.