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Old 06-29-2003, 05:48 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Need help with rear axle seals

I have a 98 4runner and I need to replace the rear axle seals,could some body please tell me what parts are needed to do the complete job.

I already have new shoes but what else?
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Old 06-29-2003, 06:00 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Re: Need help with rear axle seals

Quote:
Originally posted by David
I have a 98 4runner and I need to replace the rear axle seals,could some body please tell me what parts are needed to do the complete job.

I already have new shoes but what else?
you gonna replace the bearing and the outer seal too? or just the inner seal? I can give you all the part numbers you need to get the right parts, I've done the drivers side 3-4 times myself and the passenger side once myself, I replaced the whole axle assembly on the drivers side, that is, everything that pulls out once the four housing flange bolts are remove and the wheel cylinder disconnected.
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Old 06-29-2003, 06:18 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Parts needed for both inner and outer seal: {and the price I paid}
  • 90310-50001 $3.53 Inner Seal
  • 90313-48001 $2.90 Outer Seal
  • 90363-40020 $39.18 Bearing
  • 90301-88077 $2.52 O-Ring
  • 90520-36045 $1.12 Snap-Ring
  • 42423-20010 $10.99 Retainer Ring (you need two if you have ABS)
  • 43517-35010 $30.29 Rotor, Skid Control (ABS rotor, only if you have ABS)

That should be all the parts to do both seals. I have reused a bearing before but if you can afford a new one, might as well replace it too if you are going to press it off anyway. make sure you get the spacing of the abs rotor and the last retainer to go on the shaft right as the rotor teeth need to line up with the speed sensor hold on the housing and the retainer needs to seal on the inner seal, and if you don't get it pressed on far enough, as I did once, the retainer will bind on the lip inside the housing and drag when the wheel is turned. I had to pull the thing back off and put ir back in the press to push the retainer down another 32nd".

EDIT: Now, you say you have new shoes. Are they already installed or are you waiting until you do the seals? reason I'm asking is because if the leak is bad then the shoes are probably saturated and will need to be replaced, sounds like you already have them sitting in a box waiting for the seal job so you should be set but I just wanted to clarify.
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Lift: Suspension - F: Sway-A-Way Coilovers; R: OME Coils/Shocks
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Multimedia: Kenwood DNX5120 DVD/GPS/USB/iPod/SAT
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Old 06-29-2003, 06:59 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I was wondering, re: rear axle seal replacement for 3rd gen, has anyone noticed a connection with leaking seals/sythetic gear lube? In other words, are most replacements from dino gear oil or are many from sythetic gear oil?

Just wondering if it's smart to replace rear diff gear lube with synthetic on a 3rd gen?

Any thoughts?

Mick
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Old 06-29-2003, 07:02 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I would recommend having the dealer do it.

I did my own, then the right rear started leaking again. So I had the dealer do it the second time, just in case I did something wrong. Guess what, I didn't do anything wrong and they're leaking again. This time it will be on the dealer's nickel since Toy dealers guarrantee everything for a year after the repair. I know because I've already had the dealer replace the rear output shaft on the transfer case once on my nickel and twice on theirs.
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Old 07-19-2003, 06:56 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Hey Keisur,

Is that list of parts to replace all the stuff needed for one side or both? If only for one side, what are good things to buy double of in case I screw up? Also, if it is for only one side, are the part numbers the same for both sides?

Thanks,

Chris

P.S. Is there a write up anywhere on this process? I'd love to read it!
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Old 07-20-2003, 08:03 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by ravencr
Hey Keisur,

Is that list of parts to replace all the stuff needed for one side or both? If only for one side, what are good things to buy double of in case I screw up? Also, if it is for only one side, are the part numbers the same for both sides?

