Ritzy4Runner

iTrader: (1)

Some of you know that I am doing an external transmission cooler. I am installing temoerature monitoring gauges but I can not afford to install all electric gauges. I have gotten everything I need to install the gagues, fittings and such but the issue I have is getting the leads for the mechnical gauges to the rubber lines in order to install the brass fittings that will accept the probes.

I am trying to find the best location to route the sensor lines throught the fire wall. I was going to route them through just above the accelerator as there is a large rubber plug. going this route does not provide enough length to reach the passenger side where the transmission lines are located. I need some help in trying to figure out the next best route. I removed the center console at the shifter but can not seem to find a place to route the lines. The only boot is at the shifter for the 4x4 shifter but I don't wish to cut through that boot as it is the seal to keep the elements out of the cab at this location.

The hole I will need to drill is 3/4" to allow for the probe sensor sealing nut to pass. I need recommendatins on where if any I should drill the hole, how to plug the hole once the line is through and the best path to then rout the lines. they ar bendable and have a spr4ing outer shield but I don't wish to bend them too sharpely. I have noted a rubber square looking plug from underneath near the transmission but I can not identify where it is located in the cab area near the shifter. Any help here is greatly appriecated. I need to get these gauges installed this weekend as I am also needing to replace the rear axle seals and the brakes. Thanks to everyone for your help and inputs, all will be evaluated. I will be documenting all steps so feel free to contribute. Thanks

Ritzy4Runner

iTrader: (1)

mt_goat

If you drill a new hole use a rubber grommet to protect the lines from the sharp edges. I get them at Ace hardware, its best to get the grommet first so you can drill a hole the right size for it.

When possible I go through existing holes that usually already have a grommet, like AC lines, engine wiring harness, steering shaft holes...etc.

Where are you mounting the gauge?

Ritzy4Runner

iTrader: (1)

I mounted the gauges below the ashtray/12vdc outlet in the radio bezel.


I have been looking at the best place to do just what you mentioned but also was trying to find the easiest location to route the lines without having to cut another hole. I'm thinking that I may have to do the new hole rout. I know that I have to drill a 3/4" hole as that is the size of the snesor hold down fitting. I can't seem to find another hole already in the firewall. There are two boots in the tranny shift area, one you can see at the 4 wheel selector but I can not see it under the truck. Another under the truck and its a square looking boot above the tranny (looking from underneath) but you can not see it in the cab.

pattycakes77

iTrader: (2)

I know money is tight for just about everyone these days, but I would just save up for a couple months more and get the electric gauges. It was so simple to route the wiring and hook them up, I did drill one hole in the Driver's side firewall and used the grommet as suggested by mt goat, and best of all I don't have to worry about any fluid inside the cabin to potentially leak or create excess heat behind the dash. And if I ever have to disconnect the gauges for some reason, it's as easy as unhooking an electrical connector. Good luck Ritzy, sorry I wasn't any help.

Ritzy4Runner

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I wanted to go the electric route but I need to get thisdone for the trip. I might replace them later but I think I may have found the answer. It was a little more involved but the more I kept looking for another way forward like MtGoat suggested the more I started looking for another way to get the hole in the tranny hump.

Was looking like the only real option was going to be drill a hole ... but I need a 3/4" drill bit,they are kinda expensive. Found another possible as there was another rubber plug on the passenger side aboput 1/2 down the firewall in the engine bay but it had this nipple looking piece. So I took out part of the passenger side dash and it ends up like no way to get through unless I remove the freaking heater and fan, dopn't think so! Well the rubber grommet I found is actually the drain for the heater well. Guess that just ruled that out!

Well I think I may have found it. Between the shifter and a control box of some sorts (sorry) I noted the ABS sensor box. I disconnected it and disconnected a couple of connectors and I found the top of that square boot I could see from underneath but not from the cab. Pushed a very small screw driver though and sure enough, there it was. I then punched a couple more times and that made a place to push my sensors through. I have routed the lines down along the tranny and then have slipped some split sleeve over the lines. Routing them along the tranny hard lines to the soft lines.

Getting ready to cut the lines and install the "T" for each gauge. I have been taking pics along the way so after I get it all sorted out I'll post up. Thanks for the help guys and the encouragement. I always defer here to get suggestions and help. Sometimes when you are right on top of the project you sometimes can't see the simple solution, another opinion helps to get you to see another veiw point and then discover the answer.


I should have enough line right now that I will still be able to remove the bezel and completely clear the console if I need to work on it. I roger the "hot liquid" in the cab, but even though my temp gauges are "mechanical" they are hard lines that sense temp and feedback a signal to the gauge. No fluid involed. I get to deal with that issue with the oil line. But like you said Pattycakes, I think I may save up for that one and then install an electrical oil pressure gauge.

Ritzy4Runner

iTrader: (1)

Cut the lines and installed the "T" fittings. There was some leakage from the lines but very minimal. Ended up removing about 2 inches of each of the stock hose to install the two "T" fittings. Oriented them to be pointing towards the frame so the lines are parallel with the frame and not getting kinked. Checked my transmission fluid level after the install of the "T"s but the level shows as being in the HOT zone even though the truck is stone cold.

The location for the lines and gauges has worked out perfectly. Routing used most of the line but have enough so that if I need to remove the bezel I will have some slack to get it fully out to work on it. Ty-wrapped the gauge lines to the tranny lines at the transmission outlet/inlet so they don't interfer with the unions of the hard lines then just followed the hard lines out to the soft llines. Made for ease in fitting the T into each line. Can't wait to test them out for temp. Will update with temperature and differential temperature information as soon as I can get the truck back together. Pretty much at a stand still until I get the issue with the rear wheel bearing resolved. Pics will be up shortly, having computer issues ... if its not one thing its another, gotta love technolgy.

kball

Hey Ritzy,

Do you have pics of your finished setup yet? I bought that same gauge and I'm still on the fence as to whether I want to install it or buy an electric gauge.

thanks!

Ritzy4Runner

iTrader: (1)

I do have then installed. Had some issues with the gauges being able to sense the temp but noted that today after driving the truck for aobut 20 minutes I noticed that the tranny gauges were in fact reading temperature. It appears I am getting enought flow but maybe not as much as I probably should, but for right now I have gauges. I think I may have hooked up the wires for the lighting incorrectly as my dimmer is not working and the dash lights are on "bright" and will not adjust. Here is the gauges installed

kball

This is something I was wondering about as well. I know everyone says to put the sensor in a "T" and not use the pan because the temps are too low there but the instructions for the gauge specifically say not to put the sensor in a "T". They suggest as all other manufacturers I would suppose to put it in the pan so it has good flow all around it. I really think the "T" will work but it may take a bit longer to heat up. Then again if it's going to end up reading low because of the "low flow", what's the difference between this or putting it in the pan where it will read more efficiently but cooler fluid?

Ritzy4Runner

iTrader: (1)

I think you may be right on that but the thing here is I wanted to read the temp of the tranny fluid LEAVING the transmission going to the cooler. Putting one in the pan would be great for reading temp after it leaves the cooler and would be more temp sensitive.

Bottom line here is getting acurate readings. Hot fluid running through the T will heat it up as well and some thermal transfer will occur so right now I am noticing that the temp has been running upwards of 190 degrees. Outlet of the cooler is about 5 degrees cooler on average but for themost part is anywhere from 0 - 10 degrees lower. I will try to monitor and record some of the reading during my trip and note outside air temp, running speed and terrain (I-5 is pretty flat in California). Mountain passes should be the 'tale of the tape' when the truck will downshift on occasion. Either way I am leaning towards getting digital electric gauges, I just think they are kewl!