Thanks,

Chris

P.S. Is there a write up anywhere on this process? I'd love to read it!
that's for one side. I usually buy 3 inner seals just incase I mess one up while driving it into the housing. now I just buy one each time because I have 3 spares. be sure to replace your oring though, when you take it off you'll see that it no longer has a round x-section but it has a triagular one. they're cheap so I have two on hand, the extra actually came in handly when the drive belt/spring on my 60's 8mm film projector broke so I used one of the orings as a drive belt, perfect size and we got to watch our 70's christmas home movies, .
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Lift: Suspension - F: Sway-A-Way Coilovers; R: OME Coils/Shocks
Body - 2" HDPE Pucks w/ higher strength bolts
Recovery: TJM T15 Bull Bumper w/ Warn M8000 Winch
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Multimedia: Kenwood DNX5120 DVD/GPS/USB/iPod/SAT
Sound: Focal 165A1 Component Front w/ Focal 130CA1 Rear
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Old 07-20-2003, 08:28 AM   #8 (permalink)
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why yes, yes there is a write up, and an excelent one at that

here it is

http://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech/...m1_oilseal.htm
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Old 07-20-2003, 08:58 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Guys, that's awesome information! Where's the best place to buy the parts? I can get them from my local toyota shop for 25% over cost, because I work at a Nissan dealership. Would it be better to do that or buy it over the net from somewhere aroudn 20% over cost, from what I've seen?

Chris
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Old 07-20-2003, 09:10 AM   #10 (permalink)
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So what's the best brake fluid to buy? I guess I'll buy that Motive brake bleeder thing that Gadget recommends. Did you guys use it too?

Chris
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Old 07-20-2003, 03:10 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by L33T35T 4Runner
why yes, yes there is a write up, and an excelent one at that

here it is

http://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech/...m1_oilseal.htm
That's only for the inner seal, the outer seal requires alot more elbow greez and alot more time.
Try these:

http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/rearaxleseal/
-and-
http://128.83.80.200/taco/rwb3.html
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Lift: Suspension - F: Sway-A-Way Coilovers; R: OME Coils/Shocks
Body - 2" HDPE Pucks w/ higher strength bolts
Recovery: TJM T15 Bull Bumper w/ Warn M8000 Winch
Lighting: Lightforce Striker 170's
Multimedia: Kenwood DNX5120 DVD/GPS/USB/iPod/SAT
Sound: Focal 165A1 Component Front w/ Focal 130CA1 Rear
Infiniti Kappa Perfect 10.1 Sub
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Old 07-20-2003, 03:13 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Is there a write up for the inner and outer seal, that demonstrates the use of the partsthat you listed, Keisur? How do I know which seal it is, anyway, that's leaking?

Chris
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Old 07-20-2003, 03:19 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by ravencr
Is there a write up for the inner and outer seal, that demonstrates the use of the partsthat you listed, Keisur? How do I know which seal it is, anyway, that's leaking?

Chris

http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/rearaxleseal/
-and-
http://128.83.80.200/taco/rwb3.html
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Front: 4.88's w/ ARB Locker
Rear: 4.88's w/ ARB Locker
Lift: Suspension - F: Sway-A-Way Coilovers; R: OME Coils/Shocks
Body - 2" HDPE Pucks w/ higher strength bolts
Recovery: TJM T15 Bull Bumper w/ Warn M8000 Winch
Lighting: Lightforce Striker 170's
Multimedia: Kenwood DNX5120 DVD/GPS/USB/iPod/SAT
Sound: Focal 165A1 Component Front w/ Focal 130CA1 Rear
Infiniti Kappa Perfect 10.1 Sub
500W RMS amp for fronts and rears; 500W RMS amp for sub
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Old 07-20-2003, 03:25 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by ravencr
Is there a write up for the inner and outer seal, that demonstrates the use of the partsthat you listed, Keisur? How do I know which seal it is, anyway, that's leaking?

Chris
if there's grease inside the drum, it's both. if there's is only grease leaking out between the bearing flange and the housing flange, which is unlikely, it's the inner seal and the oring. the oring should prevent this sort of leaking and the fluid will most likely seep past the outer and into the brake drum and spit all over the brakes and saturate them. what I did was pull everything apart and even knocked the studs out and replaced the paper gasket between the deflector and the axle flange because it was saturated too and I didn't want the grease coming out of that and getting on the shoes. one hit and the studs popped out with a ballpean hammer. then I used a couple washers and an old lug nut and the impact wrench to reinstall the studs. you could do that with a regular socket wrench but since I had air tools... I actually forgot to buy a new gasket so I traced to old one onto a nike shoe box lid and cut it out and used it as the gasket. seems to have worked .
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Rear: 4.88's w/ ARB Locker
Lift: Suspension - F: Sway-A-Way Coilovers; R: OME Coils/Shocks
Body - 2" HDPE Pucks w/ higher strength bolts
Recovery: TJM T15 Bull Bumper w/ Warn M8000 Winch
Lighting: Lightforce Striker 170's
Multimedia: Kenwood DNX5120 DVD/GPS/USB/iPod/SAT
Sound: Focal 165A1 Component Front w/ Focal 130CA1 Rear
Infiniti Kappa Perfect 10.1 Sub
500W RMS amp for fronts and rears; 500W RMS amp for sub
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1400 Watt Power Inverter
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Old 07-20-2003, 03:27 PM   #15 (permalink)
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oh yea, I didn't have any SST's either. I went to homodepot and found stuff that would work and made my own SST's. Tomorrow I can take pics of the parts I got to use as my own SST's if you want.
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Lift: Suspension - F: Sway-A-Way Coilovers; R: OME Coils/Shocks
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Recovery: TJM T15 Bull Bumper w/ Warn M8000 Winch
Lighting: Lightforce Striker 170's
Multimedia: Kenwood DNX5120 DVD/GPS/USB/iPod/SAT
Sound: Focal 165A1 Component Front w/ Focal 130CA1 Rear
Infiniti Kappa Perfect 10.1 Sub
500W RMS amp for fronts and rears; 500W RMS amp for sub
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Old 07-20-2003, 03:30 PM   #16 (permalink)
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What's the SST's?

Chris

Thanks for the links!
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Old 07-20-2003, 06:11 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by ravencr
What's the SST's?

Chris

Thanks for the links!
Special Service Tools. Basically they are weird looking tools that are meant for one thing. In the links they talk about a couple of them but home depot has things that do the same thing, it's just they are meant for running conduit and plumbing stuff. I'll get the camera tomorrow and I have an extra axle and retainers and bearing cup that I can load up on the press and snap a photo of it all to sort of show you the set up.
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Lift: Suspension - F: Sway-A-Way Coilovers; R: OME Coils/Shocks
Body - 2" HDPE Pucks w/ higher strength bolts
Recovery: TJM T15 Bull Bumper w/ Warn M8000 Winch
Lighting: Lightforce Striker 170's
Multimedia: Kenwood DNX5120 DVD/GPS/USB/iPod/SAT
Sound: Focal 165A1 Component Front w/ Focal 130CA1 Rear
Infiniti Kappa Perfect 10.1 Sub
500W RMS amp for fronts and rears; 500W RMS amp for sub
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Old 07-20-2003, 07:09 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Sweet man! Thanks for all the help on this. You've been great!

Chris
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Old 07-21-2003, 06:55 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Hey Keisur,

Where's you buy the parts in your list? Toyota is a rip as usual. I can get them for 25% over cost, but where you get yours so cheap?

Chris
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Old 07-21-2003, 11:02 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by ravencr
Hey Keisur,

Where's you buy the parts in your list? Toyota is a rip as usual. I can get them for 25% over cost, but where you get yours so cheap?

Chris
I got mine from Jesse Sierra at Stirling McCall. he gave me internet pricing and let come pick up the parts since I'm only 10 miles away. none of the closer stealers would do that because most are greedy. I don't particularily care for the guy though because I order some fasteners for my hood protector that I broke when I took it off to wax last year and he was supposed to have them drop shipped to me. well, I've emailed, called, gone over there, he's never in and 11 months later I still don't have my fasteners. not worth the $2 they cost to make a trip over there but with business practices like he has I won't ever order anything from him again. I order everything from the online oem parts dealers now like 1sttoyotaparts and toyotaparts4u or whatever that is. the prices are about the same and I don't pay tax, just shipping.
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Rear: 4.88's w/ ARB Locker
Lift: Suspension - F: Sway-A-Way Coilovers; R: OME Coils/Shocks
Body - 2" HDPE Pucks w/ higher strength bolts
Recovery: TJM T15 Bull Bumper w/ Warn M8000 Winch
Lighting: Lightforce Striker 170's
Multimedia: Kenwood DNX5120 DVD/GPS/USB/iPod/SAT
Sound: Focal 165A1 Component Front w/ Focal 130CA1 Rear
Infiniti Kappa Perfect 10.1 Sub
500W RMS amp for fronts and rears; 500W RMS amp for sub
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Old 07-21-2003, 12:00 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Thanks for the info. That's who I bought my S/C from. No problems then, but I have had problems since then. Probably check out those places you mentioned. Thanks,

Chris
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Old 07-22-2003, 01:47 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Well, I've decided to have my local import shop do the rear seal and bearing, because I just don't have the time this week to get it done before my vacation this Sunday. He's only going to charge $82.69 for labor, and I've alreadybought all the parts.

Chris
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Old 07-22-2003, 02:50 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by ravencr
Well, I've decided to have my local import shop do the rear seal and bearing, because I just don't have the time this week to get it done before my vacation this Sunday. He's only going to charge $82.69 for labor, and I've alreadybought all the parts.

Chris
that's not a bad price dude. did you buy a new ABS rotor just in case he mangles the original one while pulling it off? Also, that gives you somebody to go back to if it still leaks, that's a plus in itself. did you have a press? I was wondering how you planned on pressing everything back on. make sure they clean that gasket between the dust shield and the axle flange real good so there isn't any gear oil left in it. let me know if you need anymore info.
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Front: 4.88's w/ ARB Locker
Rear: 4.88's w/ ARB Locker
Lift: Suspension - F: Sway-A-Way Coilovers; R: OME Coils/Shocks
Body - 2" HDPE Pucks w/ higher strength bolts
Recovery: TJM T15 Bull Bumper w/ Warn M8000 Winch
Lighting: Lightforce Striker 170's
Multimedia: Kenwood DNX5120 DVD/GPS/USB/iPod/SAT
Sound: Focal 165A1 Component Front w/ Focal 130CA1 Rear
Infiniti Kappa Perfect 10.1 Sub
500W RMS amp for fronts and rears; 500W RMS amp for sub
Power: Optima Blue Top
1400 Watt Power Inverter
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Old 07-22-2003, 02:57 PM   #24 (permalink)
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I work at a Nissan Dealership so I was going to use their press, but when this guy told me that's all he was going to charge, I had to do it that way instead. I bought all the part numbers you had mentioned, so he'll have it all to put back in. I really do appreciate the help.

Chris
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Old 07-22-2003, 02:57 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
I was wondering, re: rear axle seal replacement for 3rd gen, has anyone noticed a connection with leaking seals/sythetic gear lube? In other words, are most replacements from dino gear oil or are many from sythetic gear oil?

Yes - this happened to me....my drivers side seal went approximately 400 miles after replacing the dino with synthetics- I replaced the seals and haven't had a prob yet (approx 300mi on new seals) I believe this follows the rule of dino oils not having a uniform consistency and synthetics being 'slicker' ....I just went wheeling up a mountain trail that didn't go below 110* all the way up (that's the desert for ya) and it may have contributed to the seal failing.

